Bad water pump?
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Orlando FL
Originally Posted by gpracer1
Sounds like there is air trapped somewhere in the block/system. There is a thread somewhere on the proper way to fill it from the service manual.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
If it gets hotter as you're driving, that's a different story. Sounds like you're back to circulation again. Radiator gummed up inside, water pump, thermo sticking, hose collapsing? The above post about trapped air makes sense, too. Hope it's not a head gasket leak forcing hot air into your coolant and causing your back pressure you mentioned earlier.
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by matt24
From a cold start i let it idle. The coolant level was fairly low bc i think its a water pump and after changing the tstat i never topped it off.
The temp raises to 180, the fans kick in. The coolant level wants to overflow (remember it started low) and finally it hits over 240 and then i shut it off.
I tested the coolant temp and its temp is 190. The coolant tank is super hot as is the rad hoses. When i started it cold i left a temp gauge in the coolant tank and it never went about 130. I then put the cap on, let the car get to 240 and the slowly took the cap off and the temp was 190.
What i dont understand is if the temps are correct then why as the pressure builts the coolant wants to overflow? For coolant testing im using a brand new thermometer from wal mart. There are no leaks and im kind of lost now. Where is the temp sensor for the coolant? After waiting the temp is now 201 and if i pu the thermometer in the coolant take it says 165. Wouldnt the coolant near the engine where the temp sensor be be hotter the the coolant in the tank? But if i drive the car for even 20 seconds the temp plumets. Im starting to wonder about the temp sensor. Thanks!
The temp raises to 180, the fans kick in. The coolant level wants to overflow (remember it started low) and finally it hits over 240 and then i shut it off.
I tested the coolant temp and its temp is 190. The coolant tank is super hot as is the rad hoses. When i started it cold i left a temp gauge in the coolant tank and it never went about 130. I then put the cap on, let the car get to 240 and the slowly took the cap off and the temp was 190.
What i dont understand is if the temps are correct then why as the pressure builts the coolant wants to overflow? For coolant testing im using a brand new thermometer from wal mart. There are no leaks and im kind of lost now. Where is the temp sensor for the coolant? After waiting the temp is now 201 and if i pu the thermometer in the coolant take it says 165. Wouldnt the coolant near the engine where the temp sensor be be hotter the the coolant in the tank? But if i drive the car for even 20 seconds the temp plumets. Im starting to wonder about the temp sensor. Thanks!
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Last edited by LoneStarFRC; Oct 27, 2006 at 05:47 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Orlando FL
Originally Posted by 65GGvert
If it gets hotter as you're driving, that's a different story. Sounds like you're back to circulation again. Radiator gummed up inside, water pump, thermo sticking, hose collapsing? The above post about trapped air makes sense, too. Hope it's not a head gasket leak forcing hot air into your coolant and causing your back pressure you mentioned earlier.
Exactly! Hose is good, thermo is good and Rad is good. Im back to the pump again lol.
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From: Orlando FL
Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC
Immediate temp drop when driving goes to airflow through the radiator. When you say "it plummets", what does the temp plummet to? Have you for any reason removed the factory center air dam? Have you otherwise modified or changed the front screens, radiator shroud, etc?As I indicated earlier, the ECT is in the driver's side cylinder head above and in front of the #1 cylinder. If you do decide to change it, it's fairly easy. Just need to drain the coolant first.
TX89 from www.rockauto.com $9.52 + shipping
TX89 from www.rockauto.com $9.52 + shipping
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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Since you seem to have established a discrepancy between what the gauges are reading and the temp as measured, I would think that changing the temp sensor would definitely be worthwhile as a possible suspect. Cheap too. Have you checked (or had checked) the radiator cap too? It must be able to maintain the system pressure in order for the system not to boil at 212*. Each pound of pressure on the cap raises the boiling point about 3*. I relaced mine within the last year or so and the current cap spec'd by GM for our cars is a bit higher than the original; at least mine was.
Also, make sure to keep your coolant level full too. I even run mine above the full mark with no problems. Remember, the ambient temps you're seeing in FLA are definitely no worse than here in Texas, so operating in a hot climate is not a factor here. Keep us posted.
Also, make sure to keep your coolant level full too. I even run mine above the full mark with no problems. Remember, the ambient temps you're seeing in FLA are definitely no worse than here in Texas, so operating in a hot climate is not a factor here. Keep us posted.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 389
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From: Roswell GA
Good point about the radiator cap. I see you are from Canada, so I am not sure if you have Auto Zones. But if you do, they let you rent tools for free. One of which is a coolant pressure tester. You can check both the whole system as well as the cap.
For the debris, did you check between the radiator and condensor? The one on the front is the condsensor, that many people mistake for the radiator.
I would also check to make sure the coolant is the right color(if you have dex cool), I have seen the coolant turn to a brownish color when air got in the system. If it is that color it has been broken down and can clog up the radiator and other parts of system.
Last thing, I have flushed my system before and had a heck of a time to get out the air. I had to let it run for about 15 minutes till i saw no more bubbles come out.
Good luck, I know how annoying cooling problems can be.
For the debris, did you check between the radiator and condensor? The one on the front is the condsensor, that many people mistake for the radiator.
I would also check to make sure the coolant is the right color(if you have dex cool), I have seen the coolant turn to a brownish color when air got in the system. If it is that color it has been broken down and can clog up the radiator and other parts of system.
Last thing, I have flushed my system before and had a heck of a time to get out the air. I had to let it run for about 15 minutes till i saw no more bubbles come out.
Good luck, I know how annoying cooling problems can be.
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