Hi,
My check engine light came on today and I was receiving codes p0410 and p1415. I had long tubes installed recently and A&A tuned out my last check engine light (not sure of code). Anyway, is this something that I need to have tuned out, or is it something more critical? I know that these are codes are air system related (which I have no knowledge about). Any help is much appreciated.

 

Here's a bump for a friend. Reed, hopefully someone will chime in. In the meanwhile, try the corvette doctor webpage if you have not already done so.

 

Hi Matt. Thanks for the bump and thanks for the info!

 

P0410 AIR System
P1415 AIR System Bank 1

Here's a good explanation: http://www.gearchatter.com/viewpost13513.php

 

Code P1415 is for the left side check valve which is easy to change as opposed to the right which requires the removal of the intake manifold.

The problem that you are experiencing is a known one, as condensation builds in the check valves after shut down, and gradually rust build up. Now, this rust will cause the check valves to stop working, meaning letting fresh air in, from the air pump. This in turn sets the code, during the next drive cycle diagnostics, because the PCM does not see the o2 sensors compensate when the fresh air is induced.

The part can be bought at most Auto Parts for around 15 bucks or almost double at the Stealer. PN GM PART # 2040805


* I remember reading on the forum:

Here's the link and pictures: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ght=Code+P1415

[QUOTE=Bill Curlee;1559000567]

Why dont you just try to clean it instead of replacing it? The valve is very simple and usualy the seal just sticks shut or gets gunk on the seat and stucks open. If you disconnect the main air supply hose and you get exhaust out of the engine side of the hose, the valve is stuck open.
There is a "Y" that connects the main air supply hose to both check valves. It's located between the engine and the brake vacuum booster at the fire wall. You can either disconnect the hose for the specific defective valve or just spray carb cleaner in the main air hose and fog both valves. After the cleaning, I give it a good spray and doush of WD-40. This procedure works good for me and a bunch of guys on here.

Easy fix

 

Great info! I will give it a try this week!

 

I cleared the codes today from the DIC and the Check Engine Light went away. I know that probably doesn't solve the problem. I am still going to go through the steps listed above and try cleaning the left side check valve. I just want to make sure that next year, I will have no problems passing smog.

 

I went out this morning to check out the the AIR system per the advice of the great forum members. Guess what, one of my hoses was on the Driver's side was disconnected! The hose is the one that connects to the Y-Connector right above the steering shaft. The hose was actually cracked so I had to trim it a little. I also had to disconnect the AIR tube to get the hose back on properly.

I didn't have a chance to clean the hose out per Bill Curlee's post, but at least I know what I am dealing with. After I reinstalled the hose, I noticed that it rests on the steering shaft. I wonder if the friction from the moving parts is what caused the hose to crack and subsequently disconnect. I think I am going to take the car back to A&A to take a look. Should I just have him tune this out so the code doesn't re-appear? Anyone else have this same experience?