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From: Dear Karma, I have a list of people you missed.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by rws.1
there is no need to idle for 10 minutes or to get the car up to temperature if one is just driving away...Just start it, let the idle settle, let the oil pressure come up and drive it...
BUT if you are planning to mash the pedal to the floor... you should let it warm up to normal operating temperatures first..
NO frisky driving until oil temp is up at least in the 150* range. Coolant heats up much faster than oil temps.
Another good reason is they can get stolen when you go in the house, even for a minute. I work for an insurance company and we see it all the time in the cold months. In the summer people go to a 7 11 and get a soda and leave the AC on to keep it cool and bye bye there goes the car.
Lets get something correct here. It may not be a "must" according to some people on this board but I would highly recomend it. Is your schedule that busy where you cannot factor in an extra 10 minutes to ensure that your vehicle is properly at its operating temperatures?
Now it IS a MUST if you have a CAMMED car. Normally if someone has put an aftermarket cam in their car they have replaced the valve springs. Normally these aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock ones. They are also more brittle at startup then factory springs.
I once asked this very same question to Andy at A&A Corvettes and I hope I am recalling his answer correctly. But whether I am or not, this is what I do and it makes sense...
- Once the oil temperature goes above 150 F, the car is suitably warmed up for more aggressive driving.
- Until 150 F oil temperature, try to not to exceed 2000 RPM.
Last edited by Z06ster; May 16, 2007 at 04:41 PM.
Reason: grammar
Lets get something correct here. It may not be a "must" according to some people on this board but I would highly recomend it. Is your schedule that busy where you cannot factor in an extra 10 minutes to ensure that your vehicle is properly at its operating temperatures?
Now it IS a MUST if you have a CAMMED car. Normally if someone has put an aftermarket cam in their car they have replaced the valve springs. Normally these aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock ones. They are also more brittle at startup then factory springs.
My car is cammed and I have never had a problem with starting it and driving it without warming up first. Again I do not get on it, I do wait until its warmed up before I drive aggressively. Its been over two years now since I put the cam in it and no problems what so ever. I could be wrong but that makes no sense that aftermarket valve springs are more brittle than stock ones.
I usually let mine warm up to 130°F oil temp and stay around 2500rpm. Once past that it's go time. This is with my cam and 918 springs.
When I was stock, it was get in, fire it up, and hammer down.
I'd venture to say that GM intended worst case usage of these cars and considered WOT at cold engine temps...I may be wrong though.
My car is cammed and I have never had a problem with starting it and driving it without warming up first. Again I do not get on it, I do wait until its warmed up before I drive aggressively. Its been over two years now since I put the cam in it and no problems what so ever. I could be wrong but that makes no sense that aftermarket valve springs are more brittle than stock ones.
You probally do not have a high lift cam. Dual springs normally last less than 30k miles. Whats the specs on your cam?
I am 63 years old. I have started cars and driven off gently for years and years. No hard starts, no full go pedal to the floor. I let the temp come up before any hard push on the go pedal.
Letting a car idle for 5 to 10 minutes is almost one of the most silly ideas I have ever heard. Now unless you live where it is -40 degrees, then a warm up period would be proper otherwise it is totally a crazy idea.
From: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by jbone
Now it IS a MUST if you have a CAMMED car. Normally if someone has put an aftermarket cam in their car they have replaced the valve springs. Normally these aftermarket valve springs are stiffer than stock ones. They are also more brittle at startup then factory springs.
Then please explain to me why an NHRA Pro Stock car will go through the staging lanes with ICE WATER in the block. Fire it up and do an 9k RPM burnout with not so much as 10 seconds of warm up. Surely this must be hell on the valve springs
From: I have no tolerence for liberals and fools, but sometimes i repeat myself
CI 3-5-7-8-9 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by 02MillenniumVette
My car is cammed and I have never had a problem with starting it and driving it without warming up first. Again I do not get on it, I do wait until its warmed up before I drive aggressively. Its been over two years now since I put the cam in it and no problems what so ever. I could be wrong but that makes no sense that aftermarket valve springs are more brittle than stock ones.
thats because its not true. If High performance valve springs were more brittle than stock they would not compress MUCH FURTHER than stock
I let mine warm up a bit in the morning just to get the oil temp up a little after it has had one heat cycle I will typically just start it up and allow the rpm idle settle and drive. Now, I do have 918 springs in my car and I don't care what anyone writes, I will take it easy until the car is at operating temperature before I beat my cammed car with those springs in it.
there is no need to idle for 10 minutes or to get the car up to temperature if one is just driving away...Just start it, let the idle settle, let the oil pressure come up and drive it...
BUT if you are planning to mash the pedal to the floor... you should let it warm up to normal operating temperatures first..
there is no need to idle for 10 minutes or to get the car up to temperature if one is just driving away...Just start it, let the idle settle, let the oil pressure come up and drive it...
BUT if you are planning to mash the pedal to the floor... you should let it warm up to normal operating temperatures first..