Winter storage C-5
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Joined: Mar 2005
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Winter storage C-5
I have a question for the forum. Very shortly I have to put my twins ( my 75 and 78 ) away for the winter. They are no problem as I have been doing that for approx a dozen years. I have always wanted a C 5 and finally found what I wanted this past August. ( A Pewter Convt with black top and Interior) " Very happy" Oct 1st we took it 5600 kms (3000+ miles across Canada thru the mountains in British Columbia and back. Awesome ride. Now the question. With all these power options and computer what should one do for the winter. I will be stored in a garage but not heated. I have heard that even though everything is turned off, the computer? still draws from the battery. At this moment my plan is to leave battery all connected and simply start the car every couple of weeks. The car will not see the hwy til April 1 Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated./
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 333
Likes: 1
From: Mendota Heights MN
If you truly do not intend to drive it until spring, disconnect the battery and walk away. You don't do the car any good by starting it every couple of weeks -- it won't get it hot enough to evaporate the condensation out of the exhaust and crankcase unless you drive it to get it fully warmed up.
Put it to sleep and wait til spring.
Put it to sleep and wait til spring.
Last edited by Cart99; Oct 23, 2006 at 11:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 6,101
Likes: 44
From: ABQ NM
Cruise-In II Veteran
Either disconnect the battery entirely or get a maintenance charger and hook it up (the kind that turns itself off and on automatically upon reaching a certain voltage - NOT a continuous trickle charger). Your proposed start-up procedure is, IMO, worse than just letting the car sit.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 235
From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by Cart99
If you truly do not intend to drive it until spring, disconnect the battery and walk away. You don't do the car any good by starting it every couple of weeks -- it won't get it hot enough to evaporate the condensation out of the exhaust and crankcase unless you drive it to get it fully warmed up.
Put it to sleep and wait til spring.
Put it to sleep and wait til spring.
Pull the cables and wait for spring. You'll miss one two week start up cycle and it will be dead anyway.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
If you have power where you store it, buy a battery float charger and leave it connected all winter.
www.harborfreight.com
AUTOMATIC BATTERY FLOAT CHARGER
Skip the aggravation of a jump-start by keeping your vehicle's battery fully charged. Use on 12V batteries while in storage or during cold weather. The floating circuit maintains a full charge without overcharging. Includes automatic safety shut off.
Leads: 10 ft. overall length
ITEM 42292-1VGA
$7.49
Are you in Canada? ... the Manstore (aka CTC) probably has one, but at the price even with freight and duty the harobr freight option is hard to beat...
I have used one for the last 3 seasons on my 2 Vettes
and best of all no Corvette tax
www.harborfreight.com
AUTOMATIC BATTERY FLOAT CHARGER
Skip the aggravation of a jump-start by keeping your vehicle's battery fully charged. Use on 12V batteries while in storage or during cold weather. The floating circuit maintains a full charge without overcharging. Includes automatic safety shut off.
Leads: 10 ft. overall length
ITEM 42292-1VGA
$7.49
Are you in Canada? ... the Manstore (aka CTC) probably has one, but at the price even with freight and duty the harobr freight option is hard to beat...
I have used one for the last 3 seasons on my 2 Vettes
and best of all no Corvette tax
Administrator
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 368,319
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From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Here's what I do to mine for winter storage.
- Put a bottle of Sta-Bil in the gas.
- Change oil and filter.
- Put a piece of old carpet under each tire and inflate tires to proper pressure.
- Hook up a Battery Tender Plus to keep the battery in good shape.
- Put car cover on the car.
That's about it and it does just fine.
- Put a bottle of Sta-Bil in the gas.
- Change oil and filter.
- Put a piece of old carpet under each tire and inflate tires to proper pressure.
- Hook up a Battery Tender Plus to keep the battery in good shape.
- Put car cover on the car.
That's about it and it does just fine.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,357
Likes: 1,592
From: Western NY
As usual, I disagree with EVERYONE about the "don't start" theory. I do not like the idea of oil not circulating through the engine, and moistening all of the gaskets and seals, as well as some of the valve springs sitting under tension while holding some of the valves open FOR 3-4 MONTHS, therefore I do start the car every 2-3 weeks and let it come up to operating temperature.
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 233
Likes: 1
From: Port Washington Wi.
Another thing to think about is your tires. I called Goodyear last winter and they said that the car should be lifted off the tires or simply move the care a few inches every couple weeks so the tires are not sitting on the same spot for serveral months. I would just give the car a roll forward a foot or so and then back a few weeks later.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,995
Likes: 61
From: Fort Wayne IN
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
As usual, I disagree with EVERYONE about the "don't start" theory. I do not like the idea of oil not circulating through the engine, and moistening all of the gaskets and seals, as well as some of the valve springs sitting under tension while holding some of the valves open FOR 3-4 MONTHS, therefore I do start the car every 2-3 weeks and let it come up to operating temperature.
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,996
Likes: 77
From: Louisville KY
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
As usual, I disagree with EVERYONE about the "don't start" theory. I do not like the idea of oil not circulating through the engine, and moistening all of the gaskets and seals, as well as some of the valve springs sitting under tension while holding some of the valves open FOR 3-4 MONTHS, therefore I do start the car every 2-3 weeks and let it come up to operating temperature.
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
I have a 68 Camaro with 208K on it. It is my show car. It is never driven if there is a could in the sky. I have for the last 20 years of its life, started it in the winter and let it run until it gets extremely hot. Obviously it does not have a computer, but I still discount the battery..I do that because there is always a drain on the battery and I want it to start without jumping it. The exhaust has not rusted out yet in 20 years.
I love my Camaro, it was my first car and I am the only owner of it. I would never do something to it that I feel would harm it. My 03 vette is a much better car than the Camaro, now if the Camaro can handle this proceedure, then vettes can handle it even better. Yes I know flame on, but this is just my .02 worth.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 813
Likes: 0
From: Schenectady NY
Yup....many ways to skin the Vet....my search for ideas has resulted in:
- add gasoline additive
- wash. wax. etc and use car cover
- inflate tires to max pressure to compensate for colder temps.
- use mothballs under the vehicle as mouse deterrent
- use trickle charger, but I add a timer to the mix...so battery only charges couple of hours a day.
- tape/cover exhaust piles to keep critters out.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
From: Gilbert AZ
This what I've done for the past couple of years with no problems (plus I also did it for about 6 years with my '96 LT1 Z28):
- wash and wax
- change oil and filter
- stabilize gas and fill to max possible
- inflate tires to a hair over max
- keep battery connected
- cover it
Every 2 - 3 weeks (during the winter) I uncover her and fire her up and get it up to operating temp. I move her a few feet so that the tires are resting on a different spot (to avoid flat spots). I run thru the gears and "touch" all the controls (including the AC) to "get the parts moving"..
If the roads are dry then I'll take her out for a little spin around the block.
I just don't like the idea of not starting her up for months on end.
Just my .02..
- wash and wax
- change oil and filter
- stabilize gas and fill to max possible
- inflate tires to a hair over max
- keep battery connected
- cover it
Every 2 - 3 weeks (during the winter) I uncover her and fire her up and get it up to operating temp. I move her a few feet so that the tires are resting on a different spot (to avoid flat spots). I run thru the gears and "touch" all the controls (including the AC) to "get the parts moving"..
If the roads are dry then I'll take her out for a little spin around the block.
I just don't like the idea of not starting her up for months on end.
Just my .02..
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
From: Chesterfield MO
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
As usual, I disagree with EVERYONE about the "don't start" theory. I do not like the idea of oil not circulating through the engine, and moistening all of the gaskets and seals, as well as some of the valve springs sitting under tension while holding some of the valves open FOR 3-4 MONTHS, therefore I do start the car every 2-3 weeks and let it come up to operating temperature.
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 16,507
Likes: 84
From: Southern Indiana
Originally Posted by wamara
Either disconnect the battery entirely or get a maintenance charger and hook it up (the kind that turns itself off and on automatically upon reaching a certain voltage - NOT a continuous trickle charger). Your proposed start-up procedure is, IMO, worse than just letting the car sit.
Just go for a trickle-charger.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 35,760
Likes: 148
From: Northern NYs Adirondack Mountains,http://www.visitsacandaga.com.
Originally Posted by wisvette
Another thing to think about is your tires. I called Goodyear last winter and they said that the car should be lifted off the tires or simply move the care a few inches every couple weeks so the tires are not sitting on the same spot for serveral months. I would just give the car a roll forward a foot or so and then back a few weeks later.
Put in 40 lbs of pressur in your tires and all is well. Remember you loose 1 lb for each 10 degrees temp. goes down (assuming a unheated garage)
I have a unheated gararage & stored my Vert since 98 that way & now store my 05 Vert the same way.
I use a battery tender. Do not know what they cost now but paid $16 for it at Wally World Brand was Schumacher <S>
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
From: Perry Hall MD
Originally Posted by leadfoot4
As usual, I disagree with EVERYONE about the "don't start" theory. I do not like the idea of oil not circulating through the engine, and moistening all of the gaskets and seals, as well as some of the valve springs sitting under tension while holding some of the valves open FOR 3-4 MONTHS, therefore I do start the car every 2-3 weeks and let it come up to operating temperature.
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
I've been doing this for my winter stored cars since 1976, and haven't had ANY problems!
Personally I can't see NOT driving the car once every couple of weeks if the roads are dry. I even drove my motorcycles during the winter to keep things fresh.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 19,459
Likes: 48
From: Schaumburg IL
CI 7-8-9-11 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'10, '13
Starting it is fine, so long as you get it up to operating temp..I do this, but also take it out and drive it for about 20-30 min. I think just starting it and running it for 10min or so is what most people say is bad.
If you have a battery tender, that is ideal, then no worries on a dead battery.
If you have a battery tender, that is ideal, then no worries on a dead battery.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 35,760
Likes: 148
From: Northern NYs Adirondack Mountains,http://www.visitsacandaga.com.
Originally Posted by gredmer
Personally I can't see NOT driving the car once every couple of weeks if the roads are dry. I even drove my motorcycles during the winter to keep things fresh.
I understand what you are saying about dry. BUT!!!
In my neck of the woods they put SALT down by the tons. It’s rather corrosive (yes there are parts on a Vette affected by this) It’s also VERY slippery, and remains on the road a long time. after snow is cleared You could slip or slide a bit, but knowing Vette drivers are the best in the world
doubt that will happen.Other drivers not as good could and do slide into other cars. + their tires make a good sand/salt blasting quite probable.
It’s your car drive it as you want, mine is in the garage till April (till all snow is gone and a couple good rains wash all the salt and sand away).
