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From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
halo tails question...
Spent the better part of the day installing the halo LED tailights. I had amber euros and had to re-attach the white wire under the dash...what a PITA!...ended up soldering some spade connectors on about a 1/2 inch of wire!!! Anyway, I notice the halos flash very rapidly with the turn signal, however, with the hazard switched on, they are normal frequency. How can I slow down the flashes with the turn signal on? Are there some resistors I can make or buy?
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Going to be doing the same thing probably next week. I'll be watching this thread to see how the rapid flash problem is solved should it occur on mine.
Hope reconnecting the white wire under the dash goes a little easier for me.
Spent the better part of the day installing the halo LED tailights. I had amber euros and had to re-attach the white wire under the dash...what a PITA!...ended up soldering some spade connectors on about a 1/2 inch of wire!!! Anyway, I notice the halos flash very rapidly with the turn signal, however, with the hazard switched on, they are normal frequency. How can I slow down the flashes with the turn signal on? Are there some resistors I can make or buy?
They have built in resistors attached to the back of the lens(atleast the ones from Richard do)...you shouldn't be getting any hyperflash if you maintain 12 volts or above...if it dips below 12 volts, thats when people get the hyperflashing...
Spent the better part of the day installing the halo LED tailights. I had amber euros and had to re-attach the white wire under the dash...what a PITA!...ended up soldering some spade connectors on about a 1/2 inch of wire!!! Anyway, I notice the halos flash very rapidly with the turn signal, however, with the hazard switched on, they are normal frequency. How can I slow down the flashes with the turn signal on? Are there some resistors I can make or buy?
Some have found a weak battery will cause hyperflashing....I've had Halos for about a year now.....when I first got them they would intermittently hyperflash....
I noticed an issue with low voltage....replaced my battery with the new Sears Platinum (which I love btw) and havent had hyperflash problem since....
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
Originally Posted by JDs00PewterCoupe
Going to be doing the same thing probably next week. I'll be watching this thread to see how the rapid flash problem is solved should it occur on mine.
Hope reconnecting the white wire under the dash goes a little easier for me.
Oh that stinking white wire! Here's a few tips; If your knee bolster panel has a push on round Palnut clip to hold it on, they are a SOB to get off! Goes on easy at the assembly plant, comes off hard for the car owner. I used a crowbar (don't laugh!) to get it off! I was able to loosen it slightly with a flat blade screwdriver, then got the big tool under there to finish the job. My dad always said, "never send a boy to do a man's job". LOL. Why that stud is not a threaded fastener just baffles me...damn GM engineers were asleep on that one...
Once, you get that panel off the white wire can be seen...maybe 2-3 inches of it at the most. Mine was cut way to one end, so I didn't have much wire to work with. It is rough on your back and neck to lay under there more than a few minutes...make sure you put your seat back all the way and have something soft to kneel on near your door. I tried using one of those electrical snap together wire splicers, but that just didn't work. I ended up stripping off the wire ends and soldering on extensions (microsurgery would have been easier LOL) so I could use a quick disconnect if I ever wanted to go back to the Euro tailights which I am keeping because they are very nice with the independent brake light, turn signal feature. I wish you better luck than I had!
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03 thru '25
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Originally Posted by $$$frumnuttin'
Oh that stinking white wire! Here's a few tips; If your knee bolster panel has a push on round Palnut clip to hold it on, they are a SOB to get off! Goes on easy at the assembly plant, comes off hard for the car owner. I used a crowbar (don't laugh!) to get it off! I was able to loosen it slightly with a flat blade screwdriver, then got the big tool under there to finish the job. My dad always said, "never send a boy to do a man's job". LOL. Why that stud is not a threaded fastener just baffles me...damn GM engineers were asleep on that one...
Once, you get that panel off the white wire can be seen...maybe 2-3 inches of it at the most. Mine was cut way to one end, so I didn't have much wire to work with. It is rough on your back and neck to lay under there more than a few minutes...make sure you put your seat back all the way and have something soft to kneel on near your door. I tried using one of those electrical snap together wire splicers, but that just didn't work. I ended up stripping off the wire ends and soldering on extensions (microsurgery would have been easier LOL) so I could use a quick disconnect if I ever wanted to go back to the Euro tailights which I am keeping because they are very nice with the independent brake light, turn signal feature. I wish you better luck than I had!
Thanks for the tips. I'll be doing it hopefully this weekend.