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Clutch Fluid Replacement

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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 05:23 PM
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Default Clutch Fluid Replacement

Just used Ranger's clutch fluid replacement even though my 2002 shifted OK and the pedal did not stick to the floor. However, since the car is new to me as of last Sept. thought I'd do a little preventive maintenance. Only took 2 fill and drains so I guess I'm not driving the car hard enough

(http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html)
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Drive it again for a while and check it again. It might be dirty again. I changed mine two times, and it was still clear. I pumped the clutch about 50 times and was still clean. I drove it one day and checked that night and it was dirty again.
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by KrnrKick
Just used Ranger's clutch fluid replacement even though my 2002 shifted OK and the pedal did not stick to the floor. However, since the car is new to me as of last Sept. thought I'd do a little preventive maintenance. Only took 2 fill and drains so I guess I'm not driving the car hard enough

(http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html)
Thanks for the great link. That should be a sticky in the tech section.
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Old Mar 22, 2008 | 11:47 PM
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Great link! heres another one from another vette board

Originally Posted by hailskins666
I did all of my dirty work yesterday morning in my work truck so I could drive the Vette after lunch for “drive your Vette to work day”. Well, I was able to drive it for about 30 mins until the bottom fell out. Storms all afternoon. Being in construction, when it rains, usually we get shut down. So I had the afternoon off. Decided to change my clutch fluid, and install the Killer Bee.

Here is the clutch fluid change:

All of the stuff needed. DOT 4 brake and clutch fluid(I used NAPA brand), Baster, Rags, and empty water bottle for the old fluid.




I started out by laying rags around the clutch fluid reservoir, as the fluid is corrosive, and the process can be messy.




This is the color of the fluid, after 781 really fun miles in the new Z.


Suck all of the old fluid out with the baster. And be careful, the baster likes to drip a little of the fluid out. Next time, I’ll use a automotive syringe, which is on my list of things to get from Autozone, to lessen the droplets.


Clean out the reservoir with a lint free rag.


Fill with fresh fluid. Fill to about half way between the ‘min’ and ‘max’ marks.




Clean the cap, and replace.


Pump the clutch pedal about 20 to 30 times, and check again. Mine was dark again. Not as dark, but not clear.


So I repeated the process, 3 times in all, and ended up with this.


Like new. A LOT of people swear by this method, to avoid clutch pedal issues. It really only took about 15 minutes, even while shooting the pics. I think it is really good, and easy ‘preventative’ maintenance.

PS. Like I stated earlier, the turkey baster likes to drip a little, so I’m gonna try a large syringe next time.
:z:
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:40 PM
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Great post

I need to look at doing mine soon and was wandering if you can upgrade from the standard fluid to a higher rating D0T 4 or 5 or 5.1by using the above method. I know certain fluids do not mix but cannot remember which.

Just wondering what everyone else has done.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by red devil corvette
Great post

I need to look at doing mine soon and was wandering if you can upgrade from the standard fluid to a higher rating D0T 4 or 5 or 5.1by using the above method. I know certain fluids do not mix but cannot remember which.

Just wondering what everyone else has done.


I don't think the dot 5 is recommended.
I plan on doing mine soon with dot 4.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by steve8
I don't think the dot 5 is recommended.
I plan on doing mine soon with dot 4.
Thanks for that will go with DOT 4
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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After reading this post I went out to the garage to do the fluid swap. Beings the car is a new to me 2000 I was not sure what to expect. I gotta tell you guys if you have never looked at your clutch fluid, time is now. I could not believe the condition of mine. Way beyond what I would have expected. I dont see how this cannot be a great preventative item for all us MN6 cars. Easy as pie and definately a must do.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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I have one of those Mighty-Vac from Ecklers (I'm sure they are available most places), what I like about it is that is sucks the fluid to a separate container. And mine looks like surgery as well with all the towels.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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I hate to burst everyones bubble on this easy fix but I would say this is a half a$$ed method at best in dealing with maintaining clutch slave cylinder maintenance. While i agree it is better than nothing; it is by no means a replacement for bleeding out fluid properly IMHO. Nice looking write up though.
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 11:30 PM
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subscribing
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 11:45 PM
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Did this after my last dyno tune.

New fluid on the left, old on the right.

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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by red devil corvette
Great post

I need to look at doing mine soon and was wandering if you can upgrade from the standard fluid to a higher rating D0T 4 or 5 or 5.1by using the above method. I know certain fluids do not mix but cannot remember which.

Just wondering what everyone else has done.
agree, thanks for sharing...
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 01:29 AM
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Is there a bleeder down below??

My 98 Chev pickup with a five speed had a problem disengaging the clutch about a year ago. I was ready to buy the throwout bearing asssembly (it's one enclosed unit) and took a look at my c/fluid reservoir...yuck...black and grimy.

I opened the bleeder below and let gravity pull the fluid out while keeping it filled up a above. Finally it cleared up down below, I closed the bleeder, pumped the clutch pedal a few times....bled some more goo out and VOILA....my clutch started working right again and has ever since.

Can I do the same with my Corvette? I'll have to look during my next oil change if nobody answers here. I agree, I think it's better to bleed it all the way through. However, as said, this baster idea is better than ignoring it!!
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 08:21 AM
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It's located in an impossible position to get to. I believe you have to disassembly much of the drive train to get to it. It is much easier to do as described above.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 01:59 PM
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Yes I agree its not a complete change which would be better. But dilution is the solution to pollution!! So its gotta be better than doing nothing and wishing you did something.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:00 PM
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As a note I did this myself for the first time 2 weeks ago...this fluid was black SLUDGE!

As far as I am aware this was the original fluid from 2003...

I am still changing it every couple of days as it keeps turning black but not as bad. I will continue to do so until it runs clear.

And to the person who stated that this is a bad idea and to bleed it from the bottom only...

Yeah...ok ...its no replacement but it sure as hell is a good idea to do this as well.

Point being as much off a mess as my fluid is/was I would have needed multiple full bleeds
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:37 PM
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I agree. First tiem did 3 fluid changes. Drove it about 50 miles. Did it again. Another 50 miles. Did it again. Now when I try to do it 2 times, the 2nd time it stays pretty clear.

Also, TURKEY BASTER sucks! it drips and leaks, find a big syringe if you can. Also trade up to Synthetic DOT4, better heat and compression #'s.

I traded up in both the clutch and the brakes to the syn Dot4.
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 03:39 PM
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FYI = the new ZO6 C6 is recommended to go with Syntethic Super Dot4 and NOT Dot5. DOT 5 is a totally different fluid with differnet dynamics.
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