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cleaning the engine bay

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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:03 AM
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Default cleaning the engine bay

How and what do you all use to clean the engine bay? Just wondering ask my bay needs a good cleaning.
Thanks
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:41 AM
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I like to use my power washer. I put the car up on my Kwiklift to get the underside and the suspension parts also. If you dont have a lift of any kind, a floor jack and creeper will get the job done too. I've done this with all my Vettes (6 to date) and never had any problems. Compressed air is nice to have also for drying everything off. The nice thing is you really only need to do it once, then maintain it with regular wipedowns.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:48 AM
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That definitely won't work for a daily driver. I've taken hours before to clean things up for a show and then within a couple of days it looks like I never even touched it.

There have been several threads in the last couple of years here on CF regarding this. Try doing a search and maybe you'll find them.

Alternatively, there's a pretty decent video on Adam's Polishes website showing a simple way to get 90% clean with some spray cleaners and your garden hose (while keeping the engine running of course).

Unfortunately, if you drive it alot and want to look like you don't, there's no substitute for elbow grease, determination, and persistence.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bell
That definitely won't work for a daily driver. I've taken hours before to clean things up for a show and then within a couple of days it looks like I never even touched it.

There have been several threads in the last couple of years here on CF regarding this. Try doing a search and maybe you'll find them.

Alternatively, there's a pretty decent video on Adam's Polishes website showing a simple way to get 90% clean with some spray cleaners and your garden hose (while keeping the engine running of course).

Unfortunately, if you drive it alot and want to look like you don't, there's no substitute for elbow grease, determination, and persistence.

Adams In & Out spray once ithe engine is clean is GREAT stuff!


But 409, Simple Green or some other cleaner and a pile of rags to get it all clean is what is really takes! Then stay on top of it after that!
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 01:02 AM
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I remove the FRCs and the airbridge/filterbox. Use a rubber band and a baggie to seal the Throttle Body.

Spray the whole mess down with simple green.


Let it sit until it almost starts to dry, then nail it all again.

Once it is all really soaking, use a long bristled brush to work over all the surfaces.

rinse with a garden hose. NO HIGH PRESSURE. The electric conectors in the engine bay are designed to be water tight under normal circumstances, but they are not designed to withstand high pressure.

Dry with a towel

once dry, spray the entire engine bay with 303 protectant. remove excess with a towel.

Clean FRCs and air bridge with 303 and reinstall. Use a vacuum pump to suck the water from under the intake manifold. (I use a mighty vac hand pump) It would evaporate eventually, but I can't stand to know it's there.

Done!

Last edited by TraceZ; Dec 27, 2008 at 01:05 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bell
That definitely won't work for a daily driver. I've taken hours before to clean things up for a show and then within a couple of days it looks like I never even touched it.
.
It will work for any engine. The idea is to get the bigger part of the job done with the pressure from the machine. You can get the wand into crevices and hard to reach places much easier than by hand. Of course you need to wipe down by hand regularly as I said. I have done this a million times on different cars, my Vettes and even my daily driver pick up. Everyone who sees my engines always comments on their cleanliness.

Last edited by 81c3; Dec 27, 2008 at 01:06 AM.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 02:02 AM
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I do all mine by hand. I have always been worried about spaying water over all those connections.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 03:37 AM
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There is a motorcycle cleaner called S100 available at most Harley dealers. You spray it on the entire engine compartment and rinse it off with low pressure from a hose. The only part I've bothered covering is the alternator. Next I use my compressor with an air gun and blow off as much water as I can, then finish detail drying with rags or towels. You can clean the entire engine compartment in minutes and the product leaves a finish that makes everything look brand new. It is super easy to use. Just follow the instructions and you won't have any problems. Don't go crazy spraying water into any electrical components. I have not had any problems with my car running properly afterwards. Highly recommended!
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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Although my '97 is a daily driver, my engine compartment is very clean...for a daily driver. My other cars i take to the local car wash, use the degreaser all over the engine compartment, and rinse clean. It works great! I have never had an issue. It makes it look nice and better to work on, to say a lot easier to find a leak or any other issue.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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I use P21S Total Auto Wash. It does an excellent job and leaves no residue and it is safe on electrical connections. I rinse with a fine spray as to avoid blasting with a powerful stream. All I use to scrub the P21S in is a parts brush. I have used this method on all my cars for over 6 years with no problems.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:33 AM
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I spraythe hood liner and the cool engine with a 1 part simple Green, 4 parts water mixture.
I let it soak about 5 minutes and then rinse with my pressure washed on the widest fan spray setting.
I then leave the hood up and the it dry in the sun before I start the engine.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 09:55 AM
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Simple Green here. Mines not a DD so it doesn't get real dirty/oily. Works well on the hood liner too! I also spray on the rear end/ aluminum cross member. I had to scrub that a little the first time, now I always just spray a little Simple Green on that and rinse it off every time I wash the car. The back end looks like new....and it's a 98 with around 40K on it.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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Simple Green and low flow of water. Will do a good job of cleaning dust/grease off the motor. After doing that once, just keep up with it by wiping things off after every wash.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JDs00PewterCoupe
Simple Green and low flow of water. Will do a good job of cleaning dust/grease off the motor. After doing that once, just keep up with it by wiping things off after every wash.

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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 02:07 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I couldnt get my search function to work, im not sure what is up with it. So Simple Green it is as I have some in my shed. Thanks a lot guys.
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kenzo
I use P21S Total Auto Wash. It does an excellent job and leaves no residue and it is safe on electrical connections. I rinse with a fine spray as to avoid blasting with a powerful stream. All I use to scrub the P21S in is a parts brush. I have used this method on all my cars for over 6 years with no problems.
I also use P21S Total Auto Wash and I absolutely love it. Safe on the electrical and I have never had any problems in all my years of using it.



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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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DON'T DO IT>.............WATER AND CORVETTE MOTOR AND ELECTRICAL PARTS DO NOT MIX...............


I knew I shouldn't have read this thread. But I did and used a little soap and water to clean up the built up dirt. Now thanks to My wiper motor is shot.


DON'T DO IT.
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Old Dec 28, 2008 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jims79
DON'T DO IT>.............WATER AND CORVETTE MOTOR AND ELECTRICAL PARTS DO NOT MIX...............


I knew I shouldn't have read this thread. But I did and used a little soap and water to clean up the built up dirt. Now thanks to My wiper motor is shot.


DON'T DO IT.
I disagree. Modern cars are designed to be water resistant. Aside from being submerged or blasted with high pressure they should not have issues. This includes your alternator.

If your wiper motor took a dump after getting wet it could of been a complete coincidence, or it could of been due to a bad seal in the assembly that would of caused a failure at some point anyhow, you just sped it up.

The only exception I've seen is the optispark distributor on 1993-1997 LT1 engines. Do not ever get an optispark wet.
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