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Replacing Front left turn signal bulb???

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Old Dec 23, 2014 | 02:29 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
4157 is the bulb# not 3157 there is a difference and I suspect 3157 bulbs are the ones melting the fixtures.
I just replaced both of mine about a week ago...4157LL is what I put in, as this is what was called for. ( LL = Long Life )

I did have the pleasure of using a life so it made it easy. My pleasure soon turned to horror when I found 2 very rusted brake lines in the rear.
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 04:55 PM
  #42  
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Default Turn signal bulb problem

I tried your method on my passenger side front turn signal bulb, but couldn't locate the bulb holder. Worse still my hand was stuck in the vent opening for a few minutes before I finally wiggled it free. Is there any difference from drivers side to passengers side?


Originally Posted by chevyvette1
my drivers side goes out all the time, I need a new light, I use to change them the way SPIVET does, but the fastest way for me to change the bulb is to push the brake air duct in a little and then push it down out the way, then just reach your hand in through there, now it takes me litterally 1 to 2 minutes, it's real easy Ozzie

here you go I just went out and took a few pics to show what I do, you can also see how many times the bulb actually exploded, stuck inside the light. The plus side to doing it this way is once you unscrew socket, there is enough wire to pull out the duct and change bulb with 2 hands.
Before.............



with brake duct down............



replacing bulb.................

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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 05:25 PM
  #43  
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Both sides are the same. I just changed my bulbs out to LED's on the weekend. The bulb is vertically mounted. If you're changing out the drivers side use your left hand to remove it. My hand BARELY fit, but I managed to change the bulbs no problem. Hope this helps
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Old Mar 30, 2015 | 05:53 PM
  #44  
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 02:22 AM
  #45  
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In this day and age I dont know why anyone would replace a TS bulb with a halogen bulb. Its not the "life" of the bulb that is the problem, its the temp. If your housings arent melted by now...they will eventually be, and at that point, no matter what type of halogen bulb you put in, its gonna go when any water hits it. If they re not melted now....LEDs wil prevent that from happening, and even if they are...LEDs will deal with a drop of water better. the running lights are a no brainer as they are always on.....the TS will blink faster until you put the TS bypass in (takes ten minutes with a beer in one hand) and if you dont get around to the bypass, you wont be hurting anything....just flashing faster.
Just an opinion.
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Old Mar 31, 2015 | 05:58 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by SPIVET
Didn't notice this when I changed mine...hmmm...maybe I grabbed it just right? I'll have to be more observant next time.
Definitely. First time I changed my bulb I had hell getting it out because I didn't know there was a tab and I couldn't feel it. Ended up breaking the slot the bulb sits in. Ended up getting new blinker housing assemblies later anyway so it didn't really matter, but bottom line be careful. A lot of that plastic can be old and brittle.
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Old Dec 3, 2017 | 11:18 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by MCVetteLs6
im a 21 year old male with skinny arms.. and it HURT to do it this way... but i got it done.. just find someone with skinny arms. they can reach down in there..
Tried through the brake duct yesterday, tore up my forearm and couldn't get the socket to release (no grip on detent clip), so I did it the other way by popping headlights up, removing bezel and reaching down from top. MUCH easier and I have smaller hands/wrist, can't imagine going through the ducting. Thanks for the tips.
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