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Old May 19, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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I decided to paint my stock wheels and calipers on my 00frc. I figured while I am doing it I may as well bleed the brakes with new fluid and change out my clutch fluid as well but I have a few questions. Is the corvette able to be gravity bled through the abs module? Also dot4 is the recommended brake fluid for the brakes and clutch correct? any other tips/tricks you can think of that may help me while doing this please let me know. Thanks
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Old May 19, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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Old May 19, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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Old May 20, 2008 | 04:23 AM
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Dot 3 is the recommended fluid type but you can use dot 4. Dont bleed it through the abs module, just blled the brakes normally after you change out the fluid in the res. starting at the pass rear tire.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Don
Dot 3 is the recommended fluid type but you can use dot 4. Dont bleed it through the abs module, just blled the brakes normally after you change out the fluid in the res. starting at the pass rear tire.
I guess what I am trying to say is if I gravity bleed the brakes starting at the rr and let say a cup of fluid drain out (while continually refilling the m/c obviosly ) will the old fluid come out of the abs module and be replaced with new fluid or does it just hold the old fluid in it until its activated?
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Old May 20, 2008 | 07:24 PM
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Hi There,
If you are gravity bleeding then the answer is the fluid will remain in the in the abs module as electrical power is required to open & close the valves.I bled my brakes using Gm brake fluid p/n12377967.clutch fluid Gm p/n 88958860(dot4) Your car is on jacks now.Thats a good time to do it & you can sit on a stool while your assistant operates the brake pedal.Make sure the 1/4" plastic tubing is tight on the bleeder valve & remains submerged in fluid at the other end.I used a paper metal clip attached to the end of the plastic hose to keep it submerged. I used a 1 gal. milk container with the top cut off about 3" below the neck.Normally 4 or 5 pedal pumps per brake & the fluid will be clear.Keep a close watch on the fluid level on the master cylinder. The proper bleeding sequence is rr,rl,lr,rf. This also a good time to check your drive axle boots and axle nuts.Torque on the nuts is 118 ft.lbs.on the front & rear. 33mm socket required. Wheel lug nut torque is 100ft.lbs.Use a star pattern to tighten & do it in 25lb increments until you reach 100 ft.lbs.We don't want any cracked spokes.
As far as the clutch fluid I used a windex spray pump to remove the fluid & then pumped the clutch pedal about 25 times & then added fresh fluid repeated this process until the fluid was clear.I used about 3/4 of the bottle until my fluid was clear.Have plenty of rags around the master cylinders in case you spill fluid as either fluid will remove paint.BTW; brake caliber bolt torque is 33ft. lbs. 10mm box wrench required to open & close the brake bleeder valve
I hope this helps you.
robsc501

Last edited by robsc501; May 20, 2008 at 07:38 PM. Reason: additional info.
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