I am new to the Corvette world and have decided to seriously look at purchasing a used Z06. I currently have a 3rd generation RX-7, but the love/hate relationship has turned bitter with the loss of my 3rd engine. It has been a great, unique car that I have modified to 300rwhp and had a lot of fun with, but the reliability of the rotory engine stinks and I am tired of hanging with the Ricer's.

Is there a place on this forum that has some buying tips that could help me in my search?

If not, what should I look for?

Thanks for the help!

 

If you havent already done so, do a search on the questions you have. The general consensus is to buy the latest model with the lowest mileage that you can afford. Warranty is still a factor in many peoples decisions also.

In general, C5's are reliable & not extremely expensive to repair. The problems they have are like most other cars. The only real outstanding issues with the Z06 in particular is the oil burning issue for 01's & some 02's. (do a search). Also the Column lock issue is common as well.

I love my 02 & its been dependable thus far, w/o any issues. Good luck in your quest for a Z & take your time. Theres a bunch available & prices are good.

 

Thanks, I'll continue perusing the forum.

 

Keep in mind since the Z06 is a true performance enthusiast's car, some on sale might have been heavily ragged on. A heavily modded car is a sign of this. Just be sure you do the things you would when buying any used car (carfax check, etc.) and make sure you inspect from top to bottom. Test drive and get on it and ensure everything feels nice and tight esp. the clutch and shifter. Bringing along a trusted mechanic or someone who knows these cars is not a bad idea.

 

Being that you put three engines together, it seems that you have some knowledge of automobiles. The Corvette community is a very unique cult, where everyone helps each other out and is dedicated to the product, regardless of its faults. Needless to say, if you're looking to buy a Z06, you're not going to get away cheap, like buying a ricer. Where those cars depreciate in time, the Corvette always stays an investment. I'm sure you know that if you get one thats raced, even with low mileage, there is going to be strain on the drive tranny, abuse on the clutch and gear box etc, especially motors that are boosted with nitro, do not have the life span of well kept driver.

So, if you buy cheaper with lots of mods, there's more of a chance for repairs. Buy at the right retail price, one that is well taken care of, and that's your better deal. Pay more, get more, pay less, get less. But even if you pay less, you'll be paying more than what you're used to with a ricer.

 

You might want to check out:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=984927

I bought an 04Z with low miles and 2 year GM warranty left...private sale by a non-smoker who I got to meet before buying the car from him and saw what kind of guy he was. He had owned many Vettes and wasn't into mods or tracking the car but car was not a garage queen. The 2 year warranty gave me alot of comfort.

Confirmed that car was not winter driven. My buddy's Z will be a nice car for someone to get when he sells it....never rain driven!!!!..hard to believe.

Got info on oil change mileage and date from owner who did his own work. Took his word for it as oil looked clean. He changed the oil at 2,000 miles.

Got service record from GM dealer at no cost...to verify that no work other than recalls had been done to the car. I didn't want a car that some Tech had torn apart and put together in some shipshod way. You may or may not know that the entire rear suspension, exhaust system, etc. has to be removed to do a clutch job and when an engine needs to be removed, the front suspension is taken out in addition. Tarher not have a car that has gone through that.

No stone chips in common places on C5,,,,,,,on front fascia or on body behind front and rear wheel wells or nicks in black plastic rear air duct moldings. For the $50.00 or so for the 3M paint protection filmwheel well kits from I should have put on the around the rear of the wheel wells. The 3M paint protection film is about $700 for the nose and hood so if the car has that you are getting a bonus and presumably a car that someone has taken care of. Finding a good installer of 3M paint protection film was another problem in a small city. I ordered an X-pel pattern wheel well set but the pieces were so small I didn't bother putting them on. Plan to order a set from another supplier (cant remember the name) whose dimensions are more generous and cover more of the wheel well areas subject to road rash.

No scapes on underside of front fascia (parking curbs are too high for this car). A friend got his new C6 Z07 and the first thing he did was forget he was not driving his 4x4 when he went to the bank and scraped the underside of the front fascia. He was pixxed to say the least.

No scratches on composite body near frame from speed bumps or dealer service lift arms being too high.

No curb rash on rims.

No dimpling of frame at jacking holes (from using jacking pucks (improperly or otherwise) or improper jack). One knowlegeable member on this Forum said to stay away from the pucks and use small pieces 2x4's.

How to jack the C5 ...lots of discussion. Just search "Lifting" or "Jacking" or both.

Even wear on all tires...saw several with 2,000 - 3,000 miles (front tires like new, no rear tread left). Dealer said no problem..we'll put new tires on the rear...too late for me. Wanted to make sure tires were OEM Goodyear F1 Supecar tires.,,they were designed for this car,

Too new to expect any problems with water infiltration into fuse box in right hand passenger well. Search under "udders".....a/c drain blockage that causes back up of water into fuse box in compartment.

Check to make sure grounds are not corroded.

Check to make sure that battery did not leak acid...this was a problem with some early Delco batteries.

No oil leaks found at bottom of bell housing. There is a Service Bulletin on block porosity causing oil leaks in addition to the possibility of rear main seals.

Notchy or difficult shifting from T-56 tranny....especially if the tranny fluid is cold. I accept this as normal but maybe its my clutch or a broken blocking ring or worn synchros. Prior to 2003 or so, the tranny had aluminum shift forks which contributed to problems...the 04 has steel shift forks. Guys have had clutch release issues on some C5 models (having to put your foot under the clutch pedal and pull it back in place). I would try to find some reputable and knowledgeable T-56 tranny rebuilder and pay him to test drive the car, if he would do that. Would like to know how to check the condition of the clutch and tranny beyond just driving the car.

On C5's with high miles or ones that have had clutch or tranny work...check rubber boots on axles...they should not be cut or have grease on them....otherwise you will be paying the bill.

2001's were reported they have ring problems. Believe that GM Service Manual says that excessive oil consumption is more than 1 quart per 500 miles.

Checked to see if the Carfax was clean and also did an Experian check....maybe a waste of money.

Probably should have had someone who is familiar with Vettes look at the car I bought. I knew nothing about Vettes and probably still don't in comparison to some on this Forum who have been really helpful. I would get the car on a hoist and make sure that the rotors and calipers are ok and that brake disks are worn per the mileage for normal usage (both front and rear). Rear brakes were badly worn even though the car has low mileage .......because of active handling coming on too often...a sign of abuse.

Some owners do an oil analysis but I didn't have time to do that when I was buying and this is probably the case for 98% of owners. Search for oil analysis if you are interested.

Checked to make sure that car was stock. One reason was that I liked the stock sound..so not Corsas or other exhaust mods. Z06 rims stock as non-stock have been reported to all be heavier (whether this is true or not, I am not sure).

Checked to make sure that the car had matching numbers. Recently a 2006 C6 Z06 was available from a local dealership. Car had 700 miles but had a new crate engine....original engine was replaced as a result of a broken valve spring. GM gave buyer a new replacment car (2007) at no cost as the buyer wanted matching numbers. GM stepped up to the plate.

Get front end guy to check suspension to ensure that car has not been on a car hauler where they used the suspension arms to secure the car. Only the slots in the frame can be used with proper hooks to secure car otherwise using the suspension to tie the car down will result in possible bending of the suspension. So if you are getting the car delivered by transport, make sure they know about how to load and secure Corvettes.

Ask what car comes with...car cover, Lloyd's Z06 carpets, trunk liner, OEM Owner's manual, service manuals.

Make sure that OEM tire repair kit is in trunk and has not been used or if used has been replenished.

Stick with the recommendations in the previous post. I would pay for the last model year built because I believe they had the least bugs.

The C5 Vette is one great car.

 

*Good man yourself!!! lol You've seen the light!!! There's a for sale section In this forum with really great deals, also check (ebay) &(cars.com)* For Info on buying the Vette I would Google or Yahoo It & see what comes up. If you didn't test drive one yet go tomorrow!!!!!!!!!!! It will be one great experience I'm telling ya!!! Best of luck & welcome to the elite club of Vette owner's....Once you own one lol