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Well, I finally swapped the bushing in the torque tube for a piece of mind. I only did this becuase I am swapping the MM6/4.10 for M12/3.42. With the HP I'm putting down, 4.10's were too much. After the test drive, IMHO this is the best combo (Z06 have this set up). I did the job at a friend's house with a lift. It took us about 6 hours taking out time from start to finish.
I want to thank Fartpipe (Bruce) and Tony (ajg1915) for helping me with the TT stuff.
All my parts in the car.
Trannie and rear
Cradle is out.
Then the TT/trans/rear.
TT is seperated from trans.
Pics with old bushing (not bad, better than I thought).
New front bushing (this is BMW part) and new billet rear bushing.
I'm getting ready to do a tranny rebuild in my C5z MN12. Do I need to replace the torque tube bushings? How do I know if I have a problem?
Tony is correct. I did mine becuase it was good insurance while I was in there. And as suspected the bushings were cracked. I replaced my front one with the BMW part and the rear with a billet piece. If you do any type of racing I would strongly advise doing this. Also, the bushings do come apart with age. Do a search, there was a thread where the bushing actually came apart and caused driveline vibrations.
We are pulling the driveline tonight so I will do an inspection then. The car is an 02 with 23k miles on it. I do use it for HPDE / track days!
Is there a particular reason to do rubber up front and billet in rear? vs all rubber or all billet?
I did the same set up that Farpipe did. He runs 11.02 @ 126 with ET streets I think. Anyway, you do need the rubber bushing to dampen some of the vibration in the driveline. If your car was all out racecar, no need for the rubber bushing and can go billet pieces for both ends. I'll PM you my number if you need any help during the process. I love this forum, Tony and Bruce were great help when I did mine last week.
I just put an LS7 clutch/flywheel in my '02 a couple of weeks ago. Took the propeller/drive shaft out of the torque tube to inspect it. Everything looked almost new in there so I didn't bother replacing the couplers at that time.
I do have a question however, how did you remove the bolts that hold the couplers? Didn't appear to be a whole lot of room to work with the bolts and according to the shop manuals, if I remember correctly, the bolts are held in with some lock-tite or threadlock.
I just put an LS7 clutch/flywheel in my '02 a couple of weeks ago. Took the propeller/drive shaft out of the torque tube to inspect it. Everything looked almost new in there so I didn't bother replacing the couplers at that time.
I do have a question however, how did you remove the bolts that hold the couplers? Didn't appear to be a whole lot of room to work with the bolts and according to the shop manuals, if I remember correctly, the bolts are held in with some lock-tite or threadlock.
You are correct. They are held in there with blue lock-tite. We had to use 500 FT LBS air impact gun to get them out. Of course I used lock-tite when I installed them. BTW there is more room to get to the bolts than what the picture shows.
I just put an LS7 clutch/flywheel in my '02 a couple of weeks ago. Took the propeller/drive shaft out of the torque tube to inspect it. Everything looked almost new in there so I didn't bother replacing the couplers at that time.
I do have a question however, how did you remove the bolts that hold the couplers? Didn't appear to be a whole lot of room to work with the bolts and according to the shop manuals, if I remember correctly, the bolts are held in with some lock-tite or threadlock.
You have to take one side at a time off.
Make sure you mark where the couplers are joined and these pieces are balanced just like a clutch and if you screw it up you might get some vibrations.
Also there are arrows on the couplers as to which way the are suppose to go on the sides of the rubber disc couplers.
You are correct. They are held in there with blue lock-tite. We had to use 500 FT LBS air impact gun to get them out. Of course I used lock-tite when I installed them. BTW there is more room to get to the bolts than what the picture shows.
The trick is to apply heat from a heat gun to warm the loctitie and they'll come out pretty easy with a air gun.
Use a wire brush and clean the threads up real nice before applying loctite and retorqueing.
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