Had a ball yesterday changing plugs. O the "Land of a Thousand cuts", Never could work well with Mech gloves so my hands feel like I have a thousand papercuts.
Took a couple of hours as I'm old and my back needed a few breaks.
The old plugs looked halfway decent. From history on the LPE build I'd say they had 65 grand on them. They were like new.
I do have to admit that the new ones make a pretty good difference though regarding acceleration from a dead stop. there is NO hesitation at all.

 

There is no greater satisfaction than a job well done!

The Vettes are easier to change than the LS1 F-bodies

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Try a double swivel spark plug socket next time... It means less cuts...

http://www.toolfetch.com/Category--H...-SK33303.shtml

 

a bit pricey for a uni-tasker.

a 3/8 drive flex head ratchet worked well for me

 

I always remove the coil packs along with moving the AIR piping and brake booster line on the driver's side to make access easier and minimize cuts. Takes far less time that way. I also have the Snap-on double-swivel socket.

 

Did mine last weekend. Arms are allmost healed up. and the pain all most gone. I save the drivers side back one last. The gaps in old plugs were really big. Runs better now.

 

I don't have that problems with aftermarket headers.

 

Double swivel makes the job easier and I use a small piece of rubber hose to reinstall the new plugs. It gives you a great feel when threading the plugs.

Chuck

 

Same here,,plugs LOOKED good,,but gaps were WAY wide and all over the place.Ran from the.060s to .080s!! .040 on the new ones and wow!! I just use the stubby extension to hold onto and start by hand as csexton uses the short hose.

 

When I changed mine, the real PITA was the #7 plug - but with a few swivel sockets, got it done. Those heat shields do make for some fun times getting things done.

 

Try changing them on an old Shelby GT500. One of these days I'll post photos. It's enough to point out that the shop manual instructions tell you to remove the motor mount pivot bolt on the driver's side, jack the engine over to place a 2x4 the wide way inside the mount, and lower it back. Change the plugs on the left bank, lower the engine, replace the bolt, and repeat for the right side.

At least number 1 is easy - it's up front on the passenger side, next to the battery. 2, 3, 6, and 7 are right next to the shock towers, pointing in, and obstructed by the smog (Thermactor) plumbing. 8 is under the brake booster. 5 is behind the power steering pump - not too bad, but a little tight. Sort of like 7 on the Vette. 4 is down under the A/C housing if you have A/C, and is just a little worse than number 5.

Every time I get aggravated with working on the C5, I go look for a project on the old muscle car. Puts it all in perspective.

The use of multiple swivels and a piece of fuel or emissions hose is an old trick for the big block Mustang guys. Back when, one of my friends with a Camaro used to give me lots of grief for the way Ford designed their front suspension. The Camaro was always easier to work on. Of course, what do you expect from a front suspension designed in about 1960 for a Falcon with a 260?

 

Took me about 8 hours to do plugs and wires in my LT1 Z28


Absolute nightmare

 

Good to know that they are doable,I had people tell me the were to hard for just anyone to replace.

 

But I only remove the coil packs, then the plugs come out fine with most of the typical backyard mechanic tools. I did have one stick on me so used a little JB Blaster on it. Put anti sieze on the new plugs for sure.
OGC5