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[Z06] problem lowering car

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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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Default problem lowering car

Hello fellow CF members. I dont know if im the only one but im having a hard time trying to get my passenger bolt to turn. My dad tried to turn it but he didnt want to apply to much force as he didnt want to strip it. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did/do you solve it. Thanks
Jake

ps i have already done the back just need to get the front
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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Use a jack to lift up the leaf spring. This will reduce the load on the bolt and make it easier to turn.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by dbirdz06
Use a jack to lift up the leaf spring. This will reduce the load on the bolt and make it easier to turn.


If you turn the bolts w/o releasing the spring tension the rubber pads can be damaged.
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Old Dec 8, 2007 | 11:13 PM
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Hopefully that will solve your problem. One of mine were actually seized and i had to remove the entire spring to get the stock bolt loose.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 12:07 AM
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I believe the fronts turn the opposite of the rear to lower. Make sure you're turning it the right way. Jack/with pad under the front leaf spring as recommended above.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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In addition to taking pressure off the bushings with a jack...use PB BLASTER and a flat metal SPACKLE knife. Spray the rubber bushings liberally and work the blade under the rubber bushings. If the bolts are not seized/rusted inside the spring, once the bushings are free from the control arm, you should be able to adjust them by hand. Apply white lithium grease to the bottom of the bushings so future adjustments will be easier.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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both of those guys are right also. I used anti-seize on my new bolts when put them in.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTBLACKLS6
both of those guys are right also. I used anti-seize on my new bolts when put them in.
After spraying mine with rust buster just in case, 30 minutes later I turned both with my fingers.


Did you use a spring spreading tool or separate the upper or lower ball joint to replace the bolt??

Last edited by briann510; Dec 9, 2007 at 12:52 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hotwheels57
In addition to taking pressure off the bushings with a jack...use PB BLASTER and a flat metal SPACKLE knife. Spray the rubber bushings liberally and work the blade under the rubber bushings. If the bolts are not seized/rusted inside the spring, once the bushings are free from the control arm, you should be able to adjust them by hand. Apply white lithium grease to the bottom of the bushings so future adjustments will be easier.
Hi hotwheels57 -

That is exactly what you need to do.

I also use a six point craftsman 10mm combo wrench.

best regards

mqqn
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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I seperated the upper ball joint on the drivers side to drop the spring
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by FASTBLACKLS6
I seperated the upper ball joint on the drivers side to drop the spring
Seems most do the upper ball joint for whatever reason. I havn't looked in there yet to see what the advantage/disadvantages differences are in separating top or bottom. I would think doing the bottom one would be easier and then wouldn't have to let the whole hub assy drop down then.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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i jacked up the leaf spring to lessen the pressure and it still didnt work. Ill try what hotwheels said to do. just got back from the casino and the last thing i want to do is work on my car. wasnt a good day at the blackjack tables for me. Ill get it done tomorrow.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by briann510
Seems most do the upper ball joint for whatever reason. I havn't looked in there yet to see what the advantage/disadvantages differences are in separating top or bottom. I would think doing the bottom one would be easier and then wouldn't have to let the whole hub assy drop down then.
If I remember correctly, it doesn't make much of a difference in the front, but in the back it's easier to remove the upper ball join. The half shaft runs directly over the lower nut in the rear and makes it impossible to get an allen wrench on the bolt.... That's the way I do it.
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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i say remove front bolts altogether
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Old Dec 9, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 03aaron
i say remove front bolts altogether
As long as you lay a thin piece of rubber insulation in there otherwise its gonna squeek like a mother...

But using the C6 bolts (they don't have rubber bushings on them at all) in place of the C5 bolts will be just as good and still allow for some adjustment if needed some day in the future.
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Old Dec 10, 2007 | 11:19 PM
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can i remove both the front and rear bolts? if so how low will it sit after everything settles? thanks
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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You can remove the fronts ones, NOT the rear ones! That'll slam it for sure. Well, unless your car is like mine...cut the front bushings and rear bushings and it only sits as low as most guys who lower on the bolts w/o cutting. Your results may vary.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 02:11 AM
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Just remember if you lower it at all on stock bolts or no bolts you cannot use the stock shocks as they will bottom out. Lots of people still use stock shocks, but the ride will be like crap most of the time and handle crazy when they bottom out.
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by briann510
Just remember if you lower it at all on stock bolts or no bolts you cannot use the stock shocks as they will bottom out. Lots of people still use stock shocks, but the ride will be like crap most of the time and handle crazy when they bottom out.
What shocks do you recommend?
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Old Dec 11, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 03aaron
What shocks do you recommend?
I do still have my stock shocks with it lowered and it seems to handle just fine even at xxx mph and through twisties high speeds, but I can tell they do bottom out even on very small bumps so I just ordered Bilstein sports as they work just fine with lowered C5's. $300 for 4 shipped. Some guys go with Konis also. Some guys are going with full coilovers and getting rid of the stock springs for a little under under 2 grand. I was tempted to go with those but am gonna do a cam/header upgrade instead for that money.

Last edited by briann510; Dec 11, 2007 at 08:01 PM.
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