I just installed my Halo LED tailights which I bought from Richard. big to him, awesome vendor!

the Halos are build so much better than the stock lights. just pick it up and you can tell. They have a huge resistor on the back of them to prevent hyperflash.

but its not quite working for my C5. I know that sometimes you can get hyperflash with halos if the voltage drops too low (such as for a few seconds when your cooling fans kick in) but I'm getting hyperflash constantly...on the right side only! The left side is fine with just the occasional hyperflash that I won't even worry about. what gives? how can one side do it and not the other? I checked the front turn signal bulb just in case and its fine.

At first I thought I would just ignore it especially since sometimes the hyperflash can look kinda cool, especially with LEDs. but I turned on the signals and looked at the back of the car and wow! that's gonna give someone a seizure or something, these lights are BRIGHT!

I think I'm going to do the somewhat cheesy light splice trick temporarily, just stick one of my old turn signal bulbs in there painted with black header paint and let it add the needed load. Ultimately I'm going to do the flasher swap mod which I received instructions from someone here about. I don't remember who it was, but great instructions! shows exactly how to bypass the stock flasher for purposes of the turn signals and make it use an aftermarket LED flasher instead. that will be in the next few weeks though. bulb splicing will get me through until then. it just seems very strange to see a car with hyper flash on only one side!

 

If you have the hyper flash only on one side, try replacing the front turn signal bulb on that side. It's a quick and inexpensive fix if it works. The light does not have to be burned out to cause the hyper flash. If it doesn't, I would recommend installing the extra light and leaving it that way. I had severe hyper flash and that has taken care of it completely. The flasher remedy is difficult and time consuming.

 

Also, double check the connection on the side that is hyperflashing. If the connection is not rock solid and clean it can happen. I used electrical tape to help make sure the connector is seated well and stays that way.

If the connections are good and your battery is good there should only be the occasional hyperflash during normal voltage drops under the right conditions.

 

[I don't remember who it was, but great instructions! shows exactly how to bypass the stock flasher for purposes of the turn signals and make it use an aftermarket LED flasher instead. that will be in the next few weeks though. bulb splicing will get me through until then. it just seems very strange to see a car with hyper flash on only one side![/QUOTE]

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I just did SUPRFUN's LED flasher swap and it was very easy to perform. By the time you splice in bulbs or resistors (that may fail as mine did) you can do the flasher swap and be done with it forever! Then you can just enjoy the

 

good to know. I need to get an order for LEDs but I'm not ready yet since I want to buy more than just that. Actually I want to modify the flasher swap mod if I can, I need to look at it in more detail

what is that wiring harness that you need to modify in order to do the flasher swap mod? is that the harness going into the turn signal switch? if that's the case I think I'm going to change it so that I can put in two separate flashers, one for the left and one for the right so I can get access to a constant 12V signal for the left and right signals. right now that signal doesn't exist anywhere, this mod would create it. I want to get that signal in order to redesign the DRL's to work the way I want them to.

 

If you have any questions on the flasher mod just let me know and I'll help you with it. It's very easy to do, getting the needed parts together(flasher plug and LED flasher) is the hardest part. I really can't understand why more people that have the hyper-flashing problem don't use this fix as it works perfectly and also enables you to install LED bulbs in the front without incurring the hyper-flashing problem.

 

When you do the LED flasher mod you only need one flasher for your turn signals, the new LED one you will be splicing in. The original flasher (in the dash) that used to operate your turn signals and your 4-ways will operate only the 4-ways after you do my mod and the LED flasher will operate the turn signals. Let me know if you have any questions. BTW if cutting two wires may be holding anyone back from doing this the two wires you will be cutting to splice in the LED flasher are in a short harness that is replaceable if you would ever want to do that. One end plugs into the flasher in the dash the other plugs in by the steering column as noted in my instructions. I personally can't see why you would want to but the harness can be purchased from any GM dealer for about $90 or so. If you were to decide to go back to the original OEM lights the LED flasher will operate them just fine also so there wouldn't really be much reason to change back to the original setup.

Mark

 

Mine also only hyper flashes on one side, the driver side, It also only starts after the car is warmed up for at a little bit and if i apply the brake.

 

I did that mod because i went with front LEDs, that is the best way to go.

 

If you would like the procedure and instructions I wrote up to install the LED flasher and also links to purchase the correct flasher send me an email and include the address you want me to send them to.
##mleave@chartermi.net##

 

^ now that is service.....

 

thanks for the info! I think I'm going to buy the same flasher you used from superbrightleds.com. where did you get the flasher harness? it looks just as easy to just put terminals on to the wires and plug them in but if the flasher plug is cheap enough I might get that.

the reason that I was thinking about doing two flashers is with some other mods in mind. I want to reconfigure the DRL's so that they have basically reverse operation. I want them off when all the car's lights are off, and I want them on when any other lights are on. basically to have bright front parking lights yet keep the turn signals working. I've thought up a bunch of different ways to do it, but all of them depend on having one particular signal from the car. one which is a constant 12V whenever the left turn signal is on, and one which is on whenever the right turn signal is on. this signal can't be flashing because the other ideas I have won't work if it is. now it would be easy to get this signal from the output of the turn signal switch but the factory setup is to have a single flasher unit in the turn signal path before the switch, so the output of the switch is already flashing. by removing the stock flasher all together and installing two separate flashers for each side I can tap into those wires before I reach the flashers and get the signal that I want. I'm not sure yet if that's what I'm going to do. but that's why I was thinking about going with two separate flashers. I need to look at my service manual's wiring diagrams to see what I need to do to make this work.

by the way, the flasher you used, the superbrightleds part number you specified in your writeup, does it make any sound when the signals work? I've never really liked that clicking sound they make and it would be just fine with me if that one were silent.

 

by the way for every else's benefit, here is a link to the superbrightleds LED flashers page
http://www.superbrightleds.com/flashers.htm

the one recommended by Suprfun is CF13GL-02
on that page if you click the link it has a pretty detailed data sheet for that flasher in Word format.

 

You can get the flasher plug (comes with about 9 inches of wiring) from just about any auto parts store.

The one I used does click just like the original. With us old guy’s if you can’t see it it helps if you can hear it! I think they do make one that is silent but I'm not sure. The way my lights work in front is as follows. I have clear corners with LED switchbacks installed in them. When the key is on the DRL's are the only lights on, they light up orange/yellow. When the parking or headlights are turned on the same light that was lit up orange/yellow as a DRL changes and lights up white. The side marker light is now on and is lit up orange/yellow, you could replace this bulb with a clear one if you wanted to change the look but I'm not sure of the legality of doing that. When you turn on the turn signal the light flashes from white to orange/yellow to indicate the turn. As far as your plan to go with separate flashers I would think it's possible you would just be isolating the circuits further to work with your plans.

Mark

 

mark,

have you ever thought of getting a few of the kits together and writing up some instructions and selling them as a kit?

i'm sure you could sell buttloads of them to members who want the simplest option without having to research and order all the parts themselves.

a complete step-by-step kit from you would be a great idea. maybe you and richard (c5vettels1) could go into business because he's already a vendor who is heavily into LED's.

jason

 

You don’t need a harness, I could not find one that fit locally, you can use blade crimp connectors.

 

This does sound like a great solution Jason Mark and myself are currently discussing such possibilities. Many thanks for the heads up
Richard

 

Something that can be plug and play between the OEM connectors would be idea for most people who do not want to cut and splice. However something like that would make the cost go up.

 

Understood, and thank you. We may be able to make the custom harnesses in-house at hopes of keeping costs down. We'll look at that first, then possibly look into out-sourcing if need be If we can find both connector ends that are used on GMs original harness, I think the we can probably remake the entire modified harness. We'll just locate the required parts, factor in labor, and push the numbers around to determine the practicality of such a project
Richard

 

Here is a pic I took of the harness disconnected, and I believe the wiring is the same for all C5s. I did not mine doing it myself by splicing, but if there was a plug and play solution I would have went that way.