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Bend Pak Lift Owners - Step inside

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Old 11-21-2007, 06:29 PM
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Mordi
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Default Bend Pak Lift Owners - Step inside

After doing some research, I am contemplating purchasing the Bend Pak HD-9-B Model lift. This is a 4 post, 9000 lb, wide model version.

I am considering going with the 220V motor vs the 110V version. Anyone have the 220V model? Do I need to have a compressor and compressed air lines to operate this lift? Has anyone ordered any of the options offered for this lift, such as the rolling bridge jack, sliding jack platform or casters? (After I get the lift in the right location, I do not anticipate moving it, so do I need casters?) How heavy are the removable ramps? Am I going to get a "killer" trying to remove them

Thanks,
Mordi
Old 11-21-2007, 07:06 PM
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LMBZ4ME
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Hi Mordi,

I have the Bend Pak HD9. I have only had it a few months and I am very satisfied. I ordered it from http://www.gesusa.com and installed it myself with a buddy. I opted for the 110v version only because I did not have 220 in my garage.

Yes, you will need a compressor to release the locks. The lift cannot be lowered without the compressor. The lift has 2 sets of locks one of which needs the air. I like this feature and think of it as added safety. The only option I ordered was the drip trays. I was fortunate enough to have a friend who has the casters, so I borrowed his to do my final positioning. The lift has not budged since. The ramps that come with the lift weigh about 35lbs or so each. The way they attach is not something you want to take on and off each time you use it. I keep my ramps on all the time and still have plenty of room to drive underneath. They do sell optional aluminum ramps that are light weight and easy to move around if you decide to go this route but they are kind of pricey.

--Mike
Old 11-21-2007, 07:11 PM
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hotwheels57
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I have the same lift in my shop. Your selection is a good one as the narrower HD9 is to narrow for a C5/Z06. Your tires would be right at the edge of the runways and they'll come close to the cross member gussets, a potential for tire damage. With the wider version, you'll have a good 3" on either side of the runways. I use a convex mirror and an old bathroom door mirror to help align the car on the lift.
This is my second four post lift and third lift I've owned. I purchased it specifically for my Z16. I wanted the secondary air locking system. I have a 220v 60 gallon/6 horsepower lift as I use lots of air tools, but you don't need that big of a compressor. You need enough capacity to operate the air locks. A small compressor will work just fine. Of coarse, a big air compressor is a nice tool around a shop.
I wanted the 220v rather than the 110v as I use my lift a lot and it's much more efficient to use 220v. I have 25 feet of power cord so I can move my lift outside the shop if I want. I have three 220v power sources in my shop.
I have the drip trays which I don't use and don't think they're necessary unless you have a leaker and plan to store a vehicle beneath. I have the caster kit which I have used to get the lift exactly where I want it. If you don't plan on moving the lift, then the caster kit isn't necessary. I thought that my lift was where I wanted it, but have moved it around twice since. I do not plan to permanently mount my lift into concrete, so the caster kit is handy to have. I have the adjustable sliding jack tray. It will work for the narrowed or wider runway positions on the HD9. I reversed it so the bottle jack sits lower in the C-channel, allowing for a lower car like a Corvette. Otherwise, the bottle jack would sit to high to lift a Corvette.
I also have an under hoist oil drain container on casters and a 2 ton tripod under hoist screw jack. I already had a heavy duty transmission/rear axle hydraulic jack, so I can perform just about any work I can think of with my lift. I decided to use the standard supplied steel ramps on my lift. They hinge downward as the lift rises. They act as tire chocks when angled down. My shop is 33 feet deep so I don't worry about leaving them in place and they are very heavy. The removable ramps, if aluminum, should weigh significantly less, maybe 20# each if that. It's nice not having to remove/replace even lightweight aluminum ramps when I use my lift. BEND PAK does provide four brackets that keep the standard steel ramps in a permanent horizontal position if you prefer. I wanted the ramps to hinge though.
I elected to have my lift delivered and installed by a BEND PAK certified installer. He had the lift done in about 3 hours. The professional installation and delivery cost me $250 extra. It also relieved my home owners insurance carrier of any concerns about a DIY installation. I watched the installers of all three of my lifts. It's not rocket science to install your own, but it does involve very heavy lifting and some mechanical skills to assemble. Many members have installed their own lifts.
http://s114.photobucket.com/albums/n...Z16/my%20shop/

Last edited by hotwheels57; 11-21-2007 at 07:21 PM.

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