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A buddy of mine recommended pulling the plugs and using an oil fogger on the cylinders before starting the car if it has been sitting all winter...any thoughts on this? What type of fogger would you recommend if any?
I've been putting my corvettes in and out of winter storage for years now, both C3 and C5. I've never done anything other than get in, unhook the battery tender, and fire that mother up. I always use stabil in the fuel tank before filling the tank, before storage. That's it.
I've been putting my corvettes in and out of winter storage for years now, both C3 and C5. I've never done anything other than get in, unhook the battery tender, and fire that mother up. I always use stabil in the fuel tank before filling the tank, before storage. That's it.
Me too, 2 C3's and a C5. I would also start them every 7-14 days during the winter and drive them around the "hood" when it was dry just to get the dyno-juice flowing.
I've been putting my corvettes in and out of winter storage for years now, both C3 and C5. I've never done anything other than get in, unhook the battery tender, and fire that mother up. I always use stabil in the fuel tank before filling the tank, before storage. That's it.
Just to be on the safe side, If my car hasnt been started for a while..IE winter, When I go to start I hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the engine over so it doesnt start, just to get the oil pumpin' then I fire it up.
Just to be on the safe side, If my car hasnt been started for a while..IE winter, When I go to start I hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn the engine over so it doesnt start, just to get the oil pumpin' then I fire it up.
Wouldn't the oil pump work just as fast if the engine started or not? I would think just turning the engine 'dry' would yield the same result as starting the engine 'dry' or am I missing something?
I noticed that when starting the car it takes what, a couple seconds before you see pressure, So after sitting for some time all the oil as drained back to the pan.
It can only help to turn the engine over first at much less RPM than firing up right away and idling at 1000 RPM dry.
Thats how I see it, Plus all you have to do is hold the pedal down, it takes all of an extra 20 seconds.
clayton1's method has much lower load and rpms versus instantly firing and running at approx 1000rpms until the idle settles at 750
That is how I do it...
Ahh, thats what I was missing. I was always under the assumption that the concern was a dry cylinder wall and the initial movement of the dry piston rings along the dry cylinder wall, which of course happens at the first movement of the pistons irregardless of the method that moves them. But the slower load does make sense for possibly less wear. Although my personal belief is that with todays engines and oils, a few months shouldn't create any problems.
I always thought that fogging the cylinders PRIOR to storage was a great idea and I was always faithful in doing that. However, a few years ago one of my cars had a serious problem. The 1936 chevrolet 2 door town sedan ended up with stuck pistons and this was just storing it for one winter season. Not just one cylinder but two of them. The number 3 and 6 pistons were so stuck that we tried every trick in the book to get them free.
Popping the clutch on a hill, putting various remedies in the cylinder area, etc. all didn't work. We ended up pulling the engine and pounding out the pistons as they were rusted tight. Now remember this car was only stored inside one season but in Minnesota where it gets cold.
I don't fog cylinders anymore as I feel it is a waste of time and didn't save me from my headaches on the '36.
So if your wondering what we did with the old '36... well all was not lost, as we saw this as our opportunity to turn her into a street rod and put in an LT1 engin in there...
I always thought that fogging the cylinders PRIOR to storage was a great idea and I was always faithful in doing that. However, a few years ago one of my cars had a serious problem. The 1936 chevrolet 2 door town sedan ended up with stuck pistons and this was just storing it for one winter season. Not just one cylinder but two of them. The number 3 and 6 pistons were so stuck that we tried every trick in the book to get them free.
Popping the clutch on a hill, putting various remedies in the cylinder area, etc. all didn't work. We ended up pulling the engine and pounding out the pistons as they were rusted tight. Now remember this car was only stored inside one season but in Minnesota where it gets cold.
I don't fog cylinders anymore as I feel it is a waste of time and didn't save me from my headaches on the '36.
So if your wondering what we did with the old '36... well all was not lost, as we saw this as our opportunity to turn her into a street rod and put in an LT1 engin in there...
I not only 'fog' the cylinders I usually throw a few squirts of std. weight motor oil into each of the cylinders as well so they have oil sitting around the rings all winter long(as long as the rings hold it). Creates quite a smoke show in the spring, but never had an issue once the smoke clears.
I've been putting my corvettes in and out of winter storage for years now, both C3 and C5. I've never done anything other than get in, unhook the battery tender, and fire that mother up. I always use stabil in the fuel tank before filling the tank, before storage. That's it.