[Z06] Shifter Alignment Pin
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: CA
Shifter Alignment Pin
Okay so I'm pulling out my MGW as it is a bit too stiff going from side to side for me. I'm going to install the stock C5Z06 shifter top that I cut an inch off of and rethreaded into a C6Z06 shifter box. Here is a pic
With my MGW **** on
I want to make sure I have it aligned properly, so that I don't have problems getting into 1st and 2nd like I did with the C6 shfiter. So what do I need to do with the alignment pin and what else do I need to look at, to make sure I get the neutral alignment perfect?
Thanks for all of the help guys, and I'll let you know how this Frankenstsin project feels once it is installed
With my MGW **** on
I want to make sure I have it aligned properly, so that I don't have problems getting into 1st and 2nd like I did with the C6 shfiter. So what do I need to do with the alignment pin and what else do I need to look at, to make sure I get the neutral alignment perfect?
Thanks for all of the help guys, and I'll let you know how this Frankenstsin project feels once it is installed
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
If you are just installing the top part of the shifter shown, and have not removed the base, you have not changed the shifter alignment.
You only need the pin to lock the shifter in neutral if you remove the shifter shaft between the shifter housing and the transmission.
However, if the alignment was not right before you removed the shifter, it should not hurt to check.
You use the pin to lock the upper part of the shifter to the housing, then tighten the nut on the shaft coming out the back of the housing. You may need to adjust the housing in the tunnel to fine tune exactly where the shifter shaft attaches, before you tighten the nut.
There are other posts on centering the housing to optimize full engagement of 1st and 2nd gear positions.
You only need the pin to lock the shifter in neutral if you remove the shifter shaft between the shifter housing and the transmission.
However, if the alignment was not right before you removed the shifter, it should not hurt to check.
You use the pin to lock the upper part of the shifter to the housing, then tighten the nut on the shaft coming out the back of the housing. You may need to adjust the housing in the tunnel to fine tune exactly where the shifter shaft attaches, before you tighten the nut.
There are other posts on centering the housing to optimize full engagement of 1st and 2nd gear positions.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; May 17, 2008 at 12:10 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 33
From: Not on either liberal coast.
Last year I finally relented and decided to change my oem C5/Z06 shifter. Mind you, I was perfectly happy with the oem shifter which was shortened and had a HURST **** on it.
After much research I decided to go with the vibration dampened B&M RACING "Sport" shifter. I found an almost new one from another CF member who didn't like it because it was difficult for him to get into gear. He thought it was the fault of the shifter.
I did the R&R using the alignment pin, replacing only the shifter, not the box beneath.
The shifter works flawless for me, which I contribute to the use of the alignment pin.
It's your car to do with as you please.
After much research I decided to go with the vibration dampened B&M RACING "Sport" shifter. I found an almost new one from another CF member who didn't like it because it was difficult for him to get into gear. He thought it was the fault of the shifter.
I did the R&R using the alignment pin, replacing only the shifter, not the box beneath.
The shifter works flawless for me, which I contribute to the use of the alignment pin.
It's your car to do with as you please.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: CA
Okay so I out the MGW back in, but the shifter feels sloppy now. I used the alignment pin to line up the holes and then took out the box itself to make sure the alignment rod was correct. Now the shifter feels sloppy in gear and when I put it into 4th it feels like the pull into fourth is longer than the push into 3rd. As well as 6th feeling like the shifter does not go in all the way and it trying to spit back out almost. Any tips on how to make sure the alignment is right? I tried my best but I know something must be wrong. ANY HELP AT THIS POINT WOULD BE GREAT!!!
