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When I change my oil I run the front up on Rhino Ramps, put my 2 ton floor jack under the center of the rear crossmember (covering the 8" diameter jack pad with a piece of heavy carpet). I let the rear down on two jack stands. I've been doing this for over 4 yrs. with no ill effects. Have I been lucky? I know this isn't the proper procedure. I'm wondering if anyone's experienced a cracked cradle, or any other problems lifting the rear this way?
Last edited by Vettman 1; Nov 21, 2008 at 11:09 PM.
You are actually supposed to support the rear cross member at two places.
I used to do what you are doing.
What I do now, is use a 2X6 treated (they are sturdier) piece of lumber under the rear support.
I also set the rear tires up on a second set of rhino ramps. This gets the car level for checking (and filling) trans and differential fluids. Plus it is safe to get under car. I call it a poor man's lift.
When I change my oil I run the front up on Rhino Ramps, put my 2 ton floor jack under the center of the rear crossmember (covering the 8" diameter jack pad with a piece of heavy carpet). I let the rear down on two jack stands. I've been doing this for over 4 yrs. with no ill effects. Have I been lucky? I know this isn't the proper procedure. I'm wondering if anyone's experienced a cracked cradle, or any other problems lifting the rear this way?
If your using Rhino ramps on the front I'd recommend making sure the front wheels are as far up against the front stopper on the ramps and then placing a small piece of wood behind the rear of the front tires.
Reason being, that when lifting the rear with the floor jack, it is possible for the car to roll backwards off the rhino ramps (given enough incline and momentem). I've read about this happening to fellow members. I've made a couple of small wheel chocks out of wood and run a couple of small bolts down to the heads into the bottom of the wood chock. Drilled two small holes into the Rhino ramps to keep them in place behind the rear of the front tires. Just a little more insurance to keep the car from rolling backwards.
Yep, me too! Also first drive the car up onto wooden ramps made of stacked 2" x 12"s, which then allows room to put jack under front first, and then rear, crossmembers and use jack stands on all four corners under the lifting pads under the front and rear crossmembers..........very stable and solid. I cut out wooden circles made of plywood, that fit inside the jack cradle and secured one to each of the front and rear wooden lift pads. Doing so, puts the lift pad in the center of the jack for proper balance and security every time!
I used to lift the rear end with just a 2 x 6 and the jack in the middle, but I recently modified the 2 x 6 with a couple of 1/4" pads on each end to make sure the lifting force is not concentrated in the center of the cross member of the suspension.
The casting was not perfectly flat, so I even removed a little wood in some areas to make sure the load is evenly distributed.
When I change my oil I run the front up on Rhino Ramps, put my 2 ton floor jack under the center of the rear crossmember (covering the 8" diameter jack pad with a piece of heavy carpet). I let the rear down on two jack stands. I've been doing this for over 4 yrs. with no ill effects. Have I been lucky? I know this isn't the proper procedure. I'm wondering if anyone's experienced a cracked cradle, or any other problems lifting the rear this way?
For oil change, I jack up left front only; slide shallow catch pan under car; remove drain plug and filter, then carefully lower car to finish draining oil.
Jack car back up, replace drain plug and filter, remove pan. Lower car again and put in new oil.
For oil change, I jack up left front only; slide shallow catch pan under car; remove drain plug and filter, then carefully lower car to finish draining oil.
Jack car back up, replace drain plug and filter, remove pan. Lower car again and put in new oil.
Takes just a few minutes.
You don't mention using a jack stand to back up your jack. If not, I would!