jrprich

Good work George

Junkman2008

Damn George, and I thought I was special because I "pimped my computer"!

Well, I do mod my pizza's!

capehorn3

How will you weather proof this? That connector is right up front.

Junkman2008

Which connector are you speaking of?

Ryan L

I'm using everyone's fav. Chinese special HIDs. They work great, minus the ol' flash-high-beams-to-close-headlight-doors issue.

I've seen some build a complicated relay box to solve this, but I was hoping there might be another solution.

0TheRadioFlyer97

A basic relay setup with split outputs to each light should solve any problems involving getting the doors to close w/o high beam flashing. That's how mine's setup and i've had no problems.

Junkman2008

And where did you post this little tad bit of information? Here the rest of us have been using the high beam trick and you've had a resolution all along? Oh man, now you've done it!

0TheRadioFlyer97

I figured most everyone here knew how to install a relay.

You'll need a 14-12 ga main power wire from the fusebox. You can install the relay either in the battery area or near the headlight (either way works. I prefer near the headlight)

Use the headlight low beam (+) as the trigger wire for the relay.
There are plenty of good grounds near the headlight and with a little work, you can mount the relay on one of the 3 headlight frame mounting bolts on the front of the fender.

You'll need to split the output wire so each headlight gets one. 14ga is good here. You should be able to use the ground from the OEM headlight harness.

jrprich

JM,

You already have relays, they are part of the wiring harness you installed for your fog and low beams

capehorn3

The capacitor thats soldered in, no heat shrink?

0TheRadioFlyer97

e-tape is my friend

Junkman2008

Correct, and my lights always raise when I turn them on. They just don't go down all the time when I turn them off. My problem is backward from what most guys are experiencing. The high beam trick still works 100% of the time.

George?

jrprich

Yeah,
I don't have a solution for this.........but if I had it I would likely try George's idea.......... on one side at least. It is reversable

capehorn3

Don't have the link handy but one guy on here wired a parking light bulb, around 7 watts i believe, in series with lows. This upped the wattage the low beam "monitor" sees and says his works. I'm going here soon probably as I've added highs to my fogs and lows

Junkman2008

You mean wired in parallel?

0TheRadioFlyer97

i've never experienced that so I'm not sure how to fix it. Sorry

Junkman2008

Oh you're not getting off that easy! Fix it! Fix it I say! You fix it our your ***** will be offered up as a sacrifice to the wenches in OT I tell you!

joe3451

Great solution for a long time problem, i tinkered around with the headlight wont go down problem and posted back in january this solution and it has worked great so far here is the entire post woth picsI think I solved the DOOR WONT GO DOWN PROBLEM with the HID install, The problem is the computer wont drop the lights due to a difference in wattage from the stock lights to the new bulbs, stock lights are 55 watts and hid bulbs are 35 watts. The solution I found was to wire a blinker bulb and holder directly in to the harness that runs from the headlight harness to the balast, thats the one that unplugs from your original stock bulb so there is no confusion, the holder i purchased had 2 wires attached to it, i took one wire and connected it to the + wire of the harness that runs from the balast to the vehicles stock harness,(RED) and took the remaining wire and connected it to a grounding point in the pocket the headlight assembly drops into (I used the bolt that holds the hinge for the hood), make sure you put a bulb in the holder and when your headlights are on the bulb should be lit that how you will know that it is installed properly,the bulb i used was a 7 watt blinker bulb, you dont want to go too high or you will run into the same problem. I took plenty of pictures and i would be more than happy to help over the phone if you want to call. I hope this helps you out with this problem good luck !!! PM me if this solution works for you!!!JOE
JOE

0TheRadioFlyer97

If you dont' want a random 194 bulb laying around, you could add some neon Accents or cold cathodes somewhere in the engine compartment.

Junkman2008

It looks like you're missing 2 pictures. Here they are:





You know, what you are saying makes perfectly good sense. I never took the time to totally understand the headlight circuit so I never paid any attention to the fact that my ballast are creating 35 watts of power in the circuit as compared to the stock creation of 55 watts in the circuit. The additional bulb is of course creating an additional voltage drop within the circuit. Since V x I = P (and I being constant), you have just increased the wattage in the circuit by adding to the 35 watts that is already present by way of the ballast. Since voltage and wattage have a direct relationship, you don't want to use to large of a bulb because it will cause the wattage in the circuit to exceed what the +/- tolerances of the circuit is, by design.

It would help to know what I is so that you can choose the perfect bulb but there's nothing wrong with SWAG'ing on the bulb if you don't have the means to obtain exact readings.

Now as George has suggested, where can I add some more light where it would actually benefit me under the hood? I could illuminate my openings down by the BSM's since I've been wanting to do that anyway but that's probably more light than I want there. I want that to be subtle. Damn Joe, you just turned on my light bulb! Thanks a lot man!