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changing front wheel wells

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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 12:28 PM
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Default changing front wheel wells

I have to change my front wheel wells so I bought them and gave them to my body shop guy and he said they couldn’t do it because the engine had to come out, is this true? Where can I bring it so I don’t get raped?
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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the wheel wells are bonded to the frame with adhesive

I do not have experience with this process, but engine removal sounds like BS
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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The engine DOES NOT have to come out. I wrecked my car and the body shop is replacing the passenger side inner fender. It's bonded to the frame and requires alot of work to remove as well as install. If the shop is not familiar with a Corvette, take it to another shop.
Bob
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 02:24 PM
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The engine DOES NOT have to come out - I've replaced BOTH of the inner wheelhouse structures - they are bonded (ie: read SUPER GLUE'd) to the frame - also, there is very LITTLE room for outer fender adjustment once the inner wheelhouses are glued in place - when you glue the inner wheelhouses to the frame you better KNOW that they are perfectly aligned and that the fenders will line up, cause if they are off, you are royally F'd*** once the glue/panel bond dries.

do a search of my posts from about 9 months or more back - I've posted the process that needs to be done before - if you still have questions, PM me and we can exhange cell phone numbers - much easier than re-typing the entire process again.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 04:42 PM
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Here are the instructions from the Service Manual (sans pictures):

Wheelhouse Replacement - Front
Tools Required
J 42058 Frame Adapter Clamp

Removal Procedure

Notice
Do not replace any SMC body panels until the frame rails have been replaced or repaired; mounting SMC panels requires the rails to be positioned accurately.

Caution
Refer to Approved Equipment for Collision Repair Caution in Cautions and Notices.

Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling Zones in SIR.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.

Remove the following panels and components to gain access to the front wheelhouse.
Front wheel
Fender
Fender splash panel
Bumper cover
Battery
Headlamp mounting brackets
Visually inspect and restore as much damage as possible to specifications using three-dimensional measuring procedures. Use J 42058 to secure the vehicle if pulling and straightening are required. Refer to Dimensions - Body or to Measurements - Underbody .
Relocate wiring as necessary to avoid damage.

Remove the four bracket bolts attaching the wheelhouse to the front hinge pillar.

Heat and pry to remove or dislodge adhesive beads attaching the wheelhouse to the vehicle.
Remove the damaged wheelhouse.

Installation Procedure

Notice
Do not adjust the fender by compromising the wheelhouse to rail gap. This gap must remain a nominal width to maintain the correct adhesive strength. The gap should be correct if the rails are properly located.

Notice
If possible, when prepping area for service part leave small portions of original adhesive in various places to act as shimming for wheelhouse spacing from frame rails. If original adhesive is not usable for shimming, use paint stir sticks, or equivalent, and shim according to body dimensions and body panel alignment.

Remove all remaining adhesive.
Scuff all bonding surfaces to ensure proper adhesion.

Important
DO NOT top coat any bonding surfaces. Use primer only on bonding surfaces. Refer to adhesive manufacturer's recommendations.

Clean and prepare all bonding mating surfaces according to adhesive manufacturer's recommendations.
Temporarily attach the fender to the wheelhouse.
Align the fender to door and hood and clamp the wheelhouse assembly into place.
Scribe line on rail to denote location of wheelhouse.

Apply structural adhesive GM P/N 89020330 or GM P/N Canada 8902332, to the wheelhouse.
Position front wheelhouse service part according to the scribe lines on the rail.
Install the four bracket bolts which attach the wheelhouse to the front hinge pillar, and clamp the wheelhouse to the rail.
Trowel around perimeter of bonding area to remove excess adhesive and restore original appearance.
Install all related panels and components.
Connect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical.
Enable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling Zones in SIR.

Hope this helps.

Bill
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 12:16 PM
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Sounds like your body shop guy needs to brush up on Corvettes.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 11:29 PM
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My guy says he does not remove the old glue from the frame rail. He grinds just a bit off the new inner fender and glues the new one in place. Note this is a exact science because if you get it wrong the fender gaps will not match. He made braces and adjustment screws so he can dial in the glue before it hardends. They can be seen in this picture attached to the front suspension.

It's best off left to those who know and have done it before. Unless you like to let someone LEARN on your car.

Dave
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CTSV OWNER


My guy says he does not remove the old glue from the frame rail. He grinds just a bit off the new inner fender and glues the new one in place. Note this is a exact science because if you get it wrong the fender gaps will not match. He made braces and adjustment screws so he can dial in the glue before it hardends. They can be seen in this picture attached to the front suspension.

It's best off left to those who know and have done it before. Unless you like to let someone LEARN on your car.

Dave
You don't want to remove ALL of the old glue, but you do want to remove SOME of it - use the old glue as the spacer in places, but remove the rest of the old glue and replace the glue that is removed w/ new glue - this way you get the correct spacing.

Been there, done that, and learned on my own car, which by the way turned out OK, but I took my time.
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