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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:49 PM
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From: Camp Hill PA
Default Dannmar D7 owners, please step inside.

Alright, I custom designed and built my own garage over the summer. I am finishing up the electric install as we speak and I went to the trouble of running a 240 volt line because I had plans of adding a lift. I have pretty much decided to go with the Dannmar D7 due to cost and size limitations. I am reading in the description that this lift is 110/220 volt. Can any of you that purchased this lift please clarify the 110/220?? Is it a single motor/pump that can be wired either way, or must you specify when ordering which one you want?

I figure since I paid 265 bucks for the heavier 240 cable, I might as well take advantage of the extra juice and go 220V on the motor/pump.

Also....to any of you that added tracks to raise your garage door, where did you buy your track extensions, and were they pretty much a universal design?


Thanks!
Ryan
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12
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Can't provide the answer you need, but you might try CFOT. More coverage, and many more CFBallers.
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 06:49 PM
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I dont know for sure about the DanMar but from my experience I was given the option at time of ordering of 110 or 220. I believe you will have the same option as most lift makers are using the exact same motor assembly.

I let a garage door company extend my rails. Its not as simple as just extending the rails. In my case the spring, cables and torsion bar all needed to be modified as well. The torque on the spring can be lethal so make sure you know exactly what your doing before playing with this.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 12:39 AM
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Ryan040675
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From: Camp Hill PA
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Originally Posted by SivlerBulletMike
I dont know for sure about the DanMar but from my experience I was given the option at time of ordering of 110 or 220. I believe you will have the same option as most lift makers are using the exact same motor assembly.

I let a garage door company extend my rails. Its not as simple as just extending the rails. In my case the spring, cables and torsion bar all needed to be modified as well. The torque on the spring can be lethal so make sure you know exactly what your doing before playing with this.
Yeah, I know, but thanks for the warning. I assembled everything myself so I know it will involve taking apart everything I just assembled 4 moths ago, but unfortunately I didn't consider this at the time of initial assembly. I just wanted to get the thing done before I ran out of vacation time. It really won't be bad though. I just have to release the tension at the torque tube ratchet, jack the entire assembly up 2 feet and add in the rail extensions below.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 12:53 AM
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From: Cambridge Illinois
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My Dannmar came prewired for 110. However, it can be rewired for 220. I also have a Bend Pak and it was not wired at all. It was up to me to wire it and I went 220.

I stayed with the existing 110 on the Dannmar be cause I am lazy and my son's S10 street rod project is up on it and will be there for years at the rate he is going on it. He told me his goal is 2022. So, I don't even have it plugged in. His mother suggested that he pay half of the cost for the lift and he did.

Many electric motors can be wired either way. I wired my air compressor for 220 also, but I could have went 110. I put the electric service in the garage myself and wired up several 220 outlets.

You can just see some of the S10 in the back ground of my avatar. It is red with white lower color.

Last edited by lh4x4; Dec 2, 2008 at 12:56 AM.
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