When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i am going to move my fathers car [c5 z06 / stock height]. i have never had mine on the trailer so this is going to be the first time loading a z06. the trailer has a slight down tail and sits ~ 14" off the ground in the rear.
A: this depicts the trailer deck and dove tail, thin line is pavement
B: this depicts the trailer and ramp extended
C: this depicts the ramp sitting ~ 3" higher on some 2" x 12" wood ramps. ~ 20" length between the 2 levels to ensure the tire gets up on the ramp before the front valance catches the next board
D: a 16 to 20' braced 2 x 12 sitting on the ramp 1/2 way up.
I personally think option C is the best best and will prevent any scraping. my father seems to think he'll need something more along the lines of option D. i'll be build option C tonight and wanted to get some feedback. things won't be smooth if we go to load his car [which is an hour from the house] and it looks like the valance will scrape.
if you lower the "jack" on the front of the trailer so it raises up the front end and lowers the rear end, i believe just using the ramps should be sufficient enough to get the car up on the trailer. So, that would be Option B. if the Z is at stock hieght, i doubt you will have any problems.
on the trailer i use, i do Option B with raising the jack in the front. my car is SLAMMED to the ground as well.
I had a trailer just like that for my AC Cobra. To keep the back from lowering as the weight is put on it, I used to block up the back (where the ramps connect) and My old ZR-1 could climb on without any extra ramps. The rubber air dam did contact, but no damage was done. Because of the shorter overhang, the C5 should be OK. But whatever method you use, be sure to block the rear, or the angles move a great deal. Also, in my case, the wheel fenders would not let me open the doors (the Cobras doors were higher), so I had to plan an exit in advance.
if you lower the "jack" on the front of the trailer so it raises up the front end and lowers the rear end, i believe just using the ramps should be sufficient enough to get the car up on the trailer. So, that would be Option B. if the Z is at stock hieght, i doubt you will have any problems.
on the trailer i use, i do Option B with raising the jack in the front. my car is SLAMMED to the ground as well.
good luck!
Aj
you know i mentioned that to the old man. i wanted to crank on the jack to bring the rear of the trailer closer to the ground if the need arises.
Originally Posted by ZR1991
I had a trailer just like that for my AC Cobra. To keep the back from lowering as the weight is put on it, I used to block up the back (where the ramps connect) and My old ZR-1 could climb on without any extra ramps. The rubber air dam did contact, but no damage was done. Because of the shorter overhang, the C5 should be OK. But whatever method you use, be sure to block the rear, or the angles move a great deal. Also, in my case, the wheel fenders would not let me open the doors (the Cobras doors were higher), so I had to plan an exit in advance.
Regards,
i have yet to measure the door height to the fender height. i expect have issues there. i will remain a bit optimistic at this point though as i was able to open the door on my slammed MR2.
I just moved my ZO6 500 miles. I jacked the trailer jack down until the truck was nearly floating.That makes the trailer lay out nearly flat .To get out of the car (the door hits the fender) we used a floor jack to lift the rear on the drivers side,got out , and let it back down. Good luck.
I store my Z06 in my enclosed trailer so I am pulling it in and out quite often. As stated in some of the previous posts, I raise the tongue height using the trailer jack and I and am able to pull in and out using just the beaver tail and ramp built into the trailer. I do drag the rubber air dam slightly when the car first starts up the ramp but it does no damage at all.
My doors will not clear the fenders but I have gotten quite good at entering and exiting the car through the window NASCAR style.
I store my Z06 in my enclosed trailer so I am pulling it in and out quite often. As stated in some of the previous posts, I raise the tongue height using the trailer jack and I and am able to pull in and out using just the beaver tail and ramp built into the trailer. I do drag the rubber air dam slightly when the car first starts up the ramp but it does no damage at all.
My doors will not clear the fenders but I have gotten quite good at entering and exiting the car through the window NASCAR style.
Wow.....so clearly your not having a drink before you pull that baby back in.
Keep in mind that the ramp that forms the "duck-tail" per of the trailer will increase its angle when the tongue is elevated with the wheel jack, which is why I did not do that when I moved my ZR-1 on the AC Cobra trailer I described. It would not handle the increased angle, and counter to my intuition, it was better with the tongue down, not elevated.the doors not clearing is harder than loading the car.
I think you will find it pretty easy when you actually do it. Most important part is it seems from your description that the doors will clear. I know that everyone who has done it probably agrees that getting in and out with the doors shut is worse than loading the car.
Like wayneinvirginia, above, I always wanted a closed trailer. Seems like that is fantastic storage if you do not have garage space. But I just had the open trailer.
Keep in mind that the ramp that forms the "duck-tail" per of the trailer will increase its angle when the tongue is elevated with the wheel jack, which is why I did not do that when I moved my ZR-1 on the AC Cobra trailer I described. It would not handle the increased angle, and counter to my intuition, it was better with the tongue down, not elevated.the doors not clearing is harder than loading the car.
I think you will find it pretty easy when you actually do it. Most important part is it seems from your description that the doors will clear. I know that everyone who has done it probably agrees that getting in and out with
any idea of the height of the doors bottom edge? just took a measurement on the MR2 and it was 8" [more clearance than i would have guessed]. my z06 is 30 minutes away in my fathers garage so i am not going to go measure right now...
If someone doesn't jump on with the answer in a few minutes, I will walk over (to a parking garage), and measure mine for you. I used to climb out the rear hatch on the ZR-1, but it just occurred to me that you need to use the window like wayneinvirginia described because the ZO6 doesn't have a hatch. Funny as I think of it.. Remember i was doing all these gymnastics with an amputated left leg (below knee), and a prosthetic leg (think I took it off). You would be surprised how good I handle the 6 speeds with that.
I get it for you if someone doesn't in a few minutes.
If someone doesn't jump on with the answer in a few minutes, I will walk over (to a parking garage), and measure mine for you. I used to climb out the rear hatch on the ZR-1, but it just occurred to me that you need to use the window like wayneinvirginia described because the ZO6 doesn't have a hatch. Funny as I think of it.. Remember i was doing all these gymnastics with an amputated left leg (below knee), and a prosthetic leg (think I took it off). You would be surprised how good I handle the 6 speeds with that.
I get it for you if someone doesn't in a few minutes.
appreciated but don't leave the house on my account. i was in the process of replying to you earlier but the electrical service just ripped off the side of the house. we are having a terrible ice storm out here. the next project is going to be underground service from the poll.
sorry to hear about your leg, though it is good to hear you didn't let it slow you down too much [jumping in and out of race cars w/ the doors closed].
No problem, I was going out to see how dirty it was anyway. I just got back to Baton Rouge from Washington State to where my daughter and her family have recently moved. I got there during the pre Christmas storms, and apparently, it is even worse now.
You in the northwest somewhere?
I usually do not comment about the leg (lost in in 1995), but the trailer incident brought back memories. I think I took of the prosthetic, threw it out, and climbed out after it. Was funny in a perverse way.
The stock height to the bottom of the door is about 9 and a quarter inches. Obviously, that varies, but that is close.
No problem, I was going out to see how dirty it was anyway. I just got back to Baton Rouge from Washington State to where my daughter and her family have recently moved. I got there during the pre Christmas storms, and apparently, it is even worse now.
You in the northwest somewhere?
I usually do not comment about the leg (lost in in 1995), but the trailer incident brought back memories. I think I took of the prosthetic, threw it out, and climbed out after it. Was funny in a perverse way.
The stock height to the bottom of the door is about 9 and a quarter inches. Obviously, that varies, but that is close.
Regards
appreciated, at least i know the door will open. i am in fairfield connecticut. i wish my camera was charged. despite all the issues it causes the ice is beautiful... some of the thinner trees look like arches. the pines are all droopy and reflect the light nicely.
The last couple of times that I've had the car on the trailer, I back it on, with the short rear on the C-5 I was able to get back far enough that I could open the door to get out, and still keep the weight over the axles on the trailer, but it was a 18' straight deck trailer, and we jacked the front of the trailer up and used longer ramps.