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Dreaded Headlight Issue

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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 12:23 AM
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Default Dreaded Headlight Issue

The Wifey and I went to dinner tonight. As I was pulling in, I dropped my headlights on my 01 coupe. The drivers side headlight motor started grinding like crazy after it went down. It carries on for about 5 seconds and then stops. The lights still go up and down, but everytime they go down, the driver's side makes that horrible noise.

I've done lots of forum reading on the problem tonight. I have a couple of questions.

Does this sound like a problem with the gears or the entire motor?

Would it be easier to just replace the entire motor instead of fumbling with the little gears? I see Ecklers has the motor for $129. That's not bad if it's going to save me a bunch of hassle.

Is this indeed an easy job? Some people are swearing it can be done in under an hour, some are saying it's a pretty hard deal.

Are there any step by step instructions around here (maybe with pics)?

Thanks to all of you gurus for the help!
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 12:24 AM
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it's the gear.

replacing the whole motor is easier than replacing just the gear but the gear will fail again eventually.

the gear swap is not too difficult and there are many walkthroughs here on the forum.

you can also see the walkthroughs from Brent Franker:


http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm



or Rodney Dickman:


http://www.rodneydickman.com/n113.html


Of the 2 styles available, i'd go with the solid Bfranker ones because the rubber bushings have failed again on me with my Rodney kit.

The Franker kit doesn't have those issues.

Last edited by jdmvette; Mar 17, 2007 at 12:30 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 12:30 AM
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The epoxy thing bugs me a bit. Plus several people that tried to replace just the gears say they are having more trouble now. Delimmas delimmas.....
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 12:33 AM
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the epoxy came off on mine also.

i ended up drilling several small holes around the perimeter of the casing and the lid and sliding a small cotter pin in and twist tie-ing the lid on. it's very solid now.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 01:01 AM
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Awesome. Should I try to take the headlight out before I remove the motor? I just went out and looked at it and it seems there's only 3 bolts holding it in? The BFranker link shows how to take it out of a Trans Am. Anybody know if there is a C5 instruction set somewhere?
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 01:21 AM
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there are 3 bolts and one nut holding the motor on from the other side.

it's very straightforward when you get into it. you don't need to pull the headlight at all.

it's the same motor for the TA so it will bolt the same way in the C5.

if you get a new motor it's as simple as pulling the bolts and putting the new one on. you don't have to mess with any of the gear business. but a new one will fail on you eventually.

your stock one lasted 6 years though, so it might be worth it to you.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 03:39 AM
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Yep, the plastic gear in the motor is stripped. Does just what you are describing and does it without warning. Get a pair of brass replacement gears from Rodney Dickman for $85. They come in a kit that includes instructions, lube, epoxy to reseal the motor housing once your break them apart to switch out the gears. The new brass gears work like a charm and should be a permanent solution to the problem. May as well do both sides while you're at it. The other one will go when you least expect or want it to...
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 03:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mixxit
Awesome. Should I try to take the headlight out before I remove the motor? I just went out and looked at it and it seems there's only 3 bolts holding it in? The BFranker link shows how to take it out of a Trans Am. Anybody know if there is a C5 instruction set somewhere?
I wouldn't take out the whole assembly. Just remove the black plastic trim piece that surrounds your headlight for easier access. There are three 10mm bolts bracing the motor to the bracket and a 4th one bolting the arm leve to the actuator (ie the spindle of the motor). Once I had the right tools to do the job, I found the most challenging thing was re-installing the arm back on to the actuator. It needs to be properly seated on it and you have to do it by feel because you can't see what you're doing. Now for the tools...I went out to Home Depot and bought a set of HuskyPro Double Box-End "Racheting" Wrenches. These little gems were a godsend and made quick work of those pesky 10mm bolts. If only I had these available when I started the project, I would have saved myself a lot of grief and time. Good luck!
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 05:41 AM
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I bought my gear from Brent Franker for $45 shipped and installed it in about 30 minutes. I DID NOT use the epoxy either. I simply removed the black headlight bezel, then reached in behind the headlight itself and removed the 3 bolts & 1 nut. After removing the 3 casing screws, I removed all the broken pieces, wiped out the inside, installed the brass gear with a little more grease and screwed the lid back on. (the cover gasket stayed intact so I didn't bother with the epoxy)

It's been 4 months and not a single issue with mine. No more embarrasing noise coming from the headlight! I would go with the brass gear over another motor & plastic gear myself. After time it will definitely strip again.

Just my .02 worth

Last edited by str8upchevy; Mar 17, 2007 at 05:43 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by str8upchevy
I bought my gear from Brent Franker for $45 shipped and installed it in about 30 minutes. I DID NOT use the epoxy either. I simply removed the black headlight bezel, then reached in behind the headlight itself and removed the 3 bolts & 1 nut. After removing the 3 casing screws, I removed all the broken pieces, wiped out the inside, installed the brass gear with a little more grease and screwed the lid back on. (the cover gasket stayed intact so I didn't bother with the epoxy)

It's been 4 months and not a single issue with mine. No more embarrasing noise coming from the headlight! I would go with the brass gear over another motor & plastic gear myself. After time it will definitely strip again.

Just my .02 worth
the early ones had 3 casing screws. the later ones are sealed and you have no choice but to break the seal to get to the gear.

the epoxy is supposed to hold the lid back on to the housing. it rarely holds.

Last edited by jdmvette; Mar 17, 2007 at 06:48 AM.
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jdmvette
the early ones had 3 casing screws. the later ones are sealed and you have no choice but to break the seal to get to the gear.

the epoxy is supposed to hold the lid back on to the housing. it rarely holds.
Thanks to "Value Engineering", not everything is better on a newer C5 .

JDM... I was thinking like you to avoid the epoxy. Is there enough "meat" to use some small hex head screws in lieu of just epoxy to re-assemble?
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Old Mar 17, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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I did read on a few other threads that people put small screws (or even twist ties) in the housing to help hold it together.

Thanks to everyone so far for the replies! Any other advise is much appreciated!
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