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My oil pressure is stuck at 80 on the gauge and 130 psi on the DIC. This is leading me to believe the OP sensor is bad. Do you need to drain the oil to replace this sensor? I have like half life on the oil but it wont be a big deal to change it now. Also where is this sensor located?
Check out the "sticky" at the top of the C5 Tech page.
The whole sorry story is right there.
The sender is at the top rear of the block...behind the intake manifold.
I personally went with removing the manofold and converted to the brass Buick sender. That rather than cut a hole in the cowl under the wipers. I couldn't bring myself to do a hack job. Removing the manifold isn't that bad of a job. Leave the injectors in place.
You have some decisions to make.
top of the block near the firewall you need to remove the air intake to get at it unless you want to cut out the cowl under the windshield wipers
There is a great how to DIY article by CF member Vectorz in the archives. search C5 parent directory his ID and key words oil pressure sensor
Make sure the electrical connector is very clean (no oil residue) and torque to 15 ft-lbs
Just did mine 2 weeks ago. Did the cut under the wiper tray. There is absolutely NO way it can be seen from on top or underneath. Takes less than an hour and guarantees you easy access if you need to do it again, which I've heard happens more frequently with the "Made in Mexico" sensor as the originals are not available anymore.
You have to remove the wipers and the big black cover below them. It's about a 3" hole above the back of the intake, a little closer to the driverside than in the center of the engine. Look at the oil sender relocate at the top, you'll see where the sender is.
I didn't photo document my project, but did mine very simlar to this. A dremmel with a router like bit will works very nicely. Don't cut to deep as there is a hose just under it.. You can reach under and feel and even move it out of the way.
When I put mine back together, I just put the piece I cut out back in place with some blue painters tape underneatch, then used black silicone to fill where the cut was, let it set up then removed the tape, and it almost looks like it came from the factory like that....... No Bull!
I didn't photo document my project, but did mine very simlar to this. A dremmel with a router like bit will works very nicely. Don't cut to deep as there is a hose just under it.. You can reach under and feel and even move it out of the way.
When I put mine back together, I just put the piece I cut out back in place with some blue painters tape underneatch, then used black silicone to fill where the cut was, let it set up then removed the tape, and it almost looks like it came from the factory like that....... No Bull!
I have done a couple like this and would not hesitate do do my own Vette. I show the car and am one of the most **** guys you'll ever meet when it comes to my Vette.
I use the Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut on a slight angle (like when you cut the top off a pumpkin) Start about 1" to the left of center and cut about 4" wide and 2 1/2" high. I found a little bigger is better as you will never see it ever. There is a bolt head right next to the sending unit so you need a thin wall socket.
For all the guys that call it a hack job IT'S A MOD
You may want to check out DPE Corvettes sender relocation kit looks a little pricey,but it looks well made.Their link is in the middle of a very long thread on the tech forum.You take it apart in the traditional way install the kit,and the sender is then out where you can get to it.Supposedly it is now in a cooler lower vibration location which is thought to make them last longer,or a 5 min job to replace in the future.
OK, OK. I hear you guys about calling it a hack job. Sorry.
I'll probably be sorry I didn't cut the hole next time I have to change the sender!
You were right at first. It's a hack job.
But we've had this discussion a thousand times on other threads so to each his own.
Originally Posted by itzza427
You may want to check out DPE Corvettes sender relocation kit looks a little pricey,but it looks well made.Their link is in the middle of a very long thread on the tech forum.You take it apart in the traditional way install the kit,and the sender is then out where you can get to it.Supposedly it is now in a cooler lower vibration location which is thought to make them last longer,or a 5 min job to replace in the future.
To the OP, this is the way to go! This is a quality constructed addition and Itzza427 you're right, the next time the OPS goes bad (and trust me, it will go bad again), it's a 5 minute fix. It's simple to install (once you get to the OPS) and looks real nice.
If you look closely at my picture, you'll see that my gauge is liquid filled. That's a quality gauge my friend.