[Z06] Testing for battery drain
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
From: Thompson Falls MT
Testing for battery drain
I would like to test my car to see if it's pulling more juice while just sitting there than it's supposed to. I have a multi-meter but never got around to learning how to use it. Is there a relatively easy instruction set on how to test my car's sitting electrical drain? TIA
Pro
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 710
Likes: 1
From: Fremont (Livin' On The Fault Line!) CA
I came across this thread on the "other forum"; it provides an excellent illustration on how to hook up a meter to check for battery drain:
Battery Dies after 1.5 weeks in storage (see the 4th post down).
Per this diagram, the draw should not exceed 100 mA.
Larry
Battery Dies after 1.5 weeks in storage (see the 4th post down).
Per this diagram, the draw should not exceed 100 mA.
Larry
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Originally Posted by LarryW
Per this diagram, the draw should not exceed 100 mA.
Do a search on the other site for "parasitic current" and you'll find some super detailed posts about how I tested mine. You have to wait about 20 minutes to let all the computers "go to sleep" before the parasitic drain goes down to 20 mA.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
From: Thompson Falls MT
Originally Posted by LarryW
I came across this thread on the "other forum"; it provides an excellent illustration on how to hook up a meter to check for battery drain:
Battery Dies after 1.5 weeks in storage (see the 4th post down).
Per this diagram, the draw should not exceed 100 mA.
Larry
Battery Dies after 1.5 weeks in storage (see the 4th post down).
Per this diagram, the draw should not exceed 100 mA.
LarryThanks much for all the help. This forum is
!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
From: Thompson Falls MT
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
The parasitic battery current should be about 20 mA on the C5 Vette.
Do a search on the other site for "parasitic current" and you'll find some super detailed posts about how I tested mine. You have to wait about 20 minutes to let all the computers "go to sleep" before the parasitic drain goes down to 20 mA.
Do a search on the other site for "parasitic current" and you'll find some super detailed posts about how I tested mine. You have to wait about 20 minutes to let all the computers "go to sleep" before the parasitic drain goes down to 20 mA.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
From: Thompson Falls MT
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
The parasitic battery current should be about 20 mA on the C5 Vette.
Do a search on the other site for "parasitic current" and you'll find some super detailed posts about how I tested mine. You have to wait about 20 minutes to let all the computers "go to sleep" before the parasitic drain goes down to 20 mA.
Do a search on the other site for "parasitic current" and you'll find some super detailed posts about how I tested mine. You have to wait about 20 minutes to let all the computers "go to sleep" before the parasitic drain goes down to 20 mA.
XXXXXXXXXXXX
I did my own tests and here's my results. All stock '03 Z06
Everything functional - the hood was left up the entire time.
Time 0:00 Hood up and Doors Open - 6.8A
As soon as door closed - 5.40 A
+ 45 sec - 2.8 A hood light still on
+ 50 sec - 1.8 A hood light still on
+ 60 Sec - 1.1 A hood light still on
+ 10.5 Min - .08 A hood light goes off
+ 13 Min - 0.01/.02 A Everything apparently off
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Originally Posted by TAC
I added my test results to your post on Z06vette.com. I'll add them here as well. Looks like my car is right on target with a final drain of .01-.02 A loss. Thats 10-20 mA, right?
XXXXXXXXXXXX
I did my own tests and here's my results. All stock '03 Z06
Everything functional - the hood was left up the entire time.
Time 0:00 Hood up and Doors Open - 6.8A
As soon as door closed - 5.40 A
+ 45 sec - 2.8 A hood light still on
+ 50 sec - 1.8 A hood light still on
+ 60 Sec - 1.1 A hood light still on
+ 10.5 Min - .08 A hood light goes off
+ 13 Min - 0.01/.02 A Everything apparently off
XXXXXXXXXXXX
I did my own tests and here's my results. All stock '03 Z06
Everything functional - the hood was left up the entire time.
Time 0:00 Hood up and Doors Open - 6.8A
As soon as door closed - 5.40 A
+ 45 sec - 2.8 A hood light still on
+ 50 sec - 1.8 A hood light still on
+ 60 Sec - 1.1 A hood light still on
+ 10.5 Min - .08 A hood light goes off
+ 13 Min - 0.01/.02 A Everything apparently off
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Originally Posted by TAC
I charged the Optima most the day yesterday on the bench. It read 13.42V at 10pm and by 5am today it was at 11.73V. I guess that shows the battery is bad.
I had two Optimas that were bad and got both replaced under warranty. At lest Optima has a decent warranty on them.
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Great discussion here!
So, I have -99 C5.
I have second optima battery now in 9 months, first yellow lasted 2 months.
Now after sitting the car about 1 week my present red optima is all dead.
I checked my battery drainage too:
After the alarm goes on its's 4 amp for few seconds, drops down to 0.8 amps. My only concern is why it only drops down to 0.2 amp(200 mA). I have removed all the fuses and it's still 0.2 A.
This will drain my model 75/25 red optima battery as calculeted :
44 A/0.2 Ah= 220hours=9.1 days.
(Anyway I think the cranking ability is reduced a lot before all the charge is gone)
PS.
I just realized how low AMP/hours this optima battery has.
I'm used to see 60A/h on most cars.
Anyway I think I need to get third battery?!
So, I have -99 C5.
I have second optima battery now in 9 months, first yellow lasted 2 months.
Now after sitting the car about 1 week my present red optima is all dead.
I checked my battery drainage too:
After the alarm goes on its's 4 amp for few seconds, drops down to 0.8 amps. My only concern is why it only drops down to 0.2 amp(200 mA). I have removed all the fuses and it's still 0.2 A.
This will drain my model 75/25 red optima battery as calculeted :
44 A/0.2 Ah= 220hours=9.1 days.
(Anyway I think the cranking ability is reduced a lot before all the charge is gone)
PS.
I just realized how low AMP/hours this optima battery has.
I'm used to see 60A/h on most cars.
Anyway I think I need to get third battery?!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Originally Posted by zalama
Great discussion here!
I checked my battery drainage too:
After the alarm goes on its's 4 amp for few seconds, drops down to 0.8 amps. My only concern is why it only drops down to 0.2 amp (200 mA). I have removed all the fuses and it's still 0.2 A.
I checked my battery drainage too:
After the alarm goes on its's 4 amp for few seconds, drops down to 0.8 amps. My only concern is why it only drops down to 0.2 amp (200 mA). I have removed all the fuses and it's still 0.2 A.
Maybe you have an after market alarm?
Update -- found my thread on the other site. Look at post #4, Item C):
http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69875
"C) I set the alarm and after about 10 minutes the current draw on the battery went all the way down to the same 18 mA (key out of ignition) level. Apparently, once the alarm is set the computer must go to sleep, but has the ability to sense if there is any current draw on the system, which would then wake it up and set off the alarm. So, arming the alarm in the garage will not cause more drain on the battery ... something I wouldn't have expected, but good to know."
Last edited by ZeeOSix; Oct 15, 2006 at 09:29 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,475
Likes: 97
From: KY/TN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16
My redtop will drop to 11.7 a few hours after sitting, and down to 10.1 after a day or two. The car reads 14.1 while charging.
After reading this thread, I finally decided to check for parasitic loss.
I came up with 1.5A immediately, and stayed there. I decided to double check it again and then it measured 1.5A and after a few seconds it dropped to .8A then a few seconds later it dropped to .01A
What relay is it that I hear when I connect the multimeter leads? It is located in the right front somewhere. Is it possible that this relay is sticking and allowing a circuit to stay closed, or is my redtop about to die?
After reading this thread, I finally decided to check for parasitic loss.
I came up with 1.5A immediately, and stayed there. I decided to double check it again and then it measured 1.5A and after a few seconds it dropped to .8A then a few seconds later it dropped to .01A
What relay is it that I hear when I connect the multimeter leads? It is located in the right front somewhere. Is it possible that this relay is sticking and allowing a circuit to stay closed, or is my redtop about to die?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Originally Posted by erick_e
What relay is it that I hear when I connect the multimeter leads? It is located in the right front somewhere. Is it possible that this relay is sticking and allowing a circuit to stay closed, or is my redtop about to die?
If after say 30 minutes the current draw is still much higher than this, then there is definitely a problem.
Optima Redtops are notorious for going bad ... so if the parasitic current draw is normal it has to be the battery.
3rd Gear
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Sorry about confusing info. So when alarm goes on, amps jump very quickly to over 10 amps(Can't really see exact value with digital meter) and then drops to about 0.8, then after few seconds, drop to 0.2 amps.
I waited few minutes and it stays at 0.2 Amps. I guess I need to wait little longer.
I allso hear "click" somewhere from head light motor everytime battery is connected, and amps flash to 4.0 and go soon back 0.2 amps.
This sound is not the light motor because I removed light connectors and still hear that click.
There must be something under the headlight. (horn?)
I waited few minutes and it stays at 0.2 Amps. I guess I need to wait little longer.
I allso hear "click" somewhere from head light motor everytime battery is connected, and amps flash to 4.0 and go soon back 0.2 amps.
This sound is not the light motor because I removed light connectors and still hear that click.
There must be something under the headlight. (horn?)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 161
From: PNW
Originally Posted by zalama
Sorry about confusing info. So when alarm goes on, amps jump very quickly to over 10 amps(Can't really see exact value with digital meter) and then drops to about 0.8, then after few seconds, drop to 0.2 amps.
I waited few minutes and it stays at 0.2 Amps. I guess I need to wait little longer.
I waited few minutes and it stays at 0.2 Amps. I guess I need to wait little longer.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 983
Likes: 23
From: Northeast Ohio
TAC,
There's an easy way to measure your current on the 400 ma scale.
So once you're disconnected the battery, and have the meter hooked up, turn the car on, wait until the current drops, then short the 2 leads on the meter out (so power doesn't go off), with the meter shorted, switch to 400 ma, then unshort the meter, it's on 400 ma scale, and the power never got disconnected so the alarm doesn't cycle.
BTW, my car ran right about 18ma.
Oh, down't forget your radar detectors don't shut off.
And remember current meters go in series, and you can short them, Volt meters go across the voltage, and shorting the leads would be a bad thing.
There's an easy way to measure your current on the 400 ma scale.
So once you're disconnected the battery, and have the meter hooked up, turn the car on, wait until the current drops, then short the 2 leads on the meter out (so power doesn't go off), with the meter shorted, switch to 400 ma, then unshort the meter, it's on 400 ma scale, and the power never got disconnected so the alarm doesn't cycle.
BTW, my car ran right about 18ma.
Oh, down't forget your radar detectors don't shut off.
And remember current meters go in series, and you can short them, Volt meters go across the voltage, and shorting the leads would be a bad thing.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,797
Likes: 0
From: Thompson Falls MT
Originally Posted by QKSLVRZ
TAC,
There's an easy way to measure your current on the 400 ma scale.
So once you're disconnected the battery, and have the meter hooked up, turn the car on, wait until the current drops, then short the 2 leads on the meter out (so power doesn't go off), with the meter shorted, switch to 400 ma, then unshort the meter, it's on 400 ma scale, and the power never got disconnected so the alarm doesn't cycle.
BTW, my car ran right about 18ma.
Oh, down't forget your radar detectors don't shut off.
And remember current meters go in series, and you can short them, Volt meters go across the voltage, and shorting the leads would be a bad thing.
There's an easy way to measure your current on the 400 ma scale.
So once you're disconnected the battery, and have the meter hooked up, turn the car on, wait until the current drops, then short the 2 leads on the meter out (so power doesn't go off), with the meter shorted, switch to 400 ma, then unshort the meter, it's on 400 ma scale, and the power never got disconnected so the alarm doesn't cycle.
BTW, my car ran right about 18ma.
Oh, down't forget your radar detectors don't shut off.
And remember current meters go in series, and you can short them, Volt meters go across the voltage, and shorting the leads would be a bad thing.
I was going to try simply attaching the negative cable back to the battery with my meter probes intact, retaining power in it's current condition (no pun intended). Then I could move the lead to the 400mA port and switch the meter to the 400mA setting and then remove the negative cable back out of the battery. I chickened out, figuring I would blow up something.
