I searched the forums but couldn't find the information I need.

Symptoms:

1. Reduced cooling, seems to cool adequately at cooler ambient temps.
2. Limited air flow even at high settings.
3. At 80-90 ambient temp, absolutely cannot stay up with needs.
4. Some air flowing from defroster vent.

Diagnosis so far.
1.Experienced mechanic checked refrigerant pressures and all were in spec.

2. When in manual mode, if set to defroster vent, air still vents about 1/2 the volume out the front air vents and some out knee vents.

3. May be a vacuum pressure problem not closing the bypass/plenum door entirely.

Problem and info requset

1. Went to buy a repair manual, none available from Chilton/Haynes for 2000 Vette. I can buy a Helms manual for $135. But I need it tomorrow.
Or an online subscription for a month. Experienced mechanic is willing to help me tomorrow.

2. Does anyone have the applicable electric and or vacuum diagrams for a 2000 Vette? or know where I could find them online?

3. Any other suggestions to look at to solve the problem, the system had been working until about June1.

Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Ron

 

Same problem after DIY header install.

 

Does this seem right? Mechanic believes servo motor faulty, either linkage or motor and it is an electrical motor, also thinks we will have to pull the dash entirely out to replace.

Any ideas?

 

If your fan motor is blowing strong but air is mostly coming out the defroster vents, it is probably caused by a vacuum problem. This is usually the result of an acid leak from the battery which eats up the nylon vacuum lines below and behind the battery. Had this happen to me, twice before I bought an Optima Red Top.

 

Found long list of info on another thread, search

A/C sucks!


Good info

 

The older C5s tended to leak battery acid into the compartment below the battery. The source line comes from the MAP sensor in back of the intake manifold, runs through the battery compartment to a check valve attached to your vacuum canister resivoir. The supply vacuum line runs from the check valve through the large rubber grommet on the fire wall behind the battery. The HVAC acuator is vacuum driven and located in the passenger compartment. The battery acid tends to destroy the hard plastic vacuum hoses that run in the wire bundles under the battery. I'd look there first. If you see any indication of metal corrosion below the battery, then you're leaking now or had a leak and probably cooked the vacuum lines. Mine was so bad, it ate all the plastic line below the battery. Replace with 1/8" emissions line and splices available at any auto store. Also, the lines run back to a check valve on the vacuum resivoir tank located at the back of the passenger fender well. Just remove the wheel well access panel to see all that. This check valve ($7.00 at the dealer) sometimes cracks and fails. Definite DIYer and parts are cheap. Good luck. If you're going to a dealer, have them check the vacuum lines and check valve first. Probably your problem.

 

Great Job, folks. After a some pm's from other posters,and more diligent searching, I found some old threads that had pictures and details enough to help my mechanic friend find the problem. He diagnosed the problem, but without a shop manual, the help garnered on this forum was outstanding.

As soon as we pulled the battery tray, found the dreaded acid leak and a broken vacuum line, a quick splice, clean the a/c udders while I was in there and a test run and everything is back to normal.

I just want to say thanks to all those helps. Without the info, I would have run the risk of getting taken by an unscrupulous shop or paying an unnecessary $60 to 70 for the repair if it had been correctly diagnosed. In addition I was able to clean and recoat the damage where the battery acid leak had occurred, learned more about my car and cleaned the udders which were very much in need of cleaning.