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Installed rear shocks on my car last night, and one of the upper bolts on the passenger side, would never get tight, just turned and turned, comes out just fine and the threads aren't messed up, and it doesn't bind up when you tighten it, so it's not acting like a stripped bolt, but it won't get tight, the other one got tight and i was able to torque it to 22ftpnds, anybody experiences this, shoud i be concerned about it?
The captive nut is welded to the frame and it sounds as if the weld failed allowing the turning. I had a similar problem on the driver's side except that the bolt wouldn't come out because the nut turned with it. I used a dremel and 1/8" diameter burr to cut out an access panel about 3" x 7" directly over the shock from the composite trunk floor so the nut could be welded back to the frame. The cut out panel was replaced with Goop adhesive and aluminum tape to hold it in place while the adhesive cured. Only a shallow cut was needed since the frame is close to the floor in this area. If the other nut ever fails then the access panel can be removed by cutting through the adhesive. I would keep an eye on the bolt that isn't torqued in case it loosens up because if it does the stresses will be placed on the other bolt and possibly ruin the shock. If you remove the shock and put the bolt back into the loose nut you can check the weld by turning the bolt and reaching through the large center hole to see if it turns with the nut. After I cut out the access panel there was enough room to put a box wrench on the nut to hold it but I welded it anyway.
The captive nut is welded to the frame and it sounds as if the weld failed allowing the turning. I had a similar problem on the driver's side except that the bolt wouldn't come out because the nut turned with it. I used a dremel and 1/8" diameter burr to cut out an access panel about 3" x 7" directly over the shock from the composite trunk floor so the nut could be welded back to the frame. The cut out panel was replaced with Goop adhesive and aluminum tape to hold it in place while the adhesive cured. Only a shallow cut was needed since the frame is close to the floor in this area. If the other nut ever fails then the access panel can be removed by cutting through the adhesive. I would keep an eye on the bolt that isn't torqued in case it loosens up because if it does the stresses will be placed on the other bolt and possibly ruin the shock. If you remove the shock and put the bolt back into the loose nut you can check the weld by turning the bolt and reaching through the large center hole to see if it turns with the nut. After I cut out the access panel there was enough room to put a box wrench on the nut to hold it but I welded it anyway.
You can use even a sledge hammer with precision bro.....
Those upper bolts call for what, 20 ft lbs or so? Define using an impact wrench with precision. Do you mean that you're just gonna hit it with the wrench for half a second? For that half a second, it's still applying way more torque to those bolts than they are made to handle. Now, I'm usually the first to say that the stereotypical Corvette owner follows things by the book too much and acts like the car is made of glass, but the suspension on this car is one thing I actually pull the torque wrench out for.
Those upper bolts call for what, 20 ft lbs or so? Define using an impact wrench with precision. Do you mean that you're just gonna hit it with the wrench for half a second? For that half a second, it's still applying way more torque to those bolts than they are made to handle. Now, I'm usually the first to say that the stereotypical Corvette owner follows things by the book too much and acts like the car is made of glass, but the suspension on this car is one thing I actually pull the torque wrench out for.
Sometimes, in a situation like this, the quick initial spin from an impact wrench will get the fastener started in the loose welded nut and it will pull in tight. The problem then belongs to whoever takes the shock out next!