F45 Switch Removal
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,062
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From: Minnesota City MN
F45 Switch Removal
I plan on changing my factory ajustable shocks and using the resistor method. I also want to remove the traction/selective ride switch plate and use a custom plate. Do I have to remove everything at once? If the switch is disconnected will I have the shock code and limit top speed? Please help.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: "It's 106 miles to Chicago, we've got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, it's dark, and
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You have a couple of choices, here. You can purchase the F45 simulators from Pfadt - you need eight of them, two per wheel. You can also find someone who is familiar with the GM Tech II tool, and have them turn off this feature in the PCM. There is also a post on here from the last few days that indicated you can go to Radio Shack and purchase some resistor and plug them in to the cables, which will have the same effect as the Pfadt sims.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Fort Wayne IN
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I had mine tuned out of the BCM and replaced the F45 panel with a base suspension panel. No issues at all.
Life Time NCM #2196
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Converse TX
Here is how I did this several years ago and still works like a champ
First go to ratshack and get two packs of the following:
Wirewound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
They look like a small block of clay with a siver wire on each end, two to a pack.
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a blue connection for the wire running from the shock. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the wire there.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the bare wire on one end and the original connector at the other end.
There are two wires inside of the black covering, and with wire and a black wire. Remove the covering from these as well to expose the two bare wires.
Solder the resistor in between the two bare wires to complete a circuit. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there as the ocmputer looks for the resistance. I used some water prrof silicone after the solder then wrapped it in duct tape.
Repeat for all four shocks. Reconnect all four wires at the blue coneection back under the car.
You will be good to go.
First go to ratshack and get two packs of the following:
Wirewound Resistors
271-132
10 watt 10 ohm
They look like a small block of clay with a siver wire on each end, two to a pack.
Underneath the car at each shock location there is a blue connection for the wire running from the shock. The wire does not unhook at the shock but if you trace the wire you will find the connector. Disconnect the wire there.
Take a pair of wire cutters and cut the wire as close to the shock as possible. You will be left with the bare wire on one end and the original connector at the other end.
There are two wires inside of the black covering, and with wire and a black wire. Remove the covering from these as well to expose the two bare wires.
Solder the resistor in between the two bare wires to complete a circuit. This will fool the computer into thinking the F45 Shocks are still there as the ocmputer looks for the resistance. I used some water prrof silicone after the solder then wrapped it in duct tape.
Repeat for all four shocks. Reconnect all four wires at the blue coneection back under the car.
You will be good to go.
