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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 08:40 AM
  #1  
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Hi folks. I posted this over on ls1.com and thought, I would try over here as well..

I have a 1999 fixed roof coupe Corvette with 20,000 miles. The car is like new. BUT.

I drove it yesterday without a hickup.

Today, I started it up with no problems, went to roll up the passenger window and it stops about half way. Then I hear a ding and the check tire pressure message was up, then it said, reduced engine power. I scrolled through the list and the tire-pressure was blank - then the engine turns off but I have accessory power. I started it up again and the same thing happened.

I would think it was the battery going haywire but its a new battery (within the last 3 months) and everything is fastened down fine.

Has anyone ever heard of anything like this? Sounds like somethig is not getting enough power and its making the computer go spastic. I can't imagine all of those functions going out at once.

Any ideas?

Its a 6 speed.

Thanks alot!

Keith
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 09:00 AM
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Not an expert by any means.

Try looking here to see if you find anything that helps you.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=896875

From what I have seen and heard these cars are very tricky. A loose wire or connection, etc. causes all kinds of problems.

What kind of battery do you have? The best kind of battery to have is a gel type battery like an Optima. The reason is that the other type batteries sometimes leak and the computer that controls your powertrain is below the battery. If any leakage gets into the PCM you are talking big $$$$ and major headache.

I highly recommend reading the general stickies in each section, especially C5 general.

Hope it is only a minor problem and quickly solved.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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you may be on the right track thinking it could be a batttery problem - I'd get it checked. I have seen posts where people stop to get gas, and their battery dies, so they can go south quick.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Ill check it out. I was able to scroll through the idiot menu until I found the battery voltage which displayed 11.5 volts. Hmmm.

You think maybe the alternator could be at fault? I cant imagine what else it could be? Perhaps the PCM going out? That would stink... I bet those are a pretty penny.

Anyway - thanks for the help.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 02:59 PM
  #5  
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11.5 while it was running would seem low - the alternator would be something to check too. These things are real sensitive to any fluctuations in current or voltage.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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Cool. I am going to put an optima in there and see what happenes. There is kind of a crappy (but new) battery in there. Crappy meaning it looks pretty generic.

Its got to be the alternator or battery.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rutherk1
Cool. I am going to put an optima in there and see what happenes. There is kind of a crappy (but new) battery in there. Crappy meaning it looks pretty generic.

Its got to be the alternator or battery.
Why would start throwing parts at it when you don't know what's wrong?? It might be the battery or it might be the alternator.......or BOTH. I've had it happen. Go to Kragen or any parts house and have them test it for you first. It's free and they do it at the curb. Then, you'll know.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Ill test the alternator. I am going to put in a new battery regardless. It has some Meijer brand thing in there.
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Old Mar 14, 2007 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fixvet
Why would start throwing parts at it when you don't know what's wrong?? It might be the battery or it might be the alternator.......or BOTH. I've had it happen. Go to Kragen or any parts house and have them test it for you first. It's free and they do it at the curb. Then, you'll know.
Good advice.

I'd get things tested, before dropping money on parts... And as for the "new" battery, I've had a so-called "new" battery go dead on me after 4-months of use...

There are such things a defective. I just took it back to Checkers Auto Parts and got a brand-new one off the shelf. That's what warranty is for... 2¢
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 5ltrEATER
Good advice.

I'd get things tested, before dropping money on parts... And as for the "new" battery, I've had a so-called "new" battery go dead on me after 4-months of use...

There are such things a defective. I just took it back to Checkers Auto Parts and got a brand-new one off the shelf. That's what warranty is for... 2¢
I am definately replacing the battery. The generic yellow battery doesnt look at home. Ill at least have it tested to see if that is going to fix my problem.

Thanks for the input.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 01:24 PM
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Did you check all the fuze??? I knew somebody that had similar problems and it was a bad fuze.
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Old Mar 15, 2007 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by STLKillerC5
Did you check all the fuze??? I knew somebody that had similar problems and it was a bad fuze.
I looked at the fuses but couldnt figure out which one it could be. I looked at the chart and pulled the obvious ones. Maybe Ill check them all.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 08:40 AM
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I put an Optima red top in. I didn't know if that was going to be the problem but since I was going to replace what was in there either way, I thought it would be a good place to start.

After hooking it up, I was able to roll up the passenger window which was a good sign. The car fired up and the computer was registering 14.4 volts rather than the 11.4 that it was with the old battery. It sat idle for a few mins without the plethora of warnings I was getting before.

I'm thinking/hoping this was the problem. Just a low quality battery in a car that pretty much sat in someones garage until I bought it. (its a 1999 with 20,000 miles). The previous owner had replaced the battery with a generic battery but the car sat in a garage and the battery may have lost its ability to hold a good charge.

The red top looks sweet too. A lot better than the yellow and grey duralast.

Anyway, thanks for the help!

Keith
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Old Mar 18, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Update: FYI.

I took it for its first post battery change drive. As per the post above, the battery seemed to have fixed the problems. When I backed out of my garage I got the "Check tire pressure monitoring system" and "check active handling system" error (or something to that extent) and the "reduced power mode" went into effect. I started to drive it down the street and all of those errors seemed to vanish.

Since I had the battery disconnected could the PCM need to recalibrate itself or something?

Could it be the TPMS sensors in the wheels? I imagine after almost 9 years the batteries have to be getting old.

Thanks for the help... Im getting there

Last edited by rutherk1; Mar 19, 2007 at 01:50 PM.
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