I just changed the plugs and wires. The old one were unbelieveably bad. Half the wires broke when pulling them off. I needed a breaker bar just to break the plugs loose. When I pulled the plugs they were so warn down they were at least .60 and up. Unbelieveable. The computer must have made some serious adjustments. I was planning to change them a little earlier but did not take presidence since the car was running fine. Took the car for a little cruise with the wife last night by the beach and it was running so good. I have 2 questions.

1 - Does the computer make such compensations?

2 - If so how long for the computer to re-adjust back to normal?

 

Were they still oem platinum plugs? i believe .060 is still within factory range. if they are copper plugs then yes i think thats high. Im .050 with NGK TR55s. Then again it may also depend on the brand you are using

 

They we AC plugs # 481 on the plug. They were higher then .60. Man those were hard to get out. Surprised I didn't break any of them.

 

Which plugs and wires did you replace them with? Did you notice any improvements?

 

The computer on the car should adjust once you drive for a while. New plugs and wires can make a big difference if the old ones were shot.

 

I put Duralast wires in with AC Iridiums. I wanted AC wires but A.Zone, P.Boys were out.

Oh yeah, There is nice response. In the first 4 miles or so the idle seems to fluxuate a little but everything smoothed out shortly there after. Nice response. My wife was in the car so I could not " PLAY " with her to hard to really she what she's got.

 

Oh, And she seems to light em up a lot easy now. I have to be careful now.

 

New plugs and wires will make a big difference and yes the computer will readjust to the new go parts you just installed and for the better

 

Hi. Noticed from your profile that you have a 98. Was this the first plug change? (I'm about to do the same on my 02 @ 47k)

 

Judging by how hard it was and the brand plugs in the car I would venture to say they probably were the originals. The next change should go way better since using the anti seize goo. I would start with the drivers rear first. That's the toughest but not to bad ( IF MY PLUGS WHERE EASIER TO REMOVE ). Way way way easier then a C4 to change.

 

Hi There Tonycar4a:
Replacing plugs & wires.Good!
I would use the A/C Iridium plugs#41-985, already gapped to .040. Check your wires if they are reading close to 700 ohms, then install new ones. If they are reading 300-400 ohms do not replace them.The drivers side # 8 cylinder is the hardest to get at. Pop off your fuel rail covers.Where the AIR connector is remove the 2 10mm bolts(torque is 15 ft.lbs.) that hold the s/steel line to the block. Then swing this up & secure with duck tape or a tie-off.I used a long needle nose pliers to remove the wires twist & pull at the same time. To prevent dropping plugs into the manifold cavities stuff with rags or make sure your plug socket has the rubber insert inside.With the new plug installed in the 5/8"socket I took some rounded tooth picks & inserted them in the four little cracks & then broke them off. test: Turned the plug upside down & the plug didn't fall out of the socket.Use q-tips to put the anti-seize on the threads does a nice job with out making a mess or getting on the electrode.Use the silicone grease on both ends of the wire. Don't be afraid to put a lot on( especially the s/plug end) as this will make the next wire removal easy.Torque all plugs to 11ft.lbs.If you don't like getting your hands all cut-up use the mechanix gloves.Tip: Start all the plugs by hand. Re-use your heat shields.No need for a pcm flash. I used a plain 3/8" rachet & a standard 3" extension.
I hope this helps you.
robsc501

 

Nice write up. I'm ready to do my plugs and wires. Doing anything next week? Just kidding.

I installed a SLP Blackwing today. One of the easiest jobs I've ever done,

 

Hi 77Bluel82:
We just came back from a weeks vacation on 8/11/08.We were at Wildwood Crest,N.J.Nice area. (162 miles one way) You should have told me about the plug change.lol Take your time & have fun, use the gloves & you will not have any trouble.Put a nice even coat of anti-seize on the threads.If you have large hands slip on a piece of rubber hose over the white end of the plug to start by hand.How many miles on your vette?Where is Branchburg located?
Have a good weekend.
robsc501

 

And very important work on a cold engine.

Were the pucks still in place on the plugs?

 

Hi JET-JOCK:
Thanks! Good point about the cold engine. We wouldn't want any valve warpage.I guess you are talking about(pucks) the metal heat shields. Yes they were still attached.I re-installed them.
Have a good weekend.
robsc501

 

Actually I'm referring the aluminum block and installing/removing plugs. Two different types of metal in contact with each other. Another important factor that people tend to skip is proper torque on the plugs. Heat transfer occurs as designed at proper torque. Anti-seize as mentioned.

Pucks. On AC-Delco platinum OEM plugs there is a small (hockey puck) disc of platinum affixed to the strap. In many cases these pucks either fall off or burn off, thus leaving a much greater gapped plug plus not knowing at what cycle it fell off.

 

Nice job! I am about to venture into the engine bay to do this very thing

So it was easy squeezie, yeah?!

 

Good job getting it done and saved a little money

Chuck

 

Yes. Unbolt the A.I.R valve on the drivers side (2 - 10mm bolts), makes a WORLD of difference. I can change all 8 in about 35 minutes.

 

I need to get these done too.

-Alex