Okay so here’s my latest fix for the “hyper-flashing” issue that some Corvettes experience after installing the Halo LED tail lights. Before you try this here is my disclaimer; this worked fine for me and solved my hyper flashing problem. This fix has not been tested over a period of time, meaning its cold and snowy here in Michigan and I’m unable to drive my car right now so testing has been limited to what I can do in the garage. Okay on to what I did to make them flash correctly. First I did some reading and found that there are some places offering LED flashers that will fix the problem if they have one that will work for your car. Next I checked the wiring diagram in my service manual to see where our turn signal flasher was located and found that it is incorporated with the 4-way flasher in the dash. At this point I figured since our flasher did both jobs (turn signals and 4-ways) and had a special plug there was no way the LED replacement flasher would work. But after studying the wiring diagram for the current flasher I figured that by cutting two wires I could isolate the turn signal flasher from the 4-way flasher and either hook in the LED flasher or a heavy duty turn signal flasher. I called Greg at SuperBrightLED'S and asked if he would donate a LED flasher for testing and being the great guy he is he sent one out to me. The LED flasher I used was part number CF13 GL-02 (12V 0.02A – 20A). I hooked it up as described below and they worked! Not only do they flash correctly with the car running they also flash correctly with the car shut off! The LED lights now work through the CF13 GL-02 LED flasher and the 4-ways still function though the original flasher in the dash the same way they always did. This should also work for you guy’s that have LED bulbs in the front and LED halo’s in the back. So without doing a 20 page write-up I’ll get on to what you have to do to try this on your LED’s.

PARTS NEEDED.

One CF13 GL-02 (12V 0.02A – 20A) LED flasher. It can be found HERE.
One 3 wire flasher plug with at least a 9 inch harness to plug the flasher into.

YOU CAN PURCHASE A 4-WAY FLASHER HARNESS AND PLUG FROM A PARTS STORE. THE ONE I BOUGHT HAD ABOUT 9 INCHES OF WIRE ON EACH OF THE TERMINALS WHICH WAS ABOUT THE PERFECT LENGTH. ANOTHER METHOD WOULD BE TO JUST USE INDIVIDUAL TERMINALS AND WIRES FROM THE NEW FLASHER. I FELT BETTER HAVING THEM ALL IN A PLUG. IT’S MORE SECURE THAT WAY AND LESS CHANCES OF THEM SHORTING.

Soldering iron, low melting point solder. Or a suitable means of connecting the wires.


1. Remove the driver’s side panel under the steering column.
2. Look for the harness and plugs shown in picture # 1. Disconnect the white plug.

Pic #1 NOTE: I HAVE OTHER THINGS IN PROGRESS. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE DASH BEZEL, RADIO, HVAC,ECT….


3. If your harness is the same as mine it will have 9 wires in it. The colors are white, black, purple, dark blue, light blue, green w/black stripe, orange, pink, and gray w/black stripe. NOTE: IF YOUR WIRES ARE NOT THE SAME COLORS STOP HERE! I ONLY HAD A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR A 97 SO IF YOURS ARE DIFFERENT YOU WILL NEED TO GET A WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR MODEL YEAR.


4. Find the PINK wire and the PURPLE wire and go up the harness 3 inches from the plug and cut them. Fold the 3 inch length out away from the rest of the wires as you will be soldering one wire to each of them. The longer pink and purple wires that run up in the dash to the original 4-way switch just need to be taped and put back with the harness.


In the picture I have the harness removed from the car to get a better picture of the cuts.


5. Next find the BLACK wire and go up 3 inches and remove about 5/16” of insulation from the wire. DO NOT CUT THE BLACK WIRE IN TWO! Where you have removed the insulation you will wrap the wire that runs to the – negative terminal on the new flasher and solder.

6. Run the wire from the + (positive) (49) terminal of the flasher to the 3 inch PINK wire and connect them by soldering.

7. Run the wire from the L (lights) (49a) terminal on the flasher to the 3 inch PURPLE wire and connect by soldering.

8. Next run a wire from the – (negative) (31) terminal on the flasher and connect it to the black wire where you removed the 5/16 inch of insulation and solder.

9. Plug the harness back into the plug where you disconnected it from originally.

10. Turn on the key and try the turn signals. The turn signals should flash normally with the car off or running.

11. Turn off the key and press the four-way switch in the dash. The four-ways should function normally.

12. If everything works correctly and it should, you now need to find a spot to put your new flasher.

13. I routed the wires with through the ashtray opening so that you can put a piece of Velcro on the new flasher and another piece on the back of the ashtray and stick the new flasher to the back of the ashtray to secure. If you ever need to change the flasher all you have to do is pull out the ashtray with the flasher stuck to the back of it swap it out and put it back the same way.


This is the terminal layout on the flasher I used and how the wires from the harness should hook up.

E (black wire) L lights (purple wire) B + positive (pink wire)




Be sure to use care when hooking up the wires and plug so as to not have any shorts. All of the connections should be made with the battery disconnected. If you hook this up wrong it will blow the turn signal fuse (20 amp) located in the fuse panel in the passengers footwell and possibly you new LED flasher so be sure to connect the wires just as described!. If anyone has questions I'll try to answer them the best I can. I also have more pics if needed. If you do this fix and it works for you please post your results and input. I'm sure there are people out there more knowledgeable than me so if you have any input please post it!

 

Thanks for the info, let us know how it holds up.

 

wow...that's a good writeup...and a lot of work. i think i'll stick with your first fix.

 

All I did to fix the fast led tailight flashing was to hang two 6 ohm resistors. one across each of the inner tailight flasher leads. This fakes the flasher into thinking that filament blubs still exist. This also allows those tailight sequencers to flash correctly.

 

Actually its not that bad. Drop the drivers side under dash panel, unplug the wiring harness, cut two wires and remove a little insulation from a third, buy a plug and a LED flasher, make the connections and you're done. Now that I've done it once I could do it again in less than 30 minutes.

 

When I did this I noticed that my lights were dimmer and at least one website reccomends not using the resisters if you can use a flasher instead. But the goal is to eliminate the hyper-flashing and now we have several choices! Maybe you could do a little write-up of how you hooked in the resisters.

 

Mark, nice work! I originally tried the resistor approach and actually have the 6 ohm ones installed in my car right now, and it still hyper flashes. It might have to do with having the switchback leds up front also. Either way, this fix is definately a "cleaner" way to do it and it would be my choice, even if I did figure out the correct resistor combination that would also work for me. I have the flasher sitting at home, just have to make time to install it. Thanks again Mark for the great write up.

 

At some point I'd like to try these lights but can't understand why the manufacturer hasn't received word that there is an issue and fixed it. All the credit to you folks working the fixes !!

 

I believe only the old style LED tail lights did this. The newer Halo generation has a built-in fix and work like OEM.

 

Great write up. Thanks for the info.

 

Mine are the newer version and they still hyper flashed.

 

All the time or just sometimes? I haven't experienced that at all.

 

the halos with the resistor thingie do hyper flash from time to time. here is suprfun's original fix that i am using. it is working very well for me.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ght=halo+flash

 

Hi Ryan L,
Mine did it all the time! You are one of the lucky ones that they work just fine for, which seems to be the case for most that have these installed. But for some of us the hyper flashing is a problem. I don't know why they seem to work fine for some and hyper flash for others. My theory is that it definitely has something to do with the strength or calibration of your existing OEM flasher. What I have done above is isolate and send the current that flashes the turn signals through the LED flasher instead of the OEM flasher. The current that flashes the 4-ways still goes through and uses the OEM flasher just as it always did. In the process of figuring out which LED flasher to use I also substituted a "Heavy Duty Flasher" non LED and it worked also. The reason I want to use the LED flasher is that it does not depend on load to flash. It flashes on its own regardless of the load at the lights and will allow me (I think) to put LED lights in my front clear corners as well. Here is a very good explanation of how turn signals and flashers work. It isn't exactly the same as ours but the principals are the same I don't know how many people remember how on older models when you hooked up a trailer to your vehicle the turn signals would flash to fast and the fix was to install a heavy duty flasher and they would then flash correctly. I think that in both cases the OEM flasher is not of the correct calibration to adjust to the current load or lack of it once changes are made. I'm no electrical engineer (not even close) but I'm sure some of you out there are and if you have any input as to why this happens I'm all Also here is the wiring diagram for the 97 Corvette model year that the above fix is based on.