When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My car won't start. Got in to go home put in the key- my seat moves, turn it on all gauges/lights go through normal movements, then when I go to start nothing but a metalic tink sound. The engine doesn't even try to turn over. I'm showing 11.7 on battery volts, the battery is connected and all the power seems to be good. I read about the resistor on the key so I have cleaned it, used an eraser still the same result. No codes and the security light does not stay on This moring it did the same thing but I pulled the key, then tried again and it started no problem. I'm at a loss. I'm having someone come and pick me up to take me home and I'm going to bring the spare key to try that tomorrow but any other ideas would be great.
And, I have a 98 M5 with 69K. I have had it for a year and half.
Any help please!
Thanks
BH26
Last edited by BountyHunter26; Feb 21, 2007 at 12:34 AM.
My car won't start. Got in to go home put in the key- my seat moves, turn it on all gauges/lights go through normal movements, then when I go to start nothing but a metalic tink sound. The engine doesn't even try to turn over. I'm showing 11.7 on battery volts, the battery is connected and all the power seems to be good. I read about the resistor on the key so I have cleaned it, used an eraser still the same result. No codes and the security light does not stay on This moring it did the same thing but I pulled the key, then tried again and it started no problem. I'm at a loss. I'm having someone come and pick me up to take me home and I'm going to bring the spare key to try that tomorrow but any other ideas would be great.
And, I have a 98 M5 with 69K. I have had it for a year and half.
Any help please!
Thanks
BH26
if you hear a repeating clinking noise when you try to turn the ignition on, it is most likely your battery. I have had the same problem, and even though the battery read 11.4 volts, it wasnt enough to turn the ignition on.
The problem is that ignition draws many amps from the battery, and believe it or not, 11.4 or 11.7 volts isnt enough. When the same problem happened to me, I charged the battery using a charger for a few hours, and then no problem, I let it run allowing the alternator to charge it up...
bottom line, you may want to replace the battery...you said you have a 98, so by now you should have gone through your second battery, if not, time to swtich
I don't think its a dead battery (but I will try tomorrow when I bring the extra key) because the engine doesn't turn. The metal tink doesn't sound like it has when I've had a drained battery before. But thanks for the quick responses- thats what I love about this forum
I don't think its a dead battery (but I will try tomorrow when I bring the extra key) because the engine doesn't turn. The metal tink doesn't sound like it has when I've had a drained battery before. But thanks for the quick responses- thats what I love about this forum
BH26... A battery showing less than 12+ volts will struggle to turn the engine over (likely not at all!!) but will run everything else with no issues at all. It doesn't take much difference in voltage amounts to work, or not work, (or click differently than before) depending on what those voltages are... but they need to be something north of 12 in order to work properly.
Charge the battery, see what it shows right after charging, then what it is the next day. If it's still low or drops overnight, get a new battery.
I'm like anyone and hate to spend money but when you look at it, a battery is one of the cheapest items we put in these cars and will make life so much easier if it works well... Good luck!!!
PS, if the security pill were the issue on the key, I believe the car would NOT attempt to start at all... It would do NOTHING!! Not even click...
Last edited by VRROOOM2; Feb 21, 2007 at 07:08 AM.
I concur with the battery. Remove the negative and check for corrosion first. Also, it could be a dead cell in the battery. It will show a charge and little current-drawing features will work, but trying to start it will instantly kill the battery.
And, I have a 98 M5 with 69K. I have had it for a year and half
First, it's probably a MN6 (or C5-whichever you meant). Either way, if it started a few minutes later, you could have corroded or loose battery connections or a bad spot in the starter solenoid. Hard to say without hearing the noise, but if you're hearing clicking from the engine compartment, you either don't have enough voltage to engage the solenoid into the starter, or it's bad. My car starts fine showing 10.8 on the DIC, I tried it yesterday. If you can catch it doing it, try loosening and wiggle and retighten the battery cable connection. If it works, remove and clean the connections and reattach.
If it is an issue such as the key pellet, the car will store a DTC. Check for stored DTC's using the DIC. For info on how to do this (if you haven't done it before) can be found at:
I concur with the battery. Remove the negative and check for corrosion first. Also, it could be a dead cell in the battery. It will show a charge and little current-drawing features will work, but trying to start it will instantly kill the battery.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.