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Hello fellow CF members. I dont know if im the only one but im having a hard time trying to get my passenger bolt to turn. My dad tried to turn it but he didnt want to apply to much force as he didnt want to strip it. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did/do you solve it. Thanks
Jake
ps i have already done the back just need to get the front
I believe the fronts turn the opposite of the rear to lower. Make sure you're turning it the right way. Jack/with pad under the front leaf spring as recommended above.
In addition to taking pressure off the bushings with a jack...use PB BLASTER and a flat metal SPACKLE knife. Spray the rubber bushings liberally and work the blade under the rubber bushings. If the bolts are not seized/rusted inside the spring, once the bushings are free from the control arm, you should be able to adjust them by hand. Apply white lithium grease to the bottom of the bushings so future adjustments will be easier.
In addition to taking pressure off the bushings with a jack...use PB BLASTER and a flat metal SPACKLE knife. Spray the rubber bushings liberally and work the blade under the rubber bushings. If the bolts are not seized/rusted inside the spring, once the bushings are free from the control arm, you should be able to adjust them by hand. Apply white lithium grease to the bottom of the bushings so future adjustments will be easier.
Hi hotwheels57 -
That is exactly what you need to do.
I also use a six point craftsman 10mm combo wrench.
I seperated the upper ball joint on the drivers side to drop the spring
Seems most do the upper ball joint for whatever reason. I havn't looked in there yet to see what the advantage/disadvantages differences are in separating top or bottom. I would think doing the bottom one would be easier and then wouldn't have to let the whole hub assy drop down then.
i jacked up the leaf spring to lessen the pressure and it still didnt work. Ill try what hotwheels said to do. just got back from the casino and the last thing i want to do is work on my car. wasnt a good day at the blackjack tables for me. Ill get it done tomorrow.
Seems most do the upper ball joint for whatever reason. I havn't looked in there yet to see what the advantage/disadvantages differences are in separating top or bottom. I would think doing the bottom one would be easier and then wouldn't have to let the whole hub assy drop down then.
If I remember correctly, it doesn't make much of a difference in the front, but in the back it's easier to remove the upper ball join. The half shaft runs directly over the lower nut in the rear and makes it impossible to get an allen wrench on the bolt.... That's the way I do it.
As long as you lay a thin piece of rubber insulation in there otherwise its gonna squeek like a mother...
But using the C6 bolts (they don't have rubber bushings on them at all) in place of the C5 bolts will be just as good and still allow for some adjustment if needed some day in the future.
You can remove the fronts ones, NOT the rear ones! That'll slam it for sure. Well, unless your car is like mine...cut the front bushings and rear bushings and it only sits as low as most guys who lower on the bolts w/o cutting. Your results may vary.
Just remember if you lower it at all on stock bolts or no bolts you cannot use the stock shocks as they will bottom out. Lots of people still use stock shocks, but the ride will be like crap most of the time and handle crazy when they bottom out.
Just remember if you lower it at all on stock bolts or no bolts you cannot use the stock shocks as they will bottom out. Lots of people still use stock shocks, but the ride will be like crap most of the time and handle crazy when they bottom out.
I do still have my stock shocks with it lowered and it seems to handle just fine even at xxx mph and through twisties high speeds, but I can tell they do bottom out even on very small bumps so I just ordered Bilstein sports as they work just fine with lowered C5's. $300 for 4 shipped. Some guys go with Konis also. Some guys are going with full coilovers and getting rid of the stock springs for a little under under 2 grand. I was tempted to go with those but am gonna do a cam/header upgrade instead for that money.
Last edited by briann510; Dec 11, 2007 at 08:01 PM.