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I drive a stick myself,but most techniques apply. 1.turn off traction control(hold button down for message traction control off,keep holding down and you get competition driving,let' wheels spin helps keep you straight) 2. Back into water/do short burn out 3.stage 4.Torque motor (guessing about 11/1200 rpm) 5. leave on 3rd yellow-- When you leave don't just slam it to the floor do a "quick controlled feed to the floor" (ranger) flooring it will just result in frying the tires and wasting e/t.,,from there just run it out through the traps. You might want to find a deserted place to try a few torque it up starts to get a feel for a quick start with out going up in smoke. With this basis you should get a good reaction time,and with a good pass get into mid to low 13s @ 105/110. this should get you started off on the right foot---Have fun Any questions shoot me a PM
With an A4 you want to shift into 3rd (no OD) and leave it. Follow above info and you will do fine. The A4 will give you much more consistent results compared to a M6. Practice as much as you can.
If you are on street tires DO NOT go into the water box or even back into it. The grooves on your tires can track water up to the starting line and cause issues for other drivers. Drive around the water box and do a quick scuff burn out to clean off the dirt on your tires. Street tires do not need to be roasted like slicks. If you burn them out too long then they will actually become "greasy" and hurt your 60'.
Hey guys. On the first run, I ran an 13.4. I wanted to do one more and I ran an 13.1. I think I can get a few more tenths off if I get a good start. That xmas tree is a little tricky when doing it for the first time.
I think alot of it is in your reaction time. It takes alot of practice to cut a good light. It's kind of a gamble there. If you wait for the green you might as well pack up and go home. If you take the gamble and time it just right to leave off the back side of the 3rd yellow, You'll start seeing better times. You will red light every now and then, but if you are doing test and tune you aint losing anything. There is a fine line between red lighting and getting it right. You think that tree is hard, try running a pro tree...
About as good as you can do on street tires,,,Drag radials will let you leave harder. I see an extra set of wheels in your future.Shorter tires(smaller circumference) will give you the same effect as lower gears,that you can take off when you leave the track.
About as good as you can do on street tires,,,Drag radials will let you leave harder. I see an extra set of wheels in your future.Shorter tires(smaller circumference) will give you the same effect as lower gears,that you can take off when you leave the track.
From: Ok! So you don't believe in conspiracies, but will you acknowledge the possibility of there being coordinated activities in secret places? Texas
Originally Posted by J S Machine
I think alot of it is in your reaction time. It takes alot of practice to cut a good light. It's kind of a gamble there. If you wait for the green you might as well pack up and go home. If you take the gamble and time it just right to leave off the back side of the 3rd yellow, You'll start seeing better times. You will red light every now and then, but if you are doing test and tune you aint losing anything. There is a fine line between red lighting and getting it right. You think that tree is hard, try running a pro tree...
Reaction time has nothing to do with E.T.
For the most part, E.T. is a measure of the car - R.T. is a measure of the driver
If the best his car is capable of is a 13.1, he can cut a perfect light and still only run a 13.1.
On the other hand, if he's racing a car that is also only capable of 13.1
and the other driver is asleep at the tree, a better reaction time can win the race for him.
You can run a faster E.T. and still lose the race. HTH
I think alot of it is in your reaction time. It takes alot of practice to cut a good light. It's kind of a gamble there. If you wait for the green you might as well pack up and go home. If you take the gamble and time it just right to leave off the back side of the 3rd yellow, You'll start seeing better times. You will red light every now and then, but if you are doing test and tune you aint losing anything. There is a fine line between red lighting and getting it right. You think that tree is hard, try running a pro tree...
R/T only matters in a competition. You could sit there for 10 seconds before launching and still run a quick time, it just wouldnt help much in an actual race. If you're going for a good ET, just focus on the launch, not the timing.
Reaction time has nothing to do with E.T.
For the most part, E.T. is a measure of the car - R.T. is a measure of the driver
If the best his car is capable of is a 13.1, he can cut a perfect light and still only run a 13.1.
On the other hand, if he's racing a car that is also only capable of 13.1
and the other driver is asleep at the tree, a better reaction time can win the race for him.
You can run a faster E.T. and still lose the race. HTH
A rule of thumb,,every 1/10thsecond is about a car length..I' had as much as 3 to 4 tenths,really out there in front.
If you are trying to get the best ET out of the car, who cares about reaction time? Take your time and set up your launch. Power break up to the rpm your breaks can hold and and release. Squeeze the pedal, do not mash. My best 60' time and ETs keep getting better with less throttle off the line.