This is what is believed to be a "transistor" I am not %100 but it’s what I was told. Its part of a headlamp control module from my 98 C5. This one pictured is bad and I’m looking for someone that knows where I can find this part. I have Googled it with no luck, went to radio shack with no luck. Does anyone know? Thanks for your help in advance!

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just order a new board?

 

Sure, if I wasn't a hands on guy and liked to fix things before throwing money out of the window- yes. Its about a $1 part compared to a $200+ board.

 

The N symbol refers to the manufacturer.
9744 is the device number, and I don't know what the other numbers and letters represent. I doubt that it is a transistor, but a SCR. You can try Newark Electronics, You won't find this at Radio Shack.

 

This is a FET or MOSFET transistor. The G, D, S, stand for Gate, Drain, Source. I looked at NTE Electronics and wasn't able to cross-reference it....I'll keep poking around. Just keep in mind that some other aspect of the circuit board may have caused this device to fail in it's wake....

 

It's a National Semiconductor part. Probably has discrete markings on it to hide the real part number. I looked through the NS catalog and could not find any "8219" part number. All NS parts in this family start with LMxxxx.
Sorry couldn't do more. As the other member said, there probably was an external cause to the failed part.

 

The 8219 is the manufactured date of the part. (19th work week of 1982) ... the part definately got over heated by the looks of the Printed Circuit Board. The big rivit or metal piece at the top is there to hold the FET (Transitor) firmly aginst another metal piece for a heat sink. If the rivit got loose , then that could cause the FET to over heat.

Might just be able to reflow the solder on each of the pins and surounding components and assure yourself the rivit is holding on tightly and see if it comes back to life.

 

Thanks guys for all your help. It was my fault it failed, I was doing some "testing" when one of my headlights was making a weird noise ( I now know it is a stripped gear and am getting the bronze one) when some wires I was using to test touched Stupid me
So now one headlight will go up and down and the other because this is friend will not. I thought it would be simple to find this part take out the old one and solder in the new one. Finding this thing is the most challenging part so far.

 

Bingo, and here in lies a problem. If you fried that FET good enough to lift traces, then that board could be toast, especially if it is a multi-layered board. Also, you have probably weakened other components within this circuit and you could end up replacing this part only to see that something else is out of whack. This could cause strange operation with the headlights to a degree that I wouldn't want to experience.

I did surface mount technology (the repairing of circuit boards by replacing these types of parts) for Motorola for years and now its to the point where we hardly replace components any more. That's a board swap waiting to happen if I didn't have a schematic of the board where I could test other points of its operation.

 

I'm not sure if you found what you were looking for, scrapped the search, or are still looking, but here is a suggestion. A company called A.V.G. Electronics a div. 0f (AutoTech Victron Group)was located in Carol Stream ILL. they purchased 2+mil $$ of National replacement parts out of Russia. At one time they had these and many others in that series. I don't know where it all stands today but it's a shot. If your still looking and you can't find them send me an E-mail I would be glad to help look into it for you.

Zeke

 

I sort of doubt the 8219 represents the date code. As this is from a 98 C5 it is more than likely 8219 is the part number and 9744 is the date code (44th week of 1997). They are not going to put a 25 year old part in a new build. The part number is probably an assigned number from the board manufacturer (a lot of companies do this to protect their designs and to make it harder for others to know how much it cost to build).

Bill

 

This is a Field Effect Transistor. The date code is 9744 which indicates the FET (Field Effect Transistor was manufactured in the 44th week of 1997. The 8219 is a production number for the vendor of the pc board, likely a subcontractor to GM. One problem to look out for is that National and many other semiconductor manufacturers will discontinue production of a part pretty quickly. So this particular part may no longer be in production.

I could not find 8219 on the National website however I did locate a device which appears to be similar made by Philips and oddly enough Googling National Semiconductor 8219 returns hits to the Philips part number. The part number is BUK455-100A/B. It has the same pin configuration ie: the Gate, Drain and Source are in the same location and the case style (TO-220) is the same.

I suspect pretty much any TO-220 case (TO-220 is the EIA packaging designator) Power Field Effect Transistor which can handle 25 amps or more, with less then 1 ohm "ON RESISTANCE" having the same pin locations will work. That is my suspicion and your mileage may vary. Ideally you want a device that can handle around 100 volts also. I realize that the car is a 12 volts system but a thing called inductive kickback generated by the motor can produce voltages much higher than the standard 12 volts.

Check Mouser Electronics or Digikey Electronics for supplies. Philips does not talk to individuals. Kind of like trying to buy parts direct from GM. They have a distribution system which you have to use.

Cut the pins on the old device with small wire cutters. Drill out the rivet. Toss the old device. Remove the old pins by heating the pin with the soldering iron and pulling the pin out once it starts to wobble. Just grab it with needle nose pliers. You can use a product called Solderwik to remove the excess solder from the printed circuit pads. Another way I have used in the past is to heat the pad and then rap the board edge down on the benchtop. The solder sloughs and you can pick off any residual. Make sure there are no leftover solder bridges.

If you still have no joy let me know and I will see if I can identify a likely candidate for you to replace the transistor. One last thing to keep in mind is that a lot of part vendors have minimum orders and even if you only need one transistor at a $1.25 you may have to buy a minimum line item number of 25, 50 or greater.

 

WOW all I can say is you and the rest that have replied are the best! Thank you so much for all the input and I will let everyone know the outcome if I am able to get the part and do the fix. Again, thanks!!