Projector Retrofit 2-The Sequel
He was the first to get his done and the results were GREAT
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1866915
My parts are just arriving.
The donor OEM housings arrived Monday

and I used a band saw today to slice off the front fluted lens. Pardon all the blue tape, it is to protect the fragile reflective coating

My Valeo projectors arrived today. They were built for HID and came from an Audi

The good news is the projector can be split in two parts at the mount flange separating the reflector part from the lens of the projectors.

Between these halves is the cut off screen

I am a bit concerned.
In the middle of the projector, where the mounts are, the housing is kind of an oval and will require a cut out in the reflector of about 3.5" x 2.5". This will be pretty tight on the 3.5" to fit the projector in the same plane as the original bulb mount without cutting into the existing mounting tabs on the back that holds the OEM reflector assembly to the vette. But won't know more until I start cutting later this weekend.

Thanks to all who offered advice
So the sequel will continue in a day or so
Last edited by jrprich; Nov 21, 2007 at 09:43 PM.





the one thing i'd suggest you do is to spray paint the reflective coating in the housing black.
since you're switching to a projector bulb, you don't need the shiny bits...unless you like it.
i had a choice of black or chrome with my ACAs and i chose black because i think it makes the projectors look more distinctive.
chrome:

black:
the one thing i'd suggest you do is to spray paint the reflective coating in the housing black.
since you're switching to a projector bulb, you don't need the shiny bits...unless you like it.
i had a choice of black or chrome with my ACAs and i chose black because i think it makes the projectors look more distinctive.

To make sure everything lines up, I would measure, mark and drill your mounting holes First, then use that as a guide to cut out the hole for the projector. To make the aiming as easy as possible, try to make sure the projector mounting plane is parallel to the high beam bulb holder. This was my point of reference and significantly reduce the need for aiming adjustments.
The reflector is rather strong. I think it's chrome plated plastic or somthing similar. The tape is not nessicary to protect it however it will make a perfect place to mark for your mounting holes. I really hate you for having only 4in of back mounting. Also the shape of your reflector will significantly reduce the amount of trimming required.
Looking Good
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To make sure everything lines up, I would measure, mark and drill your mounting holes First, then use that as a guide to cut out the hole for the projector. To make the aiming as easy as possible, try to make sure the projector mounting plane is parallel to the high beam bulb holder. This was my point of reference and significantly reduce the need for aiming adjustments.
The reflector is rather strong. I think it's chrome plated plastic or something similar. The tape is not necessary to protect it however it will make a perfect place to mark for your mounting holes. I really hate you for having only 4in of back mounting. Also the shape of your reflector will significantly reduce the amount of trimming required.
Looking Good
What about the post I pointed to ?
I am going to start small with the hole in the reflector and work outwards until the projector back fits through the reflector. Then I can align the back of the projector with the angle plane of the high beams better BEFORE I drill the 4 mount holes. The first one done is ALWAYS the most time consuming.


Better to cut less and use the Dremel sander more
Also, aligning the new projector on both axis is a problem
but I remembered an old tool I haven't used for years that will be a lot of help

But once aligned, there is no way to hold it in alignment when you flip it over to drill the mount holes
So my plan is to remove all the blue tape on the projector side,
Clean and reassemble the entire projector
Slip the projector into the housing and place bubble wrap inside the cavity and between the projector and the table top to provide pressure on the projector.
Clamp the housing to the table and carefully align both axis with my gage.
Once aligned I will fill the gaps between the housing and projector with High Temp RTV Silicone and let it dry. This should hold it in the proper alignment so I can flip it over and drill the mount holes.
What do you think ? Time to start drinking before dinner
What about the post I pointed to ?
I am going to start small with the hole in the reflector and work outwards until the projector back fits through the reflector. Then I can align the back of the projector with the angle plane of the high beams better BEFORE I drill the 4 mount holes. The first one done is ALWAYS the most time consuming.

bolt holes) Using the dremel sanding attachment will give you far more control than the spiral cutter. Thankfully you're "overshoot: can be filled in with silcone sealent which is flexable enough to allow for adjustment but will keep the seal watertight.





lots of razor sharp metal in there and I bleed a bit
Then I reassembled and set the projector inside the OEM headlight reflector, packed bubble pack between it and the table and clamped it all to the table. This trick allows me to keep pressure on the projector inside the reflector and still be able to move it side to side and up and down. This allows matching up the axis with the high beam side.
This takes a lot of patience
Once done I filled the gaps with Hi Temp RTV to hold it in the correct axis positions. I will allow this to set overnight as my garage is about 58 degrees today.Not very pretty......
but it should work


More tomorrow












