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[Z06] Resurface or not
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 2
From: Seven Devils NC
Resurface or not
Putting a new RAM clutch in my 02 z06 this week and not sure if i should resurface the stock flywheel or get a new one... The stock one has about 25K on it and is smooth to the touch with no pits or scars but does seem to have some bluing due to heat. Is it ok to resurface these? How much can you take um down and be safe? Maybe I can just scuff this one without taking any off.... Let me know your thoughts..
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,186
Likes: 2
From: Woodinville WA
You could opt to pay a little more and go with a lightweight aluminum flywheel. It's like bolting on 7-10 rwhp/tq throughout the entire RPM range. I've got one and its nice and streetable.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 5,403
Likes: 31
From: Allentown PA & Elk Twp NJ HPDE Addict
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax VA
To resurface or not to resurface, that is NOT the question ...
With nearly 60K miles and a couple of track days on my own normally aspirated, lightly modified 02Z, I'm also facing the near-term eventuality of replacing my OEM clutch and dealing with my flywheel. Worst case, and in the interest of saving some bucks without rolling the dice with a potential R&R of the new clutch assembly a couple of K miles down the road, I'll have it mic'd, and if it passes, have it resurfaced.
But considering the trouble (if not cost) of labor in a clutch R&R, I'll probably bite the bullet and replace the OEM flywheel, either going lighter to alumunum, or to an innovative design such as the Cyn-R-G rebuildable flywheel engineered by RPS. Whatever I (and you) do, it should not be done without having the entire rotating assembly balanced before you undertake the installation.
As a point of reference, I have a hand-me-down Cyn-R-G flywheel sourced from another generous Forum member who had "boosted" his car to more than 600 RWHP and "outgrown" it. RPS offers to replace the pucks on this flywheel (check out the RPS site for the technical specs) for $125 (plus shipping) and to balance any clutch assembly (your RAM, or a Spec, a Centerforce, etc.) sent along with it at no additional cost. The point is not so much to extole the reasonable cost of this exercise, but the fact that RPS strongly emphasized the necessity of balancing the entire rotating assembly.
Good luck with your RAM clutch R&R ... but before you tackle the job, understand that saving a few bucks on the out-of-the box cost of a RAM versus investing more $$$ in a Spec Stage 2+ or 3+, or an RPS, ignoring the necessity of resurfacing or replacing the flywheel, or failing to balance the clutch parts and flywheel as a unit, may prove to be problematic, if not substantially more expensive, in the long run.
But considering the trouble (if not cost) of labor in a clutch R&R, I'll probably bite the bullet and replace the OEM flywheel, either going lighter to alumunum, or to an innovative design such as the Cyn-R-G rebuildable flywheel engineered by RPS. Whatever I (and you) do, it should not be done without having the entire rotating assembly balanced before you undertake the installation.
As a point of reference, I have a hand-me-down Cyn-R-G flywheel sourced from another generous Forum member who had "boosted" his car to more than 600 RWHP and "outgrown" it. RPS offers to replace the pucks on this flywheel (check out the RPS site for the technical specs) for $125 (plus shipping) and to balance any clutch assembly (your RAM, or a Spec, a Centerforce, etc.) sent along with it at no additional cost. The point is not so much to extole the reasonable cost of this exercise, but the fact that RPS strongly emphasized the necessity of balancing the entire rotating assembly.
Good luck with your RAM clutch R&R ... but before you tackle the job, understand that saving a few bucks on the out-of-the box cost of a RAM versus investing more $$$ in a Spec Stage 2+ or 3+, or an RPS, ignoring the necessity of resurfacing or replacing the flywheel, or failing to balance the clutch parts and flywheel as a unit, may prove to be problematic, if not substantially more expensive, in the long run.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 2
From: Seven Devils NC
boy
With nearly 60K miles and a couple of track days on my own normally aspirated, lightly modified 02Z, I'm also facing the near-term eventuality of replacing my OEM clutch and dealing with my flywheel. Worst case, and in the interest of saving some bucks without rolling the dice with a potential R&R of the new clutch assembly a couple of K miles down the road, I'll have it mic'd, and if it passes, have it resurfaced.
But considering the trouble (if not cost) of labor in a clutch R&R, I'll probably bite the bullet and replace the OEM flywheel, either going lighter to alumunum, or to an innovative design such as the Cyn-R-G rebuildable flywheel engineered by RPS. Whatever I (and you) do, it should not be done without having the entire rotating assembly balanced before you undertake the installation.
As a point of reference, I have a hand-me-down Cyn-R-G flywheel sourced from another generous Forum member who had "boosted" his car to more than 600 RWHP and "outgrown" it. RPS offers to replace the pucks on this flywheel (check out the RPS site for the technical specs) for $125 (plus shipping) and to balance any clutch assembly (your RAM, or a Spec, a Centerforce, etc.) sent along with it at no additional cost. The point is not so much to extole the reasonable cost of this exercise, but the fact that RPS strongly emphasized the necessity of balancing the entire rotating assembly.
Good luck with your RAM clutch R&R ... but before you tackle the job, understand that saving a few bucks on the out-of-the box cost of a RAM versus investing more $$$ in a Spec Stage 2+ or 3+, or an RPS, ignoring the necessity of resurfacing or replacing the flywheel, or failing to balance the clutch parts and flywheel as a unit, may prove to be problematic, if not substantially more expensive, in the long run.
But considering the trouble (if not cost) of labor in a clutch R&R, I'll probably bite the bullet and replace the OEM flywheel, either going lighter to alumunum, or to an innovative design such as the Cyn-R-G rebuildable flywheel engineered by RPS. Whatever I (and you) do, it should not be done without having the entire rotating assembly balanced before you undertake the installation.
As a point of reference, I have a hand-me-down Cyn-R-G flywheel sourced from another generous Forum member who had "boosted" his car to more than 600 RWHP and "outgrown" it. RPS offers to replace the pucks on this flywheel (check out the RPS site for the technical specs) for $125 (plus shipping) and to balance any clutch assembly (your RAM, or a Spec, a Centerforce, etc.) sent along with it at no additional cost. The point is not so much to extole the reasonable cost of this exercise, but the fact that RPS strongly emphasized the necessity of balancing the entire rotating assembly.
Good luck with your RAM clutch R&R ... but before you tackle the job, understand that saving a few bucks on the out-of-the box cost of a RAM versus investing more $$$ in a Spec Stage 2+ or 3+, or an RPS, ignoring the necessity of resurfacing or replacing the flywheel, or failing to balance the clutch parts and flywheel as a unit, may prove to be problematic, if not substantially more expensive, in the long run.
Boy.... got me nervous now... Did not even know you should balance the entire setup... is this just a good step or a required step... It seems I would see more about issues of not balancing the setup posted on here...
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,186
Likes: 2
From: Woodinville WA
You should always have your clutch assembly checked for proper balance and adjusted if necessary before installing. You wouldn't put new tires on without balancing, and the clutch is way more of a pain in the *** to get to than tires if something is out of whack
