I have had issues with the HID Headlight Conversion kit purchased from NTRBL33 as others have had. Unreliable or no firing of the light also affecting the closing of the headlight doors. While they have given me great service trying to correct the issues we mutually decided to go back to stock until their new product arrives in a few months with a full refund due. I have no complaints about their service and support.

I am removing the HID system and installing the stock low beam bulbs back in. When I put a stock bulb in the same light where the HID bulb quit working the stock bulb does not work either. I know it is not the bulb as I have switched bulbs from the working side and both the bulbs do work.

Thanks much for any ideas on what may be going on and how to correct it.

 

Get a multimeter and check your bulb socket as well as the fuse for that side......sounds like something is blocking your current to that bulb. Will the bulb light when just plugged into the wiring harness on that side?

 

No the bulb will not light but good call on the fuse. I think I may have a fuse out in the engine compartment fuse box. Going for a replacement now and will report back.

 

I concur with the possibility of a fuse out... On the HID note, the system I purchased has worked fine for me, I got the DJ Motorsporst version, (site vendor) ANd his Customer Service, and tech support are beyond reproach!!!
Good Luck

 

 

It was the fuse, all is well now with the stock bulbs. I am very impressed with the DJ Motorsports guys as well and am looking forward to their new version of the HID lights. They have been VERY helpful and supportive throughout the problems I have had.

Thanks for the replys!

 

If you get another HID kit, make sure you get a battery based, dedicated wiring harness with relays. This will often resolve many of the issues with HIDs.
Based on experience

 

 

Thanks for that input. I have certainly read on here over the past months about so many issues with the different offerings of this headlight upgrade. A common theme for resolving issues seems to be upgrading the wiring, fuses and adding the relays as you suggest. Thanks for the voice of experience.

 

Never to late for another... !

 

I agree Junkman. Not much worse then getting excited about doing a mod, completing it with only the help from the thoughtful forum supporters who do such a great job of detailing the steps (such as yourself I might add), and then having disappointing results. I really did not mind changing out the parts for replacements several times trying to rectify the problem, the guys at DJ Motorsports made it really painless. But at some point you have to give up on that one and move on to another. I know my mind will not rest until I change them out to HID's, it's just a matter of time. As our Governator says, "I'll be back".

 

Trust me Steve, I know the feeling!

The thing is sometimes you just have to walk away, but just for the day. My very first mod was the painting of my calipers. It took me 2 weeks! I laugh now but at the time, I just walked away for the evening on a many occasion. My method is very slow as I am learning while I work. You can't get in a hurry and if you do like I do, you celebrate every little victory (like finally removing a nut or bolt that was hard to remove).

Check out this picture:



At this point doing my output shaft seal replacement, I was attempting to put the parking brake back on. See that spring? It is suppose to be behind the piece with the studs in it. The reason it is not is because I didn't take it off right in the first place (long story). When I finally got smart enough to open the manual back up and read exactly why I couldn't get it back on, I found out that every piece that is connected to the stabilizer had to be removed. Not only did I not know how to do that, but I didn't have the tools.

"Just when I thought I was free from the damnation of my repair, it pulled me back in."

This was day 2 of a two hour job and I realized it was time to walk away for the evening. When I came back and hit it again, I had that stabilizer disassembled, and reassembled so fast you'd think I knew what I was doing. On day three, that rear end went back in the car so fast that I shocked myself. I took the whole thing apart so many times that I can now do it in my sleep.

Don't let this small setback discourage you from trying again. I had to jump on the forum just to ask which way to turn the oil drain bolt in order to remove it. Someone is always here with an answer and is what makes this place so great. Hell, you could pick up the phone and call me direct. I'd be more than happy to help.

 

Don't let this small setback discourage you from trying again. I had to jump on the forum just to ask which way to turn the oil drain bolt in order to remove it. Someone is always here with an answer and is what makes this place so great. Hell, you could pick up the phone and call me direct. I'd be more than happy to help. [/QUOTE]

Thanks for the encouragement and the open door policy! And I won't get discouraged, I have already attempted more things with a car in the past 4 months then I have in the past 30 years. I have been following your seal replacement saga, not becuase mine is leaking but I get so interested in so many of things that get done on here I can't pull myself away. My wife calls the forum my corvette **** site, finds me on it at all hours of the day or night. And you are right on, it's mainly due to the great members who just want to help you out and share the successes.

 

AJ,

Wish you had done a search or posted. I have a long post on my experience with the dreaded "spring".......and the fix I finally figured out that did not require any special tools.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1787613 post 7



Jim

 

Well, it depends on what you call "special".

I had to go buy a socket Torx 70 to remove the bolts that hold the stud plate on. I didn't know they made Torx bits that big! I also needed a 22mm box wrench for the knucle bolt. I didn't have anything that big either. For me, those were "special" tools because I haven't needed any of them up to now.

It sucks that the service manual doesn't say what "regular" tools you need to remove a bolt or nut. My master mechanic says that the reason is because people like me are not supposed to be working on cars!

I saw that you experienced the same issue I had while removing the rotors. That's how my spring became dislodged. But once I followed the manual's instructions, it came apart easily and went together quick. I gave up on the short cut, it was too much work!

 

IF I had to pull the axle, which I didn't, then I too might have gone that route. Looks like your to go to guy fro special C5 tools

 

Yea, I don't mind if the job takes me 3 times as long, as long as it is easy as possible. I went from a small parts box that would fit in the Vette to a chest on wheels since joining this forum! Sears, Auto Zone and Pep Boys know me on a first name basis now.