Convert Console 12V Power Socket to Switched
TIA
Edit: In other words, does anyone know of a switched power source into which I could tap and connect the "hot" terminal on the socket?
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; Jan 30, 2008 at 06:56 PM.
I was thinking of a more elegant solution. Maybe something like re-wiring the hot wire from the socket to a switched power source, so when I turn the key off power is automatically cut to the socket, and subsequently, anything plugged into it.
While a toggle switch might apply for other applications, I don't think it would be the right solution for this particular application, especially since the center console power socket is hidden, and it would be easy to forget to hit the switch.
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; Jan 30, 2008 at 06:59 PM.
I guess I can go that route, too, but I would've thought that the car would already be equipped with an "open" wire, which I could just splice onto. My C4 actually had a circuit complete with wires designed for just that.
However, I will check out those "fused jumper wires". I kinda don't understand how they work since there's not much excess room around the spades that insert into the fuse sockets. Unless this device plugs into the socket where the fuse would normally go, then the fuse plugs into the device, thereby relocating the original fuse slightly, while providing a wire connection, as well?


Forgive me if C5s are some weird car where this does not apply... this is just general info not anything C5 specific.
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Thanks again.


$2 from Radio Shack. You can find them cheaper!
Just slide the end over the removed fuse, then put the fuse back in its place. This will provide you with the "hot" side, you will still need to find the "negitive."
Last edited by ALLEGRO; Jan 31, 2008 at 12:16 AM.
I might just have to take a look in the footwell to see what circuit into which I can re-route the hot for the under-console receptacle. And, if I can tap a switched hot wire on the output side of a fuse, I could use that same fuse for the receptacle circuit, which would result in clean mod.Of course, I might want to up the amps on the fuse to accommodate what I'd use the receptacle for, which is a cell phone charger.
The reason I don't just want to wire the cell phone charger itself directly to a different circuit is because I tend to use the charger in my other cars from time to time, when I force myself to drive something else. :-) Hence I want to keep the recptacle side of the charger intact.
Anyone have a schematic that might show hot wires AFTER the fuse center that might be a sensible hot spot? Obviously I'd want to tap into a switched circuit that powers non-critical items like some interior accessory like a courtesy light or something, so if the fuse blows I'm not stranded somewhere, or something.
Negative side is already there at the 12-volt receptacle, remember? All I need to do is use the switched "hot" in place of the constant "hot" that is there already.
FWIW, not all is lost on that fuse jumper item, as I just learned about something new, which will undoubtedly come in handy for the next "project".
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; Jan 31, 2008 at 12:38 AM.
I think that wire is HOT all the time too.
Realistically, the Relay method is by far the best method. It keeps the ability to run a high current (when/if ever needed) and the safety of the same thicker gage wire to that socket. The relay uses much lower amps is just acting as the 'switch man' to turn it on and off with the key on/off.
I would best you could do this for less than $15 easily! What other are talking about, you can find at any auto parts place. Look for the name, Add-A-Tap, or Add-a-Circuit, and get the 'mini' fused one. It will become very obvious when you go into the footwell, how to connect this up to power the coil side of the relay.
Good Luck ----->
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