My 98 coupe with 15,000 miles has never had it changed. The manual says to only change it at 100K miles, or if there is any leakage. It does not specify a time period, only the aforementioned. Is that a realistic way to go, or should the age be taken into consideration? I also have the original spark plugs. Would there be a noticeable change in performance replacing them? The car is stored in the winter. When I do drive it is driven hard. That can be reflected by the fact that my average MPG is around 10-11. It's just a toy that is used when I'm in the mood to drive it.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

 

I'm going to assume you are talking about an M6,,and if it is I'd say go ahead and change the tranny fluid. It's pretty easy and I would imagine by now just through age it's getting kinda funky. Mine had about 55 or 56K and it was Nasty,and it was 2 years younger than yours. As I said it's pretty easy to do,pull the plug drain put it back in pull the fill plug and (this is the hardest part) refill till it dribbles out the fill hole! I'd recommend Royal Purple Syncro Max(safe for the older trannys).Plug is a toss up. Again it wouldn't hurt,but not a necessity. You MAY get a little better performance just because YOU can verify the gap of each plug.when I changed mine (again about 56k mi.) I'm assuming they were the originals,,and the gaps were ALL OVER THE PLACE,, and all were from a little too wide to way too wide. Put fresh Delco Iridiums and new wires and on mine it REALLY woke up.IF they were as careless on your plugs you might see some benefit as well.With the wonder of computer controlled ignition the car run good,,but not up to it's potential. When I posted the results of my plug and wire install a member chimed in stating he did a dyno run with his old plugs(about 38Kmi) and the dyno computer indicated the ECM ws pulling 7 deg of timing out. Fresh plugs another dyno pull,,dyno read full timing and he gained 11 hp! You never know!! Bottom line I would do the fluid change for sure,, and probably (if it were me) do the plugs as well(after finding the wild gap variation in mine) The MPG you are getting is probably related to "enthusiastic" driving more than anything else!!

 

I have an A4, no leakage, and works fine.
As far as the MPG, the go pedal spends a lot of time on the floor.
11 hp is definitely WORTH IT!

 

I know what you mean,,I manage to behave myself MOST of the time(I drive the car a LOT!!) but sometimes it's just TOO irresistible!!!The sound the rush.Over 5000(working on 6000) in 7 months and only one 240 mi and one 1100 mi trip,,so I'm in it a lot!!

 

I want to flush the fluid in my A4 can't figure out how without dropping the pan and then you don't get a complete refill.

 

Which brings me to the actual question.
Is it truly a 100K and nothing to do with the fluids age? If there is no problem, just leave it alone?

 

Change it, it's inexpensive.

 

F#$K no, My F150 service manual says the same..No required fluid changes due till 100K, Then at 82K, started downshifting HARD..AAMCO pulled it apart, Trans fluid burnt, parts damaged..$3200 later..Auto trans fluid should be Flushed, changed at regular intervals..Duhh, makes sense to me now, would you run your oil that long??? Fluids, contaminents, age, wear happens..just my experience..Tom

 

By the way Stevie B. we have the same car. Therefore, nice car!

 

EXACTLY, by the time you hit 100K you are LONG out of warranty....and that's JUST what the mfgrs want..Job security for their service departments....
I change my auto tranny fluid every 30K miles...I do my own mechanic work, so it's no biggie for me.....

BTW, chaning the fluid and filter in an A4 is simple....Drop the pan, replace the filter and gasket...Refill through the side fill hole on the pan til it runs out, START the car, run it thru the gears, put it back in park, continue to add fluid until it runs out the hole...replace the fill plug....NOTE: Be CERTAIN final fill is done while the engine is running and the tranny is in PARK..

 

A word of caution. Always make sure you CAN LOOSEN the FILL plug before you drain the oil. Sometimes they will not come loose. I used to own a transmission shop, so don't ask me how I know! Second, I have always used 50,000 miles as an interval for any autos. When you drop the pan, there should be only a SMALL amount of residue in the pan. If the fluid smells burnt and is a dark color, you're not far from an overhaul. Replacing the fluid and filter and/or additives will NOT cure a burnt transmission. Be sure and remove the "O" ring seal up in the tranny, it often does not come out with the filter neck. Don't try to stick a second one in. Heat is the number 1 cause of transmission failure. Truck or car, NEVER tow anything with the transmission in overdrive.

 

I would go ahead and change the fluid. Small price to pay for the peace of mind.

 

I don’t even own a jack. I need to have this done by a shop. How about the rear end fluid (differential)? I know I have been around here for a long time, but that 100K transmission fluid change never concerned me. I just went with what the manual stated. I would think they would both need to be changed. Is this something to be considered as well?

 

Yes, I recommend doing the diff at the same time as the tranny....Dont forget the posi-additive....I use two 4 ounce bottles of additive instead of the one that GM recommends...Ive had better luck using two....I also use ONLY the GM synthetic diff lube...Pricey at $25 a quart (you'll need two quarts), but Ive had the best luck with it vs the run-of-the-mill $5 a quart stuff....There HAS to be a reason it's 5 times as expensive..

 

CHANGE IT

It is 10 years old......no matter the miles

Dealer done

Transmission Flush 162.75
Coolant Flush 126.21
Differential Fluid 47.45
Fuel Filter 105.04