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Ya, get the little pickle fork lookin tool to take the clutch line coupler apart. Worth every penny and then some. That was the toughest part of the install IMO. You have to shove the plastic ring inside the brass fitting far enough that they come apart. A bit confusing til you see it apart, but just shove that little ring in as far as it will go.
As far as install tips, I recommend taking it out a piece at a time. I took out my diff (did gears at the time), then the tranny, then the torque tube. If you're not doing gears, then leave the diff together with the tranny. On install, the clutch didn't line up well with the pilot, making it a PITA. I ended up using the torque tube as an alignment tool. Slip the input shaft into the clutch, and then loosen the clutch mounting bolts allowing you to use the torque tube to align the clutch plate. Tighten the Torque tube bolts, and then tghten the clutch bolts, rotating the engine by hand.
That's the way I did it, and it worked awesome. It all just slid together, no fighting that way.
I used an ATV/Motorcycle jack to lower the rear cradle. A trans jack works well to support the torque tube/trans/rear assembly. When you lower that assembly, measure how high the jack is, so you can "spear" the torque tube into the clutch hole when putting it back together.
Oh yeah, add the remote bleeder valve. Also consider adding headers, tunnel tube at the same time since everything is out.
i have a lift in my garage,this my help or hurt me with the rear diff/suspension.do you drop the whole rear suspension?what clutches are you replacing the stock ones with?this thing slips big time when i powershift.thanks
i have a lift in my garage,this my help or hurt me with the rear diff/suspension.do you drop the whole rear suspension?what clutches are you replacing the stock ones with?this thing slips big time when i powershift.thanks
Ahh, a lift will definately help! Yes, you must drop the entire rear cradle.