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Does this thing actually work? I'm gonna wash my car today, and I don't know whether to clay bar it, or go with the 3M glaze again which did a great job in filling in swirl marks. I do feel some bumps and stuff at the surface, but what exactly does a clay bar do? and how do I go about using it: wash, clay, wash, wax? Also, whats better, the liquid clay bar (I have a buffer) or the bar itself?
The clay bar works really well at pulling impurities out of your clearcoat. I have never tried the liquid. The bar will make your finish as smooth as glass. It seems to work best with a quick detailer solution as opposed to using car wash soap. Do it right after you have washed your car. When you are done, you will have to wash again, and then you can do your glaze and waxing. I only do mine like 2 times a year, but my car doesn't get that dirty as it is never driven in the rain. It is worth the effort. Just a tip - split the bar into 2 pieces. If you drop it, you have to throw it away. If you split it up, if you drop it, then you have lost only 1/2.
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A clay bar is an abraisive, so don't use it all the time. I use it once every year at most. You will be surprised at the results. It takes tree sap, bird crap residue, fine dust, etc right off. Wash it well, then use the bar as per the instructions included with it. (The liquid works okay, but the clay is the best by far.) You will be able to feel a big difference in the smoothness. I use a quick detailer and wipe it down (or you can wash it again), and wax (I prefer Zaino). Be sure to get a good quality bar/lubricant, as it makes the job easier. It only takes about an hour to do the whole car (clay bar plus cleaning afterward). Sometimes it takes longer (do a fender, drink a beer, do the hood, drink a beer, etc)
Last edited by 99mallett; Aug 22, 2007 at 10:44 AM.
I will add here that others have posted that after using the clay bar, there were scratches in the paint. So I discussed this fact with a pro detailer this week. He feels you should be able to do the car in 15 minutes. Use a detailer spray. And here is the most important tip I came away with. Apply no pressure to the clay. Use your hand to only move the clay.
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Originally Posted by Dave1998
Apply no pressure to the clay. Use your hand to only move the clay.
As I said earlier it IS an abraisive so BE CAREFUL! Turn/fold it frequently, and make sure there are no 'big chunks' of anything in it. If you drop it on the ground, don't re use it.
I will add here that others have posted that after using the clay bar, there were scratches in the paint. So I discussed this fact with a pro detailer this week. He feels you should be able to do the car in 15 minutes. Use a detailer spray. And here is the most important tip I came away with. Apply no pressure to the clay. Use your hand to only move the clay.
Let us know how it worked
Dave
If you have substantial lubrication, there will be no need for pressure.
Here's how to tell if you need to clay your car and if it is working:
After a wash, take a lunch-size baggie and put it on your hand. Now run your hand on your car lightly. You will in all likelyhood feel some debris as you wipe.
Now follow the instructions to clay your car and repeat the baggie test. It will amaze you!
Be careful when using the Adam's grey one. It has its purpose but is much more agressive than the Clay Magic blue clay bar. For routine maintence I would use the blue one. I don't know if either mfg carries both. I used too much pressure using the grey bar and it left swirls in the paint. I agree use the detail spray or mild soap and water solution when using a claybar.
As an aside, I used the Turtlewax Liquid Claybar on my black 2001 T/A a couple of weeks ago. The paint is "distressed" due to the environment.
The liquid requires some light pressure on the foam application pad, but the result is gratifying. It doesn't replace a good claybar rub, however, but it will remove most environmental impurities from the clearcoat, allowing you to work on a clean, smooth surface for your choice of wax, IMHO.
Take a plastic bag and put your hand in it and rub accross your Vettes hood or body and feel the bumps and buildup!
If you dont feel "ANYTHING" and it is as smooth as a baby's butt then you do not need to Clay Bar it! But if it doesn't then Clay Bar it then do the plastic bag trick and FEEL the diff!
I just clay bar 'd my wifes taurus last week. It is a daily driver. The car is white ,so when your using the bar you can really see it picking up the crap that hand washing just won't clean. The car looked like new.
As all have stated the bar works great. Use plenty of lubricant, like a spray wax product. Don't let it dry, wipe it off as soon as bar slides freely over panel and you are ready to move on. You can buy a kit at Autozone, Pepboys Kragens, etc.
I took off heavy black paint overspray on the front of my motor home from when a neighbor painted his metal fence. A real eye opener for me on this product.
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A clay bar will make the paint feel silky smooth - just keep it lubricated and knead it often and it will really do a great job. Easy to use and will take all the contaminants off the paint.
As all have stated the bar works great. Use plenty of lubricant, like a spray wax product. Don't let it dry, wipe it off as soon as bar slides freely over panel and you are ready to move on. You can buy a kit at Autozone, Pepboys Kragens, etc.
I took off heavy black paint overspray on the front of my motor home from when a neighbor painted his metal fence. A real eye opener for me on this product.
Body shops use to use it .They called it overspray clay