where can I purchase the ACDELCO Iriduims, im planning on changing my spark plugs soon, is it hard to do?

thanks andrew

 

The only one that is difficult is the #7 spark plug. The others arent too bad from what I hear. I will be tackling the spark plug change the next oil change.

 

The dealer here had them for $56.00 a set. Change you wires also while you at it. The Iridium plugs are great and they are good for 100K miles.

 

Great plugs! Do not re-gap them when you install and put a dab of anti-seize on the plugs for easy removal.

Chuck

 

 

Why not regap?

 

Use anti-seize for sure.

 

 

I bought NGK Iridium plugs from Advance Auto for ~$56.xx. I swapped my plugs and wires lastnight and it wasn't hard to do with the exception of #7.

 

heads are aluminin

 

Not hard to do. Patience is key. The plugs are pre-gapped, so do not attempt to gap them. The reason is that the electrode will break off. I have NGK Iridiums and they are great.

V.

 

my z06 has 34K miles on it now. it's an '02. how often should the plugs and wires be changed?

 

Plan to replace mine this summer. Good tips for the job here.

 

DO NOT TOUCH THE ACDELCO gap specs, if you do they will be ruined!

I don't think the NGK iridiums are really any different in price, so I just went to the GM dealership and picked up a set.

 

I agree on the difficulty - pretty easy except for #7. Even that isn't bad. Try changing plugs in a 60's big block Mustang (even worse than the Camaros, with the shock towers - you can only really reach about three plugs ).

Which is how I knew the trick I used for #7. 32 years of tuning a 428 Mustang taught me a thing or two. Get a piece of fuel line that will fit over the plug insulator without sticking too hard. Use this to thread the plug down behind the brake booster and under the AIR plumbing and between the exhaust manifold runners. Gently turn while adjusting position until you can turn the plug into the hole. Don't force (which would be hard to do with fuel line, anyway). Pull the fuel line off, put your spark plug socket, extension, and torque wrench on the plug, and tighten to spec. Or buy the Snap-On spark plug socket with the built-in wobbler that's made to get into these tight spots.

As far as gap, my AC Iridiums came out of the boxes about .008 over spec for the gap. Used a proper gapping tool from Snap-On (as opposed to banging them on the workbench like I used to do with the Autolites, or using a little screwdriver to open the gap). This tool grabs the outside electrode and allows you to bend it gently, without touching the very fragile inside electrode.

I'm sure someone will tell me I made a mistake by taking the plug gap to spec, but no bad effects in a couple of thousand miles, so do whatever blows your skirt up.

What I'm still waiting to hear is a commentary on the use of the copper anti-seize compound we used on the old cars, with these aluminum motors. Al-Cu splices in house electrical are prone to electrolytic corrosion, but it seems like you'd want the improved electrical conductivity, and the heat transfer, gained from the conductive anti-seize. A mechanic friend tells me I can get aluminum conductive anti-seize, but I still wonder about the copper (since I have a bunch for the old cars).

Any comments on the Al-Cu question would be welcomed!