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I posted this in general didn't seem like it belongs in tech. Anyways my car has swirl marks and some permanent watter spots is it true a good wet sanding can fix or at least make less noticeable these issues?
What type/grit do I use, do I need to use filtered watter? What is the method to do it? My car is a list of things that annoy me so I am collecting info and I am going to fix them one by one.
I did the rear deck on my 2000 Vert. Mine came out great, however, you'd better make sure you know what you're doing before taking that step.
Ten minutes after you start, you'll ask yourself if it'll take a complete repaint. I used a bucket of water to soak the paper and and taped any edges such as lip of rear facia before I followed with a power buffer/polisher. This is the part where you can cause damage in a heartbeat.
Wet sanding seems like a drastic way to start, that should be your last resort, not something you try first.
Things to try first:
1. A light polishing compound such as Zaino PC Fusion, Meguiars Scratch X, or other LIGHT compound of your choice.
2. Rubbing compound.
Only after those should you get out the sandpaper. Note that you will need to do #2 to get rid of the scratches from the sandpaper, and then you'll need to do #1 to get rid of the scratches from #2. Always start with the least abrasive, then work down to the more abrasive products only if you need to, and then work your way back up to polish the scratches back out.
Sounds like you might want to think about getting a buffer, but it's certainly possible to do by hand. Beware that this will take a LOT of elbow grease, though.....
I agree with the above poster, you'll get a much better response (and find a lot more existing info) in the Car Care forum......
You also asked about sandpaper grit..... You want something in the range of 1500 - 3000 grit. This is not the same sandpaper you find at Home Depot. My local AutoZone carries paper in the 1500 range. My local NAPA does not (the finest they had was 400). You might need to go to an auto paint supplier to find 3000 or higher grit.
Same deal here: start with the finest grain, work your way towards more abrasive until you get the scratches out, then work your way all they way back up to the PC Fusion polish again.
Also -- with sandpaper, you should use a polishing block. I have used a 400-grit sponge sanding block (also from AZ) and wrapped 1500-grit sandpaper around it (just used the sponge as a sanding block, not as 400-grit paper). You may find things like 1500-grit sponges that would do the trick too.
Once upon a time I spent a few years working in a paint shop. I would be really really careful wet sanding to remove swirl marks. I have done it many times to remove orange peel but extra clear had been applied in anticipation. I would image there are some pretty good buffing compounds out there today to choose from. Seems like a safer alternative.
Try just buffing out the paint before wetsanding, make sure you use a dual action buffer (porter cable or PC for short) not one of the cheap ones you see at walmart/autozone. Do some searching/reading over at autopia detailing forums there is a lot of relevant information there...
I would not attempt this on my own, or as others stated, until I had exhausted other alternatives.
That said - our '04 LMB had so many paint problems when purchased, and after exhausting all other alternatives, I paid a pro to do the wet sanding - best money I ever spent on making the Vette look 'right'
I wetsanded my Black C5 to get rid of a whole crapton of scratches and ridiculous orange peel on the vertical panels. It came out great, and I always got compliments on the paint.
You really do have to be careful though...if you are only out to remove scraches, try some aggresive polishes first, and "spot" wetsand areas as needed.
If your car has factory paint, I really don't think it will have the paint thickness in the clear to be wet sanding and buffing. You will buff right through it OR you will make the clear so thin that it will deteriorate rapidly. You will wind up needing a new paint job!
Get some polishing compound and an orbital buffer ie. porter cable. Do NOT use sand paper!! Just my $0.02!!
I had my '99 done by a pro in my driveway and it came out great.
First he wet sanded it and then buffed it out to a great shine.
Then I waxed it myself.
I posted this in general didn't seem like it belongs in tech. Anyways my car has swirl marks and some permanent watter spots is it true a good wet sanding can fix or at least make less noticeable these issues?
What type/grit do I use, do I need to use filtered watter? What is the method to do it? My car is a list of things that annoy me so I am collecting info and I am going to fix them one by one.
I've been there and done that! I did my entire Vette; I used 2000 grit, it took 7 sheets I soaked each sheet in oil water, find your self a platic bottle with a pull top (used for water) you will need a foam blocking pad you'll need to cut each sheet to fit your foam blocking pad leave a little to go around your pad and will be under your palm, take your time, water and sand then remove the sadpaper block the water away, you want it to look smooth without any shiny spots or areas... Be careful around all edges stay beside all edges and you'll do just fine... I would recommend finding a very good buffer variable speed not the cheap two handled ones found at Wal-Mart, find a good Snap-on buffer you will then need to find some good fine cut to buff it all out before you buff in the wax... I used Mirror Glaze fine cut this worked great... Then just use the wax of your choice... I finally got rid of the orange peel look... Hope this helps
I had acid rain marks and some long scratches on the hood when I bought the car. I started with 1200 wet sandpaper removing the major defects. then I went over the entire hood with 2000 wet paper. I buffed using 3M Perfect it II compound first at 1800 Rpm with a SMOOTH blue Schlegel pad. Then buffed again (same setup) with Perfect it 3000 compound 2200-2500 RPM's, it came out MINT, but it was a lot of work. I buffed the rest of the car, it's a 2 day weekend job by the time you wetsand the bad spots, buff the car, wash it twice to remove compound and then wax it. Lay in a good supply of your favorite beer, you'll need it!
I just got a "cut and buff" from a local body shop to get rid of all of the swirls and crap from this summer for $200. It came out great and all I had to do was dial the phone.
Definitely a very drastic first step.
A PC7424 is a very user friendly tool and great to have. It's not nearly as good as a rotary, but pretty much idiot proof. Try an orange pad and something like Menzerna IP polish.
Or hire somebody who knows what they are doing with a rotary. A rotary in the right hands can accomplish amazing things.
If your car has factory paint, I really don't think it will have the paint thickness in the clear to be wet sanding and buffing. You will buff right through it OR you will make the clear so thin that it will deteriorate rapidly. You will wind up needing a new paint job!
Get some polishing compound and an orbital buffer ie. porter cable. Do NOT use sand paper!! Just my $0.02!!
THIS IS MY TWO CENTS! As stated I have already completed this task, GM put a lot of clear on the Corvettes this is why you will notice a lot of orange peel... My 1999 Corvette looks great under any type of lighting conditions, it has been in and out of the Sun for many years now, with no issues...If he is the type of Man that is confident in his abilities without setting limitations and hates to pay other people to do things that he is fully capable of doing, as I am; Then I say go for it, this is not rocket science... I fully stand behind my first post and state it is not bad for your Vette and will look great, just take your time, good luck to you Sir, you will feel good after you've completed knowing you done it yourself!!!!
THIS IS MY TWO CENTS! As stated I have already completed this task, GM put a lot of clear on the Corvettes this is why you will notice a lot of orange peel... My 1999 Corvette looks great under any type of lighting conditions, it has been in and out of the Sun for many years now, with no issues...If he is the type of Man that is confident in his abilities without setting limitations and hates to pay other people to do things that he is fully capable of doing, as I am; Then I say go for it, this is not rocket science... I fully stand behind my first post and state it is not bad for your Vette and will look great, just take your time, good luck to you Sir, you will feel good after you've completed knowing you done it yourself!!!!
I do like doing things myself but I dont have anywhere to do it (garage has a bunch of crap in it from my parents) so my other option is the street in front of my house. If it is 200 bucks that isnt that bad really considering a good detail costs that much. I really wish I could do it myself but I dont have a good buffer (good ones are about 200 bucks) So i still come out ahead paying someone now just to find someone in the phx area to do it.