I'm heading over to the dyno at lunch today. There is a place in town that just got one a couple of months ago. That part has me a little worried, not sure how well they know how to use it...

What should I look for? Is there a certain configuration to run with our cars? A friend of mine already went there and said the numbers seemed a little off, but then again that could have been his car(BMW M3).

I'm running completely stock and this is a mustang dyno!

 

Your #s will likely be lower than you expect. Most dyno #s on this board come from DynoJet dynos. My guess is that you will see #s in the 325-335 rwhp range. Don't get upset about the low #s they are calculated with a slightly different formula that is supposed to be more accurate. I personally don't care as much about the accuracy or lack there of but I do care about the before and after #s I get from performance mods. If you start doing mods you will wan to continue to use the same dyno so you can get an idea of the gains you are getting from your parts.

Dyno runs are very cool.

Have fun

 

The main purpose of a dyno is a tuning tool. Remember every dyno is different, but when you make a change using the same dyno to determine before and after numbers to show gains or loses mods create. The true test of performance is at the track. i would make sure to get correct numbers if possible since it relates the HP calculated to standard conditions of weather. The correction helps if you dyno on different days to add some clarity to numbers produced.

 

Thats what I was kinda looking at, doing a before dyno on completely stock, 20k miles. Then I'll start tunning and moding and go back.

Looks like they use the SAE correction, the dyno guy had to leave today so it looks like friday at noon!!

 

A Mustang Dyno is generally always read lower than a Dynojet, but is supposed to be more accurate in the way it loads the car.

Before and after numbers on the same dyno are what you're really shooting for, though.

Have fun!

 

The numbers are lower than dynojet, because the output numbers are what is present at the tires AFTER the actual weight and aerodynamic load is accounted for. Have them use 3300# and 11.5 for your aero, double check the weather station figures, inertia weight for the dyno setup, and that they have correctly calibrated the torque arm, as well.

The roller inertia is a big deal, because I have seen several Mustang dyno owners artificially raise that roller weight number, to get higher dyno readings. If this number is higher than actual, it will load less, but show higher power numbers(it thinks the vehicle is moving more weight than it is) Mustang shipped one of mine with the incorrect inertia factor for a much heavier roller, and the power numbers were all about 10-15% higher than dynojet numbers, so the nutshell is that yes, the eddy current dyno with the torque arm is more complex than the dynojet, and they do need to be familiar with it. It takes awhile to really get an operator to be truly proficient in the use of them, but then I probably expect more than the average guy, too.

The number of cars they have run really does not matter, if they have been running the setup inacurately and not know it. If you ask them specific questions about the setup of it, the quickness and accuracy of the answer will give you the gut feeling you can use to say yay or nay.

jp