Good day everyone. I have a question. I am finally getting close to installing a bunch of audio/video stuff in my C5. The last piece of the puzzle would be a capacitor for my setup ( I am thinking I just need one??). I will be changing all interior speakers with JL components in fornt and JL 6.5 in rear, as well as two ID 10" subs in a custom box in the rear compartment and two MBQuartz amps (one 1000 watt amp and another 1000 watt amp 4 channel) as well as a Pioneer DVIC-D2 (with bluetooth, etc) and a DVD player.

Any ideas as to what else I would need and or what type of capacitor (specific units) I should get that you guys have used?

I am also in the process of dynomating the entire car which should help a bunch...hopefully. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

you might want to check the depth on the rear 6.5's
I had to go with a shallow mount as there isnt much room

DO the big three up grade
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=245&TopicID=1

You should also ask this is the audio section. Alot more people there to answer your questions.

 

welcome to my world nearly a year ago.

If you haven't already purchased the dynamat, I'd consider second skin's damplifier pro first. It's less expensive and more effective in my opinion (I've used both and favor Damplifier pro) Dynamat is a good product but most of what you're paying for is the name brand. I found this out AFTER i bought two bulk packs of it.

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibra...lifier-pro.php

Also look here for a good test on deadening
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

Do do the major parts of the car, you'll need ~80 sq ft

Wear gloves inless you like bleeding and A small rubber roller from your local hardare store will help. Those small one-hand rollers are pointless.


If you have or plan to get aftermarket exhaust, I'd also look into second skin's noise absorption foam both open and closed cell. It works wonders with my borla reducing interior noise to 70dB at idle (most of this is very low frequency)

Capacitors: their intended purpose is to stabilize and filter power. make sure you have a good battery and your alternator can provide the power for your system. If you're running more than 800 watts of RMS power, you may want to look into an upgraded alternator. The mexican built corvette alternator has a 140 amp capacity and is good for most audio systems. The French made Valeo is good for 110 amps and will support systems in the < 500 watt range.

In the past, i've used Rockford Fosgate capacitors and my Current one is an SPL Series 3-farad capacitor. This particular model doesn't have easily accesable terminals like the RF caps but it was the only 3 farad cap I could find that was a can style design. I'd avoid the square shaped caps that claim 10+ farads, they just suck up power.



If you're using coaxials on the rear, you should be fine. The left-rear speaker compartment shares space with the fuel tank nozzle. You CAN fit a large magnet speaker in there but it requires the use of a speaker ring. I used 3/4" MDF but in hindsight, 1/2" would have been a better choice.

 

You might also want to check out tsunamionline.com. If you watch Unique Whips on the Speed Channel, they use Tsunami products quite often.

 

A new battery (Optima) and the Big three is all you will need. If you have to have a cap because you want to show it off, then get the one you think looks the coolest. It won't be needed, just wanted.

 

Don't have a clue what ur sayin.
.
better get meee a professional to do mine. yea, put me one of them loud, blastin stereo's in my car.
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I can't make up my mind..do I want low loud, medium loud or loud loud.
.
.. .. .. .. ..
.

 

I compared samples of D'amplifier Pro to Dynamat Xtreme, and though there are so close to being the same thickness (you'll need micrometers to see the difference)... the D'Amplifier Pro is much denser and heavier.

And for high power sound installations... that's exactly what you want

If I remember accurately, the D'Amp Pro also withstood much higher heat than did the Dynamat Xtreme.

This doesn't mean the Dynamat isn't good... just that there are other options available.

 

The stock alt can handle a lot. I wouldnt bother wth a cap unless your just going for the blin factor. After you get everything hooked up, see if your alt is keeping up ok. If not, then look into a cap, my guess is youll be fine.

 

There's a common misconception that caps are pretty much pointless. They do in fact serve a real purpose.

This is an example of a sound system during a brief musical burst. Even a healthy charging system that could easily support a large audio setup will be briefly overwhelmed by the needfor sudden power. This is where the cap comes in.



Here's 3 basic things to remember when wiring:

#1 would be the wiring from the battery to the amps.
I try to advocate even overkill on your main power wiring, as affordable wiring supplies are out there.
Use the largest gauge wiring that you can. Using "appropriately sized" wire is good, but "going overkill" with even larger gauge wire is simply even better.
It's fundamental to your install, it's your most "gotta have it" type of thing, and overkill now will not only support tomorrow's upgrades, but arguably provide a more ideal supply for your amps now.
It's easy to find power wiring surprisingly inexpensively online.

#2 would definitely be the "big three" as they are called, mostly because they are so inexpensive to do, and can often yield a noticable improvement. A tip, as you are replacing or augmenting (There's no need to flat out replace, after all) these three wires, do everything you can to ensure clean, bare-metal on bare-metal solid and secure connections.
Remember that "paint is an insulator". Take a wire wheel and chuck it up in a drill to clean any paint off your ground points.
These are cheap and easy upgrades.

#3 would be to add a capacitor or three.
You might have different needs for "why" and "where" though...
Capacitors installed near the amp can help your amp with that brief transient time when you do exceed your alternator's current capacity, and the extra current is drawn from a relatively slow-responding battery... the relatively lightning fast cap can fill in here.
Capacitors installed near the battery up front can help filter noise more effectively, and even still help with the current flow situation.
Capacitors will also help minimize light dimmage, even if none will eliminate it.
These are relatively small, low cost devices, with low installation effort, and without negative side effects, placing it high on my list.

Side note: You may want to avoid those large, square style capacitors that seem to offer huge amounts of capacitance. These are not electrolytic capacitors, but rather carbon-type capacitors, which have more ESR (internal resistance) than the more common round-style electrolytic counterparts. This ESR is harmful - it slows the flow of current from the cap, nullifying the benefit of much of that capacitance. Not to mention, it makes them more expensive, and less beneficial to your electrical system. I recommend sticking with the simple and inexpensive round electrolytic caps.

 

Caps do serve a purpose - discharging during a bass heavy hit, then raping your electrical system during the next bass heavy hit, competing with the amplifier for power as it tries to charge itself.

 

kale, you have a point... how annoying

Has anyone come across the recharge rate of a capacitor? graphs?

 

 

Mods..could I have this thread moved to the audio section for there input as well? I appreciate all of your input here as well.