Getting all four new rotors from napa,

what are good pads to go with, its a daily driver, never tracked....

the durastops of ebay from the partslady?

or something else....?

I've done brakes on my dodge truck before, is there anything I need to pay attention to on the vette?

Do you have to compress the calipers like other cars ?

Any input will be helpfuly
Thanks

 

You can compress the calipers. Gm reccomends replacing the caliper bolts. use red loctite and a torque wrench.I don't know the exact foot pounds. Maybe someone will chime in.Pretty easy to do.

 

Do i have to bleed the brakes if i dont disconnect the calipers?

 

And also does anyone have the part number for the bolts that gm says to replace?

 

You do not need to bleed the system. I would simply clean and reuse the bolts, making sure to put blue loctite on them.

 

PM me with your email address and I will send you the directions with pics I used.

 

Bleed screw goes in the UP position... Ask me how I know...

 

serious.

 

You might want to paint the center section of the new rotors. This will help to avoid the rust. Use a High Heat exhaust type paint.
Barrier

 

Put on NAPA rotors, but painted the hats first so no rust shows. Cheap bling. Also used SPEED BLEEDERS, worth every penny. With the speedbleeders and the engine running (i.e. brake system is on), I opened each one and pumped (SLOWLY)the brakes until the Red Brake light came on the dash, then filled the resivoir up. This ran about 1.5 quarts of fluid through the system. Did this cycle twice per wheel in the following order RR, LR, RF, LF. Did this 6,000 miles ago, no problems brake fluid is still clear and clean car stops on a dime. Just my way of doing it.

Also, if you have vibration/pulsing after installation, here's a TSB on correcting vibration or pulsing when applying brakes, it deals with rotor run out. The Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate is essentially a shim. Make sure you clean the hubs of rust before installing rotors:

Brakes - Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

File In Section: 05 - Brakes

Bulletin No.: 01~05-23-001A

Date: March, 2003

INFORMATION
Subject:
Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

Models:
2003 and Prior Passenger Cars

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001 (Section 05 - Brakes).

This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B for additional brake rotor service procedures).
Important: Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation, such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.

Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.

GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors. This new method is called Brake Align(R) It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in) or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.

* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.

The Brake Align(R) Starter Kit will include an ample supply of Correction Plates, in various correction sizes, that will cover most current GM passenger car applications It will also include a Brake Align(R) tool kit containing a dial indicator and retaining washers along with other useful tools.

Service Procedure

Follow all the procedures referred to in Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B. Dealers who have purchased the Brake Align(R) Starter Kit may use the following simplified runout correction procedure:
1. The existing rotors must first be machined on an approved, well-maintained bench lathe to guarantee smooth, flat and parallel surfaces. Should the rotors require replacement, please note that this is not necessary to machine new rotors.

2. Make sure all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean, using the J 42450-A Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit. Mount the new or refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub onto the vehicle hub using the retaining washers provided in the kit. Do not reinstall the caliper or wheel at this time.

3. Tighten all the wheel nuts to the proper specification, using J 39544 Torque Socket or the equivalent.

4. Fasten the dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (1/2 in) from the rotor's outer edge.

5. Rotate the rotor and observe the total runout.

6. Index the rotor on the hub to achieve the lowest amount of lateral runout. This will require removal and reassembly of the rotor until the lowest total lateral runout reading is obtained. If this reading is .050 mm (.002 in) or less, the assembled rotor is within specification The brake system may be reassembled.

7. If total lateral runout is greater than .050 mm (.002 in), proceed with determining the correct Brake Align(R) Correction as follows:

^ Rotate the rotor to locate the lowest dial indicator reading and set the dial to zero.

^ Rotate the rotor to determine and locate the highest amount of lateral runout.

8. Remove the rotor.

9. Select the appropriate Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate for this vehicle.

Important: Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub.

Never attempt to re-use a previously installed Correction Plate.
10. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the vehicle between the hub and the rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.

11. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor. Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 7.

12. The rotor should then be secured onto the hub and tightened to the proper specificating. The rotor should be dial indicated once more to assure that the rotor is now within specification.

The brake system is now ready for the remaining service and assembly. Once the caliper has been installed, check to ensure that the rotor rotates freely

If you put it back together properly and meet the runout tolerances, then it should be job well done.

 

When I did mine I found I needed a double swival socket wrench to get the bolt loose on the rear caliper. Cost me $30 at HD, but was well worth it. I did not have a lift, which is why I couldn't get the leverage needed.

 

Gm Recommends replacing the bolts because they take them to yeild when they are installed. That simply means that they tightem them till they start to perminently deform. The bolts will never be as strong the second time you use them as the first. It is worth the cheap insurance of changing the bolts. Use a torque wrench and find the correct installation torque.
just IMHO
jason

 

I did all 4 wheels a few weeks ago and installed zinc dipped cross drilled & groved rotors. They look good and perform same. As mentioned earlier in another thread I installed Raybestos ceramic pads that are low dust and quiet. NAPA will have a similar brand but Raybestos has been around forever. If you race at the drags or autocross you may want metallic, but they are dirty and need to be very warm to perform.

 

No bleeding required. You might need a 5" or 6" c-clamp to compress the cylinders. If your upgrading to slotted rotors and want to keep them looking good then stick with stock pads. I remember reading ceramics cause discoloration on certain rotors. If you go with gm pads they come with the caliper bolts, up to you but I'd replace them, its a piece of cake. Its an easy job, good luck!

 

I only have one,,,,,Don't drink any beer while doing your brakes, I did and forgot to tighten a couple of bolts, I found out while driving 80 MPH on my way to the A&A BBQ, lucky me, I was only 2 miles from his shop when they came out. My calipers didn't like me at all after that

 

I got the ACDelco ceramic pads from Partslady. They are great. They come with new clips ( very important ) and the proper brake lube. Another tip would be to put some silicon anti squeal on the outside of the pads where they touch the piston and caliper. Use the provided lube for the caliper pins, and the clips where the metal from the pads touch. Maybe pick up some extra brake lube, and BE LIBERAL with it! I also took out the caliper pins and boots, and cleaned off all the old grease and grime, before regreasing them. If you do all this, you will have the quietest brakes you've ever experienced. To answer another question : Yes, you should compress the caliper pistons. I actually used a quick clamp, with the rubber boots. Last tip: Stock up on beer and cigs BEFORE you start, lol! Have fun!

 

As far as bleeding, you don't have to, but why not while you're doing it? If you have done any track time, especially with stock rotors and pads, the fluid probably got a little hot. It's easy to do and cheap to replace, even easier while you're already in there.

 

Any body have pics and directions of bleeding the brakes?

 

Paint your calipers while you're at it.

 

This is good! Must save!

Thanks,Matt