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cleabing engine compartment

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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 10:04 AM
  #1  
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Default cleabing engine compartment

what do you use to clean engine compartment? give me some tips please before i hook up the power washer

jim
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 10:10 AM
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I don't have a tip for cleaning the engine compartment, but read this for some good info;

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1622784

Mick
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:37 PM
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While opinions may vary the simple fact is that you never want to wash your engine with a pressure washer. If you must use running water at all use a garden hose with light pressure and no nozzle. This combined with (insert favorite cleaner here) and some elbow grease will get the most of it done. Once the major cleaning is complete a simple wipedown each time you wash the car should keep it looking great. Use of things like diluted simple green, lestoil and some of the armorall wipes make less work of it. Here is a service bulliten on damage that can result from liberal use of a pressure washer on the LS1 engine couresy of Patches.

1998-2002: Service Bulletin: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set

Subject: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor)
Source: Chevrolet Dealer Technical Service Bulletin
Number: 02-06-04-023

Models: 1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette, 1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VIN G -- RPO LS1)

1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models (Avalanche, Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL) with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4)

Condition:

Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.

Cause:

This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.

Correction:

Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed below.

Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.

Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.

Remove the rear bank knock sensor.

Install the new rear bank knock sensor. Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N·m(15 lb ft).

Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor.

Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown.

From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material).

Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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STOP!!! Do not use a power washer!!
That forces water into the electronics! believe me they do not mix...
At the most use a gentle flow of water to rinse....
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 07:18 AM
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:31 PM
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All I use is some Simple Green on a rag for any greasy spots and an old Absorber for any dust - but I have had my car since new and have kept up the cleaning since then. If yours needs a good cleaning, some Simple Green sprayed on the dirt/oil and then using a low flow of water to rinse will do the job.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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I guess I'm a heretic.

I take mine to the local car wash and hit it with the pressure washer. Been doing so for years on all my vehicles. I leave the engine running and have never had a problem.

I also remove the covers over the coils.

I've tried some of the suggestions spoken about here, but you just can't get into the nooks and crannies of the engine compartment.

In fact, the area under the manifold (by the knock sensors) is an area that will get trashed over time. And you can not get to it without pressure.

My engine compartment looks great and she runs like a bitch.

Sorry to be wet blanket.

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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 02:40 PM
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On my current 'vette, which I've had for five years (since new), I get the engine warm (not hot!), spray with Simple Green & let stand about 10 minutes with the hood down. Then rinse with low-pressure water, & dry with compressed air.
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bennettrp

My engine compartment looks great and she runs like a bitch.


I don't particularly agree with your methods, but that's funny right there...

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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 04:50 PM
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http://www.adamspolishes.com/videos/cleaning_motor2.cfm
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by bennettrp
I guess I'm a heretic.

I take mine to the local car wash and hit it with the pressure washer. Been doing so for years on all my vehicles. I leave the engine running and have never had a problem.

I also remove the covers over the coils.

I've tried some of the suggestions spoken about here, but you just can't get into the nooks and crannies of the engine compartment.

In fact, the area under the manifold (by the knock sensors) is an area that will get trashed over time. And you can not get to it without pressure.

My engine compartment looks great and she runs like a bitch.

Sorry to be wet blanket.


I also do this, I have done this with all 4 of my LS based motors since 2000, and have never had a problem. I dont sit there inches away form the electronics, just close enough to blow all the crap out. Works like a chartm everytime.
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