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Questions about my Vette small problems

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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 10:53 PM
  #1  
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Default Questions about my Vette small problems

hey guys thank you in advance for your responses it is greatly appreciated!

So a few problems and questions I was wondering if you all could help me with

1. when i turn my airconditioner on it works fine but a very loud noise comes from my engine area. If i turn the AC off but keep the fan on in the car the noise goes away. So its something to do with the AC when its on. Any idea?

2. I went to EZ lube and they asked me when i last had these done and i cant remember. I went through my history and i have no documents of when i had them done. I'm assuming that they need to be done. Do you recommend me doing them all at once or do I not need to do them until a certain amount of mileage?

Currently the mileage of my vette is 75,000

Cooling System (drain, flush & refill) recommended every 60 months or 150,000 miles
Drive Belts (Inspect and adjust) recommnended ever 60,000 miles
Rear Differential (Inspect fluid level) recommended every 6 months

3. I have a very very slow leak in my front left rim. I know its not the tire because i had it with my old tires and I have it with my new tire. Is there anything that can be done? not a big deal I just top the air every 3 weeks. Is there any simple thing that ca be done?

4. Long story but my transmission gears were replaced. I purchased a new LUK clutch. Ever since I had it replace its very very touchy. If I'm not at between 1500 and 2000 rpm it wont go into second gear and its always Notchy especially in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Is this normal?

5. is downshift bad for the gears? even if its done between 2500 and 1000 rpm. I always contemplate downshifting to save the brakes. but if its hard on the transmission/clutch then Id rather wear the brakes down


oh wow I didnt realize how much information I am asking from you. thank you so much for your help!
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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I can't help with all of these, but I'll try with some.

Your rear differential doesn't need to be checked unless you notice it leaking, otherwise, don't bother. You can inspect the belts yourself. No need for adjustment unless you notice a problem.

As far as the coolant, have it flushed and changed immediately at a shop you trust. I'd have it done every 3 years or 36k miles afterward. I purchased my C5 almost a year ago, I had the coolant changed within 4 days.

While we're on the subject of general maintenance it's not a bad idea to check the age of your battery, too, if you didn't install it yourself.

As far as the wheels, can you tell if your wheel has been damaged in anyway?

Last edited by 71vetteinva; Dec 26, 2008 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:20 PM
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I recommend that you stay away from EZ lube and find a reputable shop with corvette experience. You live in LA and I am sure that a local car club can find you a place to go other than an EZ lube.
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:31 PM
  #4  
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5. is downshift bad for the gears? even if its done between 2500 and 1000 rpm. I always contemplate downshifting to save the brakes. but if its hard on the transmission/clutch then Id rather wear the brakes down

Brakes are a lot cheaper to replace than anything that has to do with a tranny, I just replaced the clutch on my '00, so trust me I know.
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:40 PM
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Lots of help on this forum if you need more help the search is you friend.
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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You should flush and fill the cooling system, and you can inspect the belts yourself (there is no adjustment, the belt tensioners take care of that) and if they look worn, brittle or dried out replace them. Look at the hoses also. As far as the air leak in the tire find out where it's leaking. Remove the tire, lay it flat and get some soap and water and and pour it on the tire at the bead of the tire, (check all the way around the rim and on both sides) also check around the stem of the tire pressure monitor and pour soapy water into the stem to see if the schrader valve is leaking. If the schrader valve is leaking just replace it. If it's leaking around the tire pressure monitor try to tighten up the nut. If the tire is leaking around the rim you will have to take the tire off and see if you can clean up the rim to get it to seal better and thats not a guarantee that will fix it. The rim might be bent a little.
I would take the transmission back it's not right, it shouldn't be doing that.
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by waddsy
1. when i turn my airconditioner on it works fine but a very loud noise comes from my engine area. If i turn the AC off but keep the fan on in the car the noise goes away. So its something to do with the AC when its on. Any idea?

2.
Currently the mileage of my vette is 75,000

Cooling System (drain, flush & refill) recommended every 60 months or 150,000 miles
Drive Belts (Inspect and adjust) recommnended ever 60,000 miles
Rear Differential (Inspect fluid level) recommended every 6 months

3. I have a very very slow leak in my front left rim. I know its not the tire because i had it with my old tires and I have it with my new tire. Is there anything that can be done? not a big deal I just top the air every 3 weeks. Is there any simple thing that ca be done?

5. is downshift bad for the gears? even if its done between 2500 and 1000 rpm. I always contemplate downshifting to save the brakes. but if its hard on the transmission/clutch then Id rather wear the brakes down
1. Sounds like you may have a belt or compressor problem.

2. If you don't know the coolant was changed in the last 5 years then get it changed right away. Use DexCool and you can go for another 5 years or 150K miles. I do this on all my cars.
Check the belts and the diff levels. Doesn't hurt to check something.

3. You could have an air leak around the valve stem on your tire pressure sensor. The O rings on the sensor can be replaced but you will have to dismount and remount the tire to do this.

5. The strongest subsystem on your car is the brake system. The engine and drivetrain are no where near as strong. You may reduce brake wear by doing engine braking but the cost savings of replacing brake hardware every 40K miles Vs every 50K miles doesn't even come close to the cost of replacing/repairing an engine or transmission. There hasn't been any need of doing engine braking on any cars made since the late 60s.

Bill
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:06 AM
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great thank you guys.
I know its better to go to a trusted club garage but i watch EZ Lube do the work and they have individual oil containers and they let it drain and they change the filter. So i have confidence they are trustworthy since im watching them through the window lol.

again thank you for the help. no more downshifting!
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:54 AM
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I agree with everyone so far, but I'll add that you may want to change the tranny fluid. Buy a good sythetic and bring it to the EZ Lube. Also do the same for the rear end. Bring a good synthetic and only GM brand rear end addative and have the EZ Lube do it for you. This will more than likely be the last time you'll ever need to do these again, unless you run the car hard regularly.

On the A/C, it sound like the a/c clutch ma be going bad.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 07:49 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 81c3
I agree with everyone so far, but I'll add that you may want to change the tranny fluid. Buy a good sythetic and bring it to the EZ Lube. Also do the same for the rear end. Bring a good synthetic and only GM brand rear end addative and have the EZ Lube do it for you. This will more than likely be the last time you'll ever need to do these again, unless you run the car hard regularly.

On the A/C, it sound like the a/c clutch ma be going bad.
Sounds like compressor or clutch assy.

Last edited by ecoman; Dec 27, 2008 at 07:50 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:52 AM
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The air leak is likely an incorrectly tightened valve stem on your tire pressure monitor.
BUT be careful, they are aluminum and easily stripped. There are 2 different torque specs.
One for 97-2000
and 2001-2004
NOTE: these are INCH POUNDS and NOT foot pounds.
It is 62 in lbs for GEN II, 2001 and up (from 2002 Shop Manual).

106 in lbs for GEN I 1997-2000 (from 1998 Shop Manual).

GEN I used an o-ring, O-ring. Get it at Home Depot, Hardware department O-ring size #9. Cost under a dime.

GEN II use a rubber gasket.
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