yep now i'm waiting for the new glass to get here from gene culley

hope it goes back together okay

oak

 

Thanks, Bill... I have been getting too much inadvertent experience with replacing these mirrors lately - especially after last month's Dealership incident where they replaced both mirror modules, but could not get my mirrors back on without breaking them... had to learn to get good at this myself or my Signal Mirrors would be no more! The Dealership kept saying that the stock mirrors "flex" to install them and that the Muth mirrors were too brittle and thin to "flex". I still cringe every time I replay their explanation in my mind! Glass mirrors DON'T FLEX! Also, the Muth mirrors are the exact same thickness as the stock mirrors (just sans bezel) - Muth mirrors are being used on hundreds-of-thousands of factory cars using the same glass and no bezel - and Muth Tech Support said the same thing - "Glass does not flex". It is true that the factory bezeled design is more forgiving and less apt to break upon re-installation, but that still is not an excuse to use poor technique.

 

Its nice to see members who give real advice through hands on experience.. this has always been lacking here...I just have one other thought...,you can try it sometime if you like.. besides adding some sort of lub to the snap points.. putting the mirror in hot water will expand the female snap points, a bit of ice on the male post, could also make the difference. One both parts expand or contract to their ambient size the mirrow will be tighter.If your house wtaer temp is 120, and you can get the male post down to 32 degrees it should help... all C5's are tested to 160F. you dont want to go from 30 degrees to 120 F at one time.. IM sure you know that but others need to have things really spelled out..

"Hey I just got the mirror from the warehouse ET ( the unheated warehouse in North Dakota, I folllowed your instructions and boiled some water I figered the hoter the better, and threw the mirror in.. and it broke..... imagine that.

 

Interesting idea, may try that next time!

The Coefficient of Expansion for most thermoplastics is about 10 times that of plate glass, so in all probability the bezel would expand more than the glass (eventually) - which would be a good thing "depending" on how the factory glass is sealed to the bezel (if at all). On the other side, the "rate of expansion" (thermal conductivity) of glass is on the average about 5 times that of most plastics (not good in this case as the glass will "react" to the temperature change quicker). If it uses a strong more rigid fixative, then that could cause a problem. I have never destroyed a factory mirror to see what they use between the mirror and bezel. I do know that the Muth mirrors use an adhesive material similar to a butyl (like Dynamat mass loading compound) to attach the mirror to their backing plate, so there should be no problem trying it with those units, the only thing to watch out for on those would be not to submerge the separate LED signal modules toward the outside of the mirrors in the hot water and just cover the backing attachment plate.

Since we are looking at such a short distance, I doubt the temperatures we are talking about would cause any problems and definitely worth a try, but I personally would just try to submerge the connectors only in the hot water to be on the safe side. The mirrors definitely can handle the max. temp., but I doubt they test these units to withstand a super-RAPID temperature change that would not normally occur in nature?

 

That does sound like a great idea.

Speaking of glass, you should have seen how my eyes "glassed" over when I read this the first time. You sound like the professor in "Back to the Future" with Michael J. Fox!

 

Yeah J-Man, bad habit - too much info...

Started as an Architect
Then worked 5 years as an un-licensed engineer (Structural, Welding, Metallurgy, Electrical, Mechanical, Process and Piping & Cryogenic Design)
Then taught seminars for 12 years
Now (for the past 18 years) - Graphic/Web Design primarily and Marketing consulting - another obsession...
CEO/Choreographics, Inc.
Adobe Certified Instructor (ACI)
Adobe Certified Expert, Print Specialist
Adobe Certified Expert, Web Specialist
Adobe Certified Expert, Creative Suite Master
Adobe Certified Expert, Photoshop CS
Adobe Certified Expert, InDesign CS
Adobe Certified Expert, Illustrator CS
Adobe Certified Expert, GoLive CS
Adobe Certified Expert, Acrobat Professional
Adobe Flash Developer
Adobe After Effects Specialist
Member - National Association of Photoshop Professionals (1998 - present)
Member - International Virtual Reality Photography Assn.
(the list goes on... everything technical and detailed)

 

Dude, Adobe certs are a workout to get as Adobe products have such a steep learning curve. I'm impressed!

Now start a PhotoShop thread and strut your stuff! I see you made your own avatar so I know you got skillz!

 

the answer to the question why ? i got my new glass thanks to gene took some pics of what was wrong , when the mirror was pushed into far by accident , it pulled the adjusting post out of mirror motor , and you have to line up the splines on the pegs to get it to go back in .


you can see in this pic the adjusting post still attached to mirror .



this one shows the missing post on the mirror motor .



and this pic shows it installed back in the housing where it belongs

just be aware when you put it back together , there are little line-up splines on the 2 smaller post that are for the memory adj. and they have to match the groves in mirro back spots .

hope this helps .

oak

 

I agree that your problem was probably a result of that peg being in a bind somehow (if everything is working now), but it is "normal" for one or both of the drive pegs to stay attached to the mirror upon removal - that does not indicate a problem.

 

t does when the mirror is bumped hard enough to pull that peg out , and that was what happened in my case .

thanks for all your great info on this subject

oak