Phantom1000

Having a continuing problem of boiling my clutch fluid apparently from the placement of the fluid line and its proximity to the left RKSport Headers. Changed the fluid once already and it quickly turned dirty once again as I continue to lose clutch pressure. There are no leaks and it doesn't appear to have been the master coming apart (no chunks or particles). Just looks like the the fluid is decomposing. When we last changed the fluid, the clutch pressure came back to life immediately.

Any thoughts from the gallery? :confused:


[Modified by Phantom1000, 10:52 AM 11/28/2001]

Power Shifter

Mine gets coooked and I don't have aftermarket headers. I just change it regularly, not to much of a bother. Ric

2004vette

i think you maybe able to get installation wrap for your headers. i think that would cure your problem. :)

Ranger

I'm with PowerShifter. The clutch fluid gets cooked by driving the car the way it is intended to be driven. The clutch fluid needs to be swapped out when it changes color. If this is not done, the clutch pedal (1) gets sluggish or (2) sticks to the floor entirely under high rpm shifts. So keeping the clutch fluid replenished is part of my regular preventive maintenance on my car. I also have changed to a synthetic DOT-4 fluid which has a much higher boiling point than stock.

Ranger

levrac68

Which brand DOT-4 and do you think wrapping insulation around the lines will help? I have to say that the reason my car is down is due to the pedal sticking to the floor when I powershifted racing a Viper. In the heat of the moment I rammed it in gear and I'm paying the price.


[Modified by levrac68, 8:24 AM 11/29/2001]

Ranger

I had sticking clutch pedal under high rpm shifts. Had the clutch hydraulics bled and used ATE Super Blue Racing fluid. Cure the problem. I don't think it matters which fluid you use so long as you do the regular swap of the fluid. But the DOT-4 gives a little more margin in that it has a much higher dry and wet boiling point than stock (DOT-3) fluid. There are many choices among higher temp fluids. Here is a link.
http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-90...mparison.shtml
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zero...postid=1419735

Dealer typically won't bleed the clutch under warranty. They, and the Corvette Tech Center, want to start changing out parts. From bitter experience, I would not let them do this until I were satisfied that simply bleeding the clutch will NOT solve the problem. Least intrusive fix should be tried first.

Regarding wrapping the lines, it would be worth a try but only in addition to a clutch fluid maintenance routine.

Ranger


[Modified by Ranger, 10:20 AM 11/29/2001]

Z06inator

Am I correct that your new headers do not have heat shields?

The Z06 headers have heat shields (at least my 2002).

So it seems natural that you're going to have trouble. GM would not spend the money on the heat shield if it weren't necessary. Space is tight in there, and there isn't much free airflow. So I think you're going to have to do some kind of shielding.

My brake lines are already insulated. I did not notice if the clutch line was as well.

Phantom1000

Thanks guys. I appreciate the input.

As I understand it (and as it appeared to me), the portion of the clutch line at issue is under the car before it bends in to attach to the actual clutch. The headers come down and are just an inch from the clutch line on the left side of the car. It is true that some sort of shielding should help. In addition, the high temp fluid could only help. It's a pain to properly bleed the system though as you have to remove the x-pipe, the cats, the cat-back and the shielding plate for the drive-line, prior to bleeding. Not exactly something your typical caveman lawyer can deal with at home. :D

Those headers seem to generate a whole lot of heat.

Ranger

Phantom1000,

I had my clutch hydraulics bled at a Corvette-only shop. Cost was $117 including a liter of DOT-4 fluid. I went this route because the pedal was sticking to the floor already.

If the pedal is NOT yet sticking yet, then the method followed by PowerShifter should work. It's the "turkey baster" approach whereby you draw the discolored fluid out from the underhood reservoir using a turkey baster (or paper towels). Then clean out the sides and bottom of the reservoir with a paper towel. Finally replenish the fluid to the "notched shoulder fill line." If this is done regularly, it should have the effect of keeping the fluid fresh.

Just gotta be careful to avoid getting the brake fluid on the paint. I now follow the paper towel approach and drape a double layered plastic bag inside the engine bay to receive the soaked towels.

Hope this helps.

Ranger

Phantom1000

Thanks guys. Good info on the different types of fluid and their boiling points. I had heard that the fluid was death to paint.

Thanks again. :cheers:

levrac68

Thanks Ranger. I just bought a wrap and I plan on having the whole system drained when my new clutch goes in. :cheers:

Power Shifter

The safest way of drawing the flued I have found is a LARGE medical syringe then the paper towel. If a retired antique dealer can manage it a "caveman lawyer should be able to manage it.;) Changeing the flued on a regular basis has been the answer to my clutch problems. 16k of launches and power shifts and it's still working. Ric

sgsvette

This appears to be a common problem with the headers.
I changed to Castrol SRF fluid, very expensive $75 for a can, but cured the problem. I don't have to be changing fluid anymore. I haven't wrapped the lines, but will be soon. :flag